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Old Mar 8, 2010 | 12:30 PM
  #31  
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I seriously doubt any of those gains with slotted and drilled rotors mentioned here, in fact I bet the differences you guys felt were only because of fresh pads and rotors.

drilled rotors again will only help prevent fade, overheating and warping,

stopping shorter requires higher traction or higher clamping force on the rotor, which slotted and drilled rotor will not provide
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Old Mar 8, 2010 | 05:38 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by captainofiron

drilled rotors again will only help prevent fade, overheating and warping,

stopping shorter requires higher traction or higher clamping force on the rotor, which slotted and drilled rotor will not provide
So a better compound pad combined with more efficient rotors makes no difference?
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Old Mar 8, 2010 | 06:03 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by 01XJBES
So a better compound pad combined with more efficient rotors makes no difference?
it makes a difference in that it allows the rotor to vent faster staying cooler in strenuous situations (i.e. towing) to prevent the pads from burning or glazing. to get the best, most noticable results you would need a caliper with a higher clamping force, not drilled or slotted rotors.
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Old Mar 9, 2010 | 08:37 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by 01XJBES
So a better compound pad combined with more efficient rotors makes no difference?
negligible

pad compounds and different rotors just help prevent fade, or dust

like I said if you had a brake feel difference the difference was either caused by you wanting to feel the difference from your purchase, or your old pads and rotors were gone

dont believe me read Baer's article

Originally Posted by tannerp89
it makes a difference in that it allows the rotor to vent faster staying cooler in strenuous situations (i.e. towing) to prevent the pads from burning or glazing. to get the best, most noticable results you would need a caliper with a higher clamping force, not drilled or slotted rotors.
+1, or a bigger diameter rotor or multiple piston calipers
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Old Mar 13, 2010 | 10:28 AM
  #35  
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I' m just wondering, Have any of you guys that say that slotted and cross drilled rotors will make no difference actually driven a vehicle with with the rotors and pads?

My wife even noticed the difference in the stopping power. She only drives my Jeep once in a great while.
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Old Mar 13, 2010 | 08:18 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by 01XJBES
I' m just wondering, Have any of you guys that say that slotted and cross drilled rotors will make no difference actually driven a vehicle with with the rotors and pads?

My wife even noticed the difference in the stopping power. She only drives my Jeep once in a great while.
1995 Cutlass. Drilled and slotted rotors with "high performance" pads. No significant decrease in stopping distance (1 foot in 60-0 compared to stock pads and rotors)

The only time they contribute to shorter stopping distance is when they are under constant use. Even then without the addition of higher clamping force calipers the effects are marginal.
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Old Mar 15, 2010 | 09:44 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by 01XJBES
I' m just wondering, Have any of you guys that say that slotted and cross drilled rotors will make no difference actually driven a vehicle with with the rotors and pads?

My wife even noticed the difference in the stopping power. She only drives my Jeep once in a great while.
I have a 1997 Trans Am WS-6 that I use to regularly race in SCCA solo-2, like I said, no difference in regular driving, heavy braking in road courses, yes there is a difference, but its only for preventing fade

let me reiterate only way to decrease stopping distance is to increase clamping force of the caliper, increase the rotor surface area, improve traction, i.e. suspension upgrades, wider/stickier tires

seat of your pants testing is very subjective
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