yes my wiring for my overhead lights and bjas are the sme. I use * gauge wire which is overly large s there is no way I cold burn that stuff up. I use 2 fuses like the ones they showed above, one at battery, and one before firewall. so there is no chance of a spike in energy melting any wires near the cab ( never happened in 3.5 years and Iuse thm alot.) then I he a 50amp switch, I like it cuz it feels real instead of those crap ones. so I sent hotlead into one of the switch ports. then the other lead of the other side to the lights. I had used relays a bunch and they always failed and had crap going on with them.

 

That sounds like a good idea...I like the switches that are like the air craft ones with the little red cover over them. I think thats the one Im gonna get...Now i just gotta figure out where Im gonna mount my switch???

 

Here is a good handy spot

 

I like by the knees cuz if you ever have drunk people in your car, the first things to be targeted are the buttons and switches

 

I fabed this switch box. the checker it aircraft style like youre saying. those are nice because you can take off the aircraft flip part if the switch ever goes bad and relace it with a cheaper one ( only cheaper cuz it doesnt have that cover)

 

Do the switches get in your way down there under the collum?

 

nope, not a once. my knee has never hit it

 

Here are mine, pretty much the same a Troth..
The red switch is for the Electric Fan, the black is for the bajas..



Someone should post a "Electrical Mods" thread for people to throw all their cool electrical stuff in...

 

here is a few we put on my buddies yota...they work OK and look pretty stylish-ish... we ran them to a toggle switch for all four.... BE SURE TO CHECK AMP RATINGS ON TOGGLES. THE ONE HE PICKED UP WAS INSUFFICIENT AND PHYSICALLY CAUGHT FIRE.
toggle was bought at walmart btw...
just sayin
i will spend the extra 100 dollars for lights on my rig as i see these as pretty cheesy... plus they are on every 4x4 within 95 miles of here

 

I don't mean to pick at you, but why did you mount your switches there when you have the empty spot next to your rear defroster.. just curious to know

 

thats cool and all man but do your self a favor and get some better switches, im not bashin on you, hey if it aint broke dont fix it but theese dont look good and wont last as long. go pick up the aircraft flip ones especially so you could never turn it on with your knees

 

The red switch was already there when I bought it, but did not have anything hooked up to it. So I used it for the electric fan. Im kinda ocd when it comes to stuff being inline, So I put the other one right next to it so it will "look right"

The red switch has like 1A going through it. It is inline with the fan coolant temp sensor, when the sensor reaches the right temp it closes a contact, sending a trigger signal to the relay. Its no different than hooking a switch up to a relay.
The black one is for my Bajas, came with them from the factory. It says its rated for 25A but I will pry upgrade the wiring to 12g and use a relay..

Dylan

 

Alright. I don't know much about wiring, so I consulted the great Google and found the following photo. Based on the above discussion, we should use 12 awg wire and a 30a relay. Don't forget to put your fuse as close to the power source as possible. Use a switch of your choosing.

Looking at the below diagram I can follow all the steps, but don't understand the fuse box part. Is this an essential/important step. Is there alternative wiring that is just as functional? Why do you wire into the fuse box? Also, how do you tap into the fuse box?

s




Thanks,
s

 

I was just at walmart and saw BAJA Driving Lights ($23) and a generic driving light ($18) from Blazer (the same manufacturer). The thing is that BAJAs don't say wattage at all whereas the smaller generics say 55w H3 bulbs. Which is better? Are the Baja's 55w H3s as well?

Thanks,
s

 

the bajas are 55w