gintaras

Well, the title asks a lot, but here is the question.

I just did a 3" series 2 install, I used a good amount of anti-seize on the control arm bolts because they were so tough to remove in the first place..

Now I think perhaps I used a little too much because even after tightening down the bolts with all my might, I can still spin the nut/bolt pair when the CA's are installed.. is this really bad? Do I need to take the bolts out and clean off all the anti-seize and let the metal bite into the metal to get a good solid grip?

This is the stuff that I used and yeah, some got on the bolt heads which is why they still spin.

ckysodkorn_xj

how did you get them out in the first place? i cant get mine out and imma pretty big kidd. haha.

Throttle Jockey

so long as they are tight, your fine. but those bolts in the pic look like grade five. way soft and could break. i would recommend grade eight. much stronger and wont break as easily.

gintaras

Well i can be extremely resourceful.. a lot of PB blaster, MAPP gas, and a lot of leverage and cussing


That is not my pic, I am talking about the big control arm bolts and rear spring bolts.. I am worried about the control arms becasue they have elongated holes, and I am afraid they will slide back and forth because of the never seize..

Throttle Jockey

i'm pickin up what you're puttin down. the lca bolts need to be good and tight so the arms dont shift. i would use antisieze on just the threads and also use lock nuts and washers. in the rear spring bolts, use as much as needed.

ckysodkorn_xj

what size bolt did u use because im going to replace mine.

gintaras

I got them from the dealer, i only had to replace 2 of the 8
They were $7 each

ckysodkorn_xj

wow. i would jsut find out what size and go to tractor supply and pay 2 bucks for a pound of em

98 JeepJeep

i believe the lower control arm brackets have elongated holes from he factory.

Here how i do things....i really only use antiseeze on thing im taking off all the time. And things i dont want to bind..like caliper slide pins,door hinge pins etc...Otherwise i install the bolts dry and use a dab of Locktite and Distorted Thread Locknuts when ever its a High stress bolt.

gintaras

Right, i meant the brackets, not the arms themself. I have been under this Jeep for the past 4 days, I know it very very well.

So, does everyone think it would be a good idea to take all of these bolts out and clean them off with brake cleaner to remove all the grease and put them back in ? Because even when I tighten them all the way down I can still turn the whole nut/bolt assembly with a wrench on either end, the bolt heads and nut heads are rotating against the brackets even when tightened to all hell.

I almost wish I wouldn't have gone through all this trouble, it was one of the most frustrating jobs I have ever done and I just want it right!

strikechords

when i did my lift i could only break 1 loose, even after soaking them in pb blaster for at least 24 hours, and heatin them up. had to cut the rest off and go to the stealership over $40 on 4 bolts and nuts...

ckysodkorn_xj

maby the bolts are a hair to small?

gintaras

no they are the exact same bolts as what came out

rainman

Mate,
If it were me I would take them out clean them up and put them back with blue locktight ( meant for anti-vibration & disassembly with hand tools) .
The locktight fills up the thread voids and stops corrosion, and cause it is locktight they will not come loose.
It can spin wiggle or f#$K sideways after you tighten it, but you know the nut will not come off.
I use a torque wrench & locktight for all the suspension bolts.

djritter1122

as for bolts i got some grade 8's at the hardware store. under 5 dollars for 1 bolt 1 nut and 2 washers.