Backstory, was my DD for a few years, a young teen smashed me from behind (again), this time at 40mph, lucky no one was injured, tore the rear axle out by shearing u-bolts, tore up the LH rear side sheet metal, a write-off. I cut the sheetmetal with an 18V angle grinder and a mate winched the rear axle back into position, while I installed new u-bolts and spring pins (on the side of the road at the accident site, next day. Drove it 60 miles to my rural block and left it parked for 5 years

Now; added 5 gallons of fresh fuel, started up and drove, next time I went back (with more fuel), it did the following;

very hard to start, needs 30 secs crank, pump throttle till it attains 2000RPM

will not idle, whole engine shakes below 1500 RPM, but seems to smooth out above 2000RPM (with throttle)

Once fully warm, it will idle, so I can investigate further

* No brake booster assistance at all
* I cannot find any obvious vacuum leak

proceed to pull a plug leads (as it feels like the engine is missing at low RPM), pull one it nearly stalls, pull the next three and no change

hmmm...these cylinders are not working, either cause the spark plugs have gone "bad", or the injectors are clogged

The wires I took off sure had spark !, despite leather gloves and insulated pliers, I could still feel a buzz !

Because it revs freely over 2000 RPM, I am thinking (hopefully not) injectors

So next time, I will take spark plugs as a first try

I did put the OBD2 on it and read "Manifold vacuum" "short term fuel trim" and codes

It had a "vehicle speed sensor" code (should not affect) The STFT reading was wacky, and the all important manifold vacuum read 3.5 at idle (compared to 1.6 on my current 96)

(Mani vacuum reading was not what I expected)

I am thinking this reading, and total lack of brake boost may be down to at least 3 spark plugs not firing properly

Any thoughts ?

 

turns out it wasnt the spark plugs, so next I changed the fuel filter, and oh no, it rattles...here is what I found when I cut it open



The filter element was detached, meaning unfiltered fuel has been pumped through the injectors

As this truck has sat for about 5 years ( I added 5-10 gallons of fuel), I am going to say their would have been scum in the tank, and that has now clogged the injectors

My plan is as follows (nasty job as its in a grassy paddock in the open). Drop the tank, clean out any gunk and bad fuel, clean pump, and sit it in a bucket of fuel.
Detach fuel line at front connector before injectors and pump clean fuel to flush lines.

I will then have to remove the injectors and rail and take them home to my workshop

Once there, I will see if I can clean them out, if not, I will have to buy another set, which is all a nuisance, as it is a damaged unreg farmtruck...but I need it running!

I have not removed a Jeep injector before, nor attempted to clean out injectors ( I will check YouTube)

Any suggestions to ease my burden would be most welcome

(The symptoms are, hard to start, does not want to idle, barely runs, engine shakes, has very weak brakes as vacuum assist is non-existent, some cyls seem to be working better than others

 

You give a lot of good ideas and advice on the forum. I want to reciprocate that. A common sense tidbit of info. Do not operate your injectors from a battery! They run at 5volts. 12 is, well, too much! You have a solid plan, g'day & good luck👍. Ric

 

So do you bro, so thanks

I will of course check Youtube, presumably they are soaked in cleaner first. I do know you check the spray patterns

I have worries the worst part of the job will be getting the OEM connectors and injectors apart and out without breaking brittle plastic.

I have another job to do next time I go there, but I will soak the connectors with something well beforehand.

In the past, I have then blitzed connectors with degreaser spray to wash out the grit. Jeep connectors have given me a hard time before, patience is needed