Upper Control Arm Question
#1
CF Veteran
Thread Starter
Upper Control Arm Question
Are the upper control arm bushings the same at both ends of the control arm? Obviously one presses into the arm itself (chassis end) and the other into the axle but do I just need to purchase four of the same UCA bushings?
#5
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Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Lapeer, Murder Mitten
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
Yup, just did the two in axle. Come two to a box from moog, for one arm. $13. from O'rileys
Left side you can get behind flange and drive out with air chisel or hand drive. Right side I drilled most of rubber out then cut rest with sawzall, then cut outer in two places and beat the snot out of it.
Left side you can get behind flange and drive out with air chisel or hand drive. Right side I drilled most of rubber out then cut rest with sawzall, then cut outer in two places and beat the snot out of it.
#6
CF Veteran
Thread Starter
Thanks for the tips, Larry. I had a heck of a time just getting the bolts out. We'll see what kind of fun I have with the bushings in the morning.
#7
Beach Bum
If the first bolt of control arms is difficult to get out and not due to corrosion, jack up/or down that side of axle until bolt turns easily (just an inch or so), it will then slide out easily. Load of suspension 'binds' bolt.
Larry'sXJ has the right idea.
Easiest way to remove the bushings is a ball-joint press OR, drill three or four holes in rubber around sleeve, sleeve will fall out, use punch on edge of bushing can to collapse inward, can will fall out also.
Will need a ball joint press to install new ones. Using a hammer will distort them and prevent proper seating. Little grease helps.
I had to remove the coil springs to get the oversize ball-press in correct position. Not everyone does.
Larry'sXJ has the right idea.
Easiest way to remove the bushings is a ball-joint press OR, drill three or four holes in rubber around sleeve, sleeve will fall out, use punch on edge of bushing can to collapse inward, can will fall out also.
Will need a ball joint press to install new ones. Using a hammer will distort them and prevent proper seating. Little grease helps.
I had to remove the coil springs to get the oversize ball-press in correct position. Not everyone does.
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#8
CF Veteran
When I replaced mine I bought Rukse Poly bushings for the axle and just some new stock arms off ebay (it was within the budget of $40). The Rukse bushings require you to use the existing metal housing from the old stock bushings so all I had to do was use a ball joint press and a torch to knock out the old and tap in the new with a mallet, super quick and easy and it's been great ever since.
#9
CF Veteran
Thread Starter
I got them out and the new bushing in the control arm but haven't figured out how to get the one in the axle, yet. I've tried several different mandrels and a BA C-clamp. Funny story: I've always recalled C-clamps having "unbreakable" stamped on them yet all of mine say "malleable" and they bend. It's been that kind of day. Why would anyone want a bendable c-clamp? Time to get creative.
#12
CF Veteran
Thread Starter
I got'em out. It was getting them back in that was giving me trouble.
Update: I've been trying all day to get that stupid bushing into the axle but every time I got it started it would slowly tilt so it wasn't going in squarely. ALL DAY! Tonight I was one attempt short of setting the whole thing on fire so, in my frustration, I decided to make something with rum. A lot of rum. All I had was this lime, hibiscus, clove soda stuff (I know, kind of froofy but it's good) so I mixed that up, drank half, and decided to give the bushing another go with all this new-found confidence. Ten minutes later it was in. Draw your own conclusions... I certainly have. I'll post pictures of the contraption I made to press it in later, too drunk to remember how my phone works right now.
Update: I've been trying all day to get that stupid bushing into the axle but every time I got it started it would slowly tilt so it wasn't going in squarely. ALL DAY! Tonight I was one attempt short of setting the whole thing on fire so, in my frustration, I decided to make something with rum. A lot of rum. All I had was this lime, hibiscus, clove soda stuff (I know, kind of froofy but it's good) so I mixed that up, drank half, and decided to give the bushing another go with all this new-found confidence. Ten minutes later it was in. Draw your own conclusions... I certainly have. I'll post pictures of the contraption I made to press it in later, too drunk to remember how my phone works right now.
Last edited by F1Addict; 05-04-2015 at 12:06 AM.
#14
Beach Bum
It helps to place bushings alongside frosty beverages in freezer to shrink them.
The full-size u-joint press from AdvanceAuto has a conical piece that fits the edge and lip of bushing can. It is held by C-clamp and holds bushing square.
Glad you got it!
The full-size u-joint press from AdvanceAuto has a conical piece that fits the edge and lip of bushing can. It is held by C-clamp and holds bushing square.
Glad you got it!
#15
CF Veteran
Thread Starter
I got the passenger side finished up last night and did the driver's side this morning. I had to go back to Auto Zone to resolve a double-charge issue from Saturday so decided to rent the ball joint press. Honestly, it didn't work much better than my invention but it was sure a lot prettier. We'll see if that resolved my Death Wobbles. The old bushings were definitely past their prime so I've got my fingers crossed.
Thanks to everybody for your helpful suggestions and advice. Here's the press I made to install the bushings. It's not as polished looking as the one I made for the vacuum disconnect axle seal but it worked and that's what matters...
Thanks to everybody for your helpful suggestions and advice. Here's the press I made to install the bushings. It's not as polished looking as the one I made for the vacuum disconnect axle seal but it worked and that's what matters...