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Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go hereXJ (84-01)
All OEM related XJ specific tech. Examples, no start, general maintenance or anything that's stock.
i replaced the water pump, thermostat (190 degree), flushed the heater core, the blower changes ( defrost, floor, vents, etc) i can tell the difference changing from cold to hot, but dont hear a door sound.
the heater core hoses both feel about the same, the heater core hoses are hotter than the radiator hoses, and the temp gauge shows it gets to temp.
i do need to flush the system as i still get rust color even though ive filled with green antifreeze.
SO, does that mean my radiator is bad? or maybe my radiator cap( when it was at operating temp, i loosened the cap, it had some pressure.
well if it didn't gush antifreeze all over the place when you loosen the cap at temp it must have had alot of air in it?
Use a no spill funnel w/extension and cycle the engine a few times cold to hot operating temp, and it will truly be 'Full'. Makes a big difference!
great tool on a cherokee, Mine is clear and I can see the bubbles come up while in the drivers seat.
Last edited by Ron& Lisa; Jan 8, 2017 at 04:09 PM.
well if it didn't gush antifreeze all over the place when you loosen the cap at temp it must have had alot of air in it?
Use a no spill funnel w/extension and cycle the engine a few times cold to hot operating temp, and it will truly be 'Full'. Makes a big difference!
great tool on a cherokee, Mine is clear and I can see the bubbles come up while in the drivers seat.
I'm having a similar problem but I don't follow you. Excuse me for being simple minded but what are you using the funnel for, and when? Am I reading; Remove the cap when cold, put the funnel in when cold and run the motor until warm? Repeat this process a few times? Thanks
Yes, when the thermostat finally opens from cold you'll get a good amount of that air to bubble out! When it get's to temp rev the engine a few times will get a bunch more out- it bubbles up through the filler. Let it it idle down and shut off get some more bubbles. I let it get cold and do it again...
That filler is the highest level in the motor, and all the air will find! it works!
you use the extension and the cap they provide, add enough coolant to fill funnel about 2-3" deep
It lifts the funnel and coolant level much higher that any point in the cooling system
Last edited by Ron& Lisa; Jan 8, 2017 at 05:08 PM.
Yes, when the thermostat finally opens from cold you'll get a good amount of that air to bubble out! When it get's to temp rev the engine a few times will get a bunch more out- it bubbles up through the filler. Let it it idle down and shut off get some more bubbles. I let it get cold and do it again...
That filler is the highest level in the motor, and all the air will find! it works!
you use the extension and the cap they provide, add enough coolant to fill funnel about 2-3" deep
It lifts the funnel and coolant level much higher that any point in the cooling system
Yes, when the thermostat finally opens from cold you'll get a good amount of that air to bubble out! When it get's to temp rev the engine a few times will get a bunch more out- it bubbles up through the filler. Let it it idle down and shut off get some more bubbles. I let it get cold and do it again...
That filler is the highest level in the motor, and all the air will find! it works!
you use the extension and the cap they provide, add enough coolant to fill funnel about 2-3" deep
It lifts the funnel and coolant level much higher that any point in the cooling system
I've never used anything special and have never had an issue.
I fill while cold allowing time for air to come up. Once it takes no more fluid I start the engine. With most vehicles the fluid level will drop some when the engine is started, I then add fluid 'till it takes no more and cap it. Run 'till the thermostat opens and turn off engine. Carefully loosen the cap to bleed off the pressure, or wait 'till it cools and looses pressure if I have that kinda time; if fluid comes while relieving the pressure I'm done, but there's usually gonna be some air. Top off and done. Make sure the reservoir is full, I often go a little over the full mark. Once it has heat cycled, fully hot, then fully cold, it'll suck fluid from the bottle to replace any air that was left in the system.
Using that funnel might make it easier for many people, I just don't see it as an advantage for me.
Some systems require opening a bleed to purge the air. Not doing this will give you a fake full, the pump will likely be airlocked, the gauge will show cold while the engine overheats and dies. This has happened to several people I know.
Year: 1998 Classic (I'll get it running soon....) and 02 Grand
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by jessezipper
SO, does that mean my radiator is bad?
No, it does not mean your radiator is bad. It may mean you have air in the system as Ron has suggested. OR, it may mean your blend door is not working correctly. It may also mean your heater core is still fairly clogged. It may pass some fluid, but not much.
If your coolant is quickly discoloring then chances are you need to do some more flushing. also My jeep had a similiar problem but my issue was a result of a bad head gasket pushing combustion gas into the cooling system trapping it in the heater core. usually a few quick revs after it warmed up, I can actually hear the coolant push through the heater core and i get normal heat until i turn the jeep off again and have to start over.
very little to no heat at all
