Welding an exhaust manifold...
CF Veteran
Joined: May 2012
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From: Lost in the wilds of Virginia
Year: 1998 Classic (I'll get it running soon....) and 02 Grand
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
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From: Highland
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0L H.O.
I've welded both Headers as well as cast manifolds, with the cast you will have the best luck with oxy-acetalyne lots of pre-heat and time, but they can be made to last a while. Headers as mentioned above removing from the vehicle is a wise idea. Best of luck to you.
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Joined: Jul 2011
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
I have welded in the past on thicker mild steel, not much on the thinner metals such as exhaust work. But am looking to weld up some stainless exhaust pipe using a stick welder.
There are welding charts that provide approx. settings, rod type and sizes.
More heat usually allows for better penetration and a stronger weld. Welding thinner metals this becomes a problem, because the metal potentially blows out from too much heat and sometimes compromise the integrity of the metal.
I think what happens sometimes, exhaust manifolds will crack along or near the edge of a previous weld, from using too much heat that makes surrounding metal brittle.
To keep heat down some welders weld small areas at a time letting the metal cool as they weld, sometimes referred as stitch welding, used on cast iron metals that are more prone to cracking.
There are welding charts that provide approx. settings, rod type and sizes.
More heat usually allows for better penetration and a stronger weld. Welding thinner metals this becomes a problem, because the metal potentially blows out from too much heat and sometimes compromise the integrity of the metal.
I think what happens sometimes, exhaust manifolds will crack along or near the edge of a previous weld, from using too much heat that makes surrounding metal brittle.
To keep heat down some welders weld small areas at a time letting the metal cool as they weld, sometimes referred as stitch welding, used on cast iron metals that are more prone to cracking.
Last edited by Anony; Dec 26, 2013 at 11:21 AM.
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 1,268
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From: Bakersfield CA
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Mine was holding for the past two years until last month when I decided not to pay attention and drove off a three foot ledge, WHEEEEE.
Rebroke exhaust mani, blew out front shocks, and dinged the uni-frame pretty good too.
Rebroke exhaust mani, blew out front shocks, and dinged the uni-frame pretty good too.
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Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 52
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From: Englishtown N.J
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 High Output
manifold
If you have a cast iron manifold try Lock N' Stitch to repair crack. I repaired a crack in cast iron Jag XKE block and it works great. Check their website
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Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 239
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
This person seems to be successful performing manifold repairs using a 130 mini amp welder and 72 and 77 electrodes ...
Their rod is sorta expensive though. When compared to the price of a new manifold.
http://muggyweld.com/cast-iron-welding-rods
Their rod is sorta expensive though. When compared to the price of a new manifold.
http://muggyweld.com/cast-iron-welding-rods
Last edited by Anony; Dec 26, 2013 at 10:46 AM.
CF Veteran
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 7,965
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From: Lost in the wilds of Virginia
Year: 1998 Classic (I'll get it running soon....) and 02 Grand
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
From the muggy website:
That sure sounds like something your average backyard welder can handle.
The single most important thing to remember when working with cast iron is to keep it out of the 150 to 500 °F range. Use both cooling and heating, and make sure not to change methods in the middle of a weld. Preheat the entire casting slowly and uniformly in the 500 to 1200°F range and see to it that it doesn’t overheat.
During and after working with cast iron, remember to allow the casting to cool slowly, or keep it cool but not cold. Using our cast iron electrodes, make short 1-inch welds to avoid overheating, and peen the weld between passes if possible.
During and after working with cast iron, remember to allow the casting to cool slowly, or keep it cool but not cold. Using our cast iron electrodes, make short 1-inch welds to avoid overheating, and peen the weld between passes if possible.
That sure sounds like something your average backyard welder can handle.
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