the mud will tear up s--t also just gotta learn when to stop and ask for a pull

 

preach it brother. some time you just got to ask for help

 

I dont see why everyone spends so much on bilistiens or w/e. I just run regular old Rough Country shocks. I can only assume they've never driven in real jeeps before like ******, CJs or YJs.

For expensive shocks go on my car, not on my jeep. thats just my opinion though

 

i would like to see what kind of wheelin you do. suspension parts are something you dont wanna cheap out on.

 

I dont cheap out on anything, I just dont spend a boat load on shocks.

I do dirt/water/rock type trails such as Craig lake, Lavant, Black and Decker and hopefully this year I'll be able to hit up PJF, Bobcageon and others.

I've never driven in super comfy cars so I dont really care if the ride is rougher than a Grand cherokee.

 

its not just about a rough ride. cheap shocks are hardly ever the correct length. you need to measure and order a shock with the right extended and collapsed length. if you have too much droop for a shock you can kiss it goodbye. companies like bilstein and fox make shocks in the correct lengths so you can fine tune your suspension. also the correct valving makes a hell of a difference on the trail.

 

x2. they are more money for more reasons then just a good ride.

 

the length really isnt a good arguement. you can order shocks of the correct length for your suspension from just about any manufactuer

 

though they say they are for 6" doesnt mean the the will work for all suspension setups. try running a basic 6" lift shock with a linked rear in a cherokee

 

True but I'm not a hardcore wheeler. I don't wheel MOAB or Rausch Creek type trails so I just use limit straps to keep from ripping my shocks apart and for the past 3 years of wheeling I've never had a problem.

If I get to the point where I'm yerning for bigger tires, more flex, etc then I'll look at those probably. But since 33s on 3-4 inch lift and some decent skids/rockrails is all you really need within 2 hours of my home to wheel i dont bother. I've never driven beyond an hour to wheel so if I can wheel any trail within 2 hours of me I dont see why I would upgrade to give me more flex and make the trails easier.

I like a challenge and I dont want to drive 13 hours to get it. 33s 60-40% down-up travel and about 3.5 inch lift.

until that changes I wont be changing my shocks. For more average users stock RC shocks are fine, for advanced users fabbing up custom LA setups and doing serious rock crawling or prerunning by all means expensive shocks are the way to go.

 

also try running a 3" lift shock on a 3" longarm setup

 

lol, with a linked rear you wouldnt order an off the shelf 6" lift shock anyways.

im talking about measureing the lengths you need and ordering it, not just going by lift size. if i want a 12" travel shock, i can order it from just about anybody...

 

^^^^

 

your still gonna spend money to do so. not worth ordering a shock like that. they are still build rather cheaply. go check out the quality and shaft size of a bilstein shock compared to a rustys or skyjacker. like i said before you get what you pay for.

 

i would always go with a mono tube shock too