What Is the best engine flush additive?
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"""""I poured in a quart of MMO. On the next oil change the oil was considerably darker than the previous oil changes. """""
When MMO is used as a lubricant - like on electric motor bearings, even on your refrigerator door it turns black. That's not showing it's removing deposits.
When MMO is used as a lubricant - like on electric motor bearings, even on your refrigerator door it turns black. That's not showing it's removing deposits.
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Originally Posted by rrich
"""""I poured in a quart of MMO. On the next oil change the oil was considerably darker than the previous oil changes. """""
When MMO is used as a lubricant - like on electric motor bearings, even on your refrigerator door it turns black. That's not showing it's removing deposits.
When MMO is used as a lubricant - like on electric motor bearings, even on your refrigerator door it turns black. That's not showing it's removing deposits.
#19
Im not big on additives but when I bought my jeep used. Just got tired of changing the oil and a week later it looked black as day. Used a product called motor flush grey bottle think gunk made it. It did something cause its definitely cleaner, longer than it used to be. Im just not used to changing oil and filter and seeing black a week later. Had to try something.
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MMO is great stuff, it's a thin oil, but not much of a lubricant.
For some reason when used as a lubricant it turns black - friction maybe?
The black color mostly isn't from the deposits it removed, it's from being subjected to bearings, lifters etc. That's why I mentioned electric motor bearings - no cumbustion to turn it black, just friction.
ATF, very thin oils, kereosenes, and solvants have been used throughout the years. All do some cleaning. The danger in all of them - they are not good lubricants - engine parts wear fast - and they can loosen up chunks of crud, plugging passags etc.
You want it to dissolve deposits slowly so the filter can catch them.
Too aggressive causes problems.
Good quality gasoline and oil have the additives to do just that.
Frequent oil changes will eventually get everything back to normal - SAFELY!
For some reason when used as a lubricant it turns black - friction maybe?
The black color mostly isn't from the deposits it removed, it's from being subjected to bearings, lifters etc. That's why I mentioned electric motor bearings - no cumbustion to turn it black, just friction.
ATF, very thin oils, kereosenes, and solvants have been used throughout the years. All do some cleaning. The danger in all of them - they are not good lubricants - engine parts wear fast - and they can loosen up chunks of crud, plugging passags etc.
You want it to dissolve deposits slowly so the filter can catch them.
Too aggressive causes problems.
Good quality gasoline and oil have the additives to do just that.
Frequent oil changes will eventually get everything back to normal - SAFELY!
#21
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Huh... weird that it turns black. How do you know this? Like firsthand seen it or read it on the bottle? I just read the directions didn't say anything about it turning black. Lol.
Agreed though regular oil changes are a must.
Agreed though regular oil changes are a must.
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When I do a motor flush I add about a 1/2 qt of trans fluid let it run for 10-15 mins. An old mechanic I know told me about it. At first I thought this guy is a nut, but curiosity got the best of me and I happen to try it, the oil was so clean you couldn't even see it on the stick.
I use to work in an oil change for about 5yrs I've seen and heard it all!!!! lol without going in to, too many stories we had a girl bring in a brand new Jeep Cherokee with about 25,000 for the first oil.......needless to say the oil came out in chunks, but looked clean as new after I added trans fluid to flush it. We changed the oil and filter first added trans fluid ran it for 15 mins and changed again.
I use to work in an oil change for about 5yrs I've seen and heard it all!!!! lol without going in to, too many stories we had a girl bring in a brand new Jeep Cherokee with about 25,000 for the first oil.......needless to say the oil came out in chunks, but looked clean as new after I added trans fluid to flush it. We changed the oil and filter first added trans fluid ran it for 15 mins and changed again.
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Fresh quality oil is the safest. Run for 100 miles, make sure it fully warms up at least twice, change it with a new QUALITY filter. Repeat until it's clean. It may take a few times. The additives in the oil are enough to clean it without disloging gum, plugging passages, starving bearings etc. Other things may not be SAFE.
My XJ was dealer maintained from new, except for the last 2 years before I bought it, when NO maintenance of any description was carried out as the PO was looking to get rid of it. The old oil looked pretty much like tar.
Took it to the dealer mechanic who showed me evidence of sludge in the valvetrain. He recommended some engine flush treatment (BG something, I think?), but I declined and just went for regular oil changes over a period of time instead. Slow and steady.
For year 1, OCI's at 3 months. For year 2, OCI's at 4 months. Just regular 10w30 and Mopar oil filters, nothing else.
Had an inspection done at the end of year 2 and saw no sign of sludge when the valve cover was off. Runs better than ever. Seems like a bit of TLC over the 2 years I've had the vehicle, by just regularly changing the oil and filter, has pretty much done the trick.
Might be different if the engine is totally caked in **** (mine wasn't THAT bad), but what I did worked for me.
Just my 2 cents...
Ash
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