What am I in for...Transmission line seals
#1
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Year: 1996 Two Door Wagoneer
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
What am I in for...Transmission line seals
Both of the AW4 transmission line connectors at the transmission are leaking. Are these easy to service? Special disconnect tools needed like for the connection at the radiator? They look different. When they come off, does all the fluid pour out?
Thanks. You are smarter than me.
Thanks. You are smarter than me.
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Sandcast (10-30-2022)
#2
The connectors are different than at the radiator side. They come out very easily by squeezing on the two tabs with your fingers. The problem is they usually break since they have typically been in place for 20 years. IT's . very simple connector that slips over the line and clips into place. There are two o-rings that seal the line. I bought these for my 98: These have the connector and new orings inside and at the connection to the transmission. You will lose some fluid, but not a lot since this is pretty high up on the transmission pan.
#3
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
The connectors are different than at the radiator side. They come out very easily by squeezing on the two tabs with your fingers. The problem is they usually break since they have typically been in place for 20 years. IT's . very simple connector that slips over the line and clips into place. There are two o-rings that seal the line. I bought these for my 98: https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-800-71.../dp/B000E35W38 These have the connector and new orings inside and at the connection to the transmission. You will lose some fluid, but not a lot since this is pretty high up on the transmission pan.
#4
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Year: 1996 Two Door Wagoneer
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
The connectors are different than at the radiator side. They come out very easily by squeezing on the two tabs with your fingers. The problem is they usually break since they have typically been in place for 20 years. IT's . very simple connector that slips over the line and clips into place. There are two o-rings that seal the line. I bought these for my 98: https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-800-71.../dp/B000E35W38 These have the connector and new orings inside and at the connection to the transmission. You will lose some fluid, but not a lot since this is pretty high up on the transmission pan.
Thanks.
#5
Junior Member
Yes, together with the plastic retainer. Dorman has repair kits (DORMAN 800750 for my 89 XJ). Just do online search.
#7
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Year: 2000
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Fortunately was not something that needed replacing. Just part of my "Well while we are here" thing.
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#8
I have two things that help me with these kinds of projects. Long pipe for the wrench and a hammer to bang on a wrench. Now I am remembering using a wrench and using a hammer to bang on the wrench to get it break free. This would have been underneath it on my back.
#9
Junior Member
The connectors are different than at the radiator side. They come out very easily by squeezing on the two tabs with your fingers. The problem is they usually break since they have typically been in place for 20 years. IT's . very simple connector that slips over the line and clips into place. There are two o-rings that seal the line. I bought these for my 98: https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-800-71.../dp/B000E35W38 These have the connector and new orings inside and at the connection to the transmission. You will lose some fluid, but not a lot since this is pretty high up on the transmission pan.
Agree 100% - there is no need for wrenches or pliers, the steel AT oil line will disconnect just by squeezing the black "tabs" that extend out of the quick connector.
The white plug in the middle in the photo below is just for holding the O-rings, spacer ring and the black plastic piece together during shipping or storage.
#10
Senior Member
In CA you should be able to remove them w/o too much difficulty. What often keeps them from coming out properly is a build up of rust (which you probably don't have) inside the area where the plastic retainer 'nests' ..and also with dirt/debris (which you may have). There needs to be enough room as you squeeze the clip 'ears' so the inner part can expand out far enough to release the line.
What I would recommend is to get the straw of a can of carb cleaner in there and try to blast out as much debris as possible. Then blow with an air gun if you have one handy. Maybe spray some penetrating oil in there to help lube the parts to come out easily. If you see any small pieces of rock/debris, I would stick some wire in there to bust up or work out. The key is to get the inner area as clean as you can get it. My Jeep is almost 10 years older than yours, and I was surprised the Nylon retaining clips were still very pliable, but very difficult to remove. If you think your clips are stiff and may break, consider heating with a hair drier for 3 minutes, or so. They should come out w/o damage ('Hopefully').
For those who live in rusty environments (rust belt) and have rusty vehicles, removing the clips may be a REAL challenge b/c rust can build up inside the fitting housing reducing the amount of room the inner 'ears' can move (the 'ears' which retain the line) making it almost impossible to remove some lines, such as those on the transmission. Add to that, some of the clips up by the radiator are in tight locations, difficult to access with tools. I fought trying to remove my clips for a long time using all sorts of instruments and tools. Those at the front of the vehicle I WAS able to remove. But those in the rear were too rusted in. Finally, it made more sense to just cut the lines off at the trans line screw-in adapter and just replace both adapters (I had new lines anyway). I was able to find 2 new adapters cheap somewhere (I think it was autozone??).
I heavily greased the adapters where the line plugs into ....to hopefully stave off a quick re-rusting.
Good luck
What I would recommend is to get the straw of a can of carb cleaner in there and try to blast out as much debris as possible. Then blow with an air gun if you have one handy. Maybe spray some penetrating oil in there to help lube the parts to come out easily. If you see any small pieces of rock/debris, I would stick some wire in there to bust up or work out. The key is to get the inner area as clean as you can get it. My Jeep is almost 10 years older than yours, and I was surprised the Nylon retaining clips were still very pliable, but very difficult to remove. If you think your clips are stiff and may break, consider heating with a hair drier for 3 minutes, or so. They should come out w/o damage ('Hopefully').
For those who live in rusty environments (rust belt) and have rusty vehicles, removing the clips may be a REAL challenge b/c rust can build up inside the fitting housing reducing the amount of room the inner 'ears' can move (the 'ears' which retain the line) making it almost impossible to remove some lines, such as those on the transmission. Add to that, some of the clips up by the radiator are in tight locations, difficult to access with tools. I fought trying to remove my clips for a long time using all sorts of instruments and tools. Those at the front of the vehicle I WAS able to remove. But those in the rear were too rusted in. Finally, it made more sense to just cut the lines off at the trans line screw-in adapter and just replace both adapters (I had new lines anyway). I was able to find 2 new adapters cheap somewhere (I think it was autozone??).
I heavily greased the adapters where the line plugs into ....to hopefully stave off a quick re-rusting.
Good luck
Last edited by Jeepwalker; 01-28-2019 at 01:29 PM.
#11
Junior Member
Good points regarding rust & debris in some other locations - I have Pacific Northwest 89 & 90 XJ's with each around 200,000 miles and no rust in either one.
But we need to remember not to park them too long in one place or they will start turning green....
But we need to remember not to park them too long in one place or they will start turning green....
😰
#12
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Year: 1996 Two Door Wagoneer
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
In CA you should be able to remove them w/o too much difficulty. What often keeps them from coming out properly is a build up of rust (which you probably don't have) inside the area where the plastic retainer 'nests' ..and also with dirt/debris (which you may have). There needs to be enough room as you squeeze the clip 'ears' so the inner part can expand out far enough to release the line...
For those who live in rusty environments (rust belt) and have rusty vehicles, removing the clips may be a REAL challenge b/c rust can build up inside the fitting housing reducing the amount of room the inner 'ears' can move (the 'ears' which retain the line) making it almost impossible to remove some lines, ....Good luck
For those who live in rusty environments (rust belt) and have rusty vehicles, removing the clips may be a REAL challenge b/c rust can build up inside the fitting housing reducing the amount of room the inner 'ears' can move (the 'ears' which retain the line) making it almost impossible to remove some lines, ....Good luck
But I ordered up the complete assy, (Doorman 800-714) not just the rings and clip. Cheap enough at Rock A. $6.31 each.
The whole fitting unscrewed quite easily with a long handle 22mm open end wrench. Access with the long wrench was easy. Just a bit messy from some of oil draining out of the lines before I got the rubber caps on.
Wish all the Jeep projects were that easy!
#13
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.7 Stroker
Idk why but for some reason the lower line closest to the engine is refusing to go back in. I had trouble taking it out to begin with but the other one gave me no problems. Anything that I can do?
#14
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Year: 96
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
clean it out with a pick
I replaced the whole adaptor with a screw in adaptor with 3/8" barb and rubber hose all the way
You can also apparently use AN fittings
#15
CF Veteran
Get rid of those crappy plastic fittings. There are junk. They only exist for labor savings at the jeep factory. They are a pain to reuse, the plastic after decades of us can become fragile, prone to damage, etc.... There is no benefit other than labor savings at the jeep factory.
If one fails a lot of damage can happen, ruined transmission, fire, or maybe a only a ruined road trip.
Instead cut the pipe, flare the end, and slip the hose over with some quality hose clamps (some hose clamps these days are red chinese junk, beware) I get USA made quality clamps. West Marine sells such clamps, and they ship nation wide.
Those stock connectors are crappola, ditch them for reliability and ease of repair.
If one fails a lot of damage can happen, ruined transmission, fire, or maybe a only a ruined road trip.
Instead cut the pipe, flare the end, and slip the hose over with some quality hose clamps (some hose clamps these days are red chinese junk, beware) I get USA made quality clamps. West Marine sells such clamps, and they ship nation wide.
Those stock connectors are crappola, ditch them for reliability and ease of repair.