upper ball joint popped out!! Axle ruined?
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Joined: Jul 2012
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From: Fort Worth
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I know this is going to be hard to determine, but I'm a little worried about this. I went to get my jeep aligned and when we lifted it off the ground the upper ball joint on the drivers side was flopping around and had popped out. I just had these ball joints all replaced in June so any time between then and now it could have popped out... my fear is how much damage this might have caused the axle hoping it doesnt wallow out the hole and make it impossible to get a ball joint to stay in there. My mechanic wont be able to fix it till tomorrow evening so I have to drive it for another 80-100 miles till he can get to it. Has anyone on the board experienced this? If it helps, i was running stock sized tires until about 3 weeks ago i started running 30" tires and no lift. no off-roading, but lots of highway driving.
Thanks in advance for the help, thoughts.
Thanks in advance for the help, thoughts.
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Joined: May 2008
Posts: 15,016
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From: +34° 25' 35.67", -81° 21' 12.04"
Year: 1993
Engine: 4.0
I'd say the top of the C is worn to the point that it won't hold the Ball joint.
Who installed them? Do you know they were the right joints?
When they come back out measure the OD of the joint and ID of the hole that it belongs in.
You'll be ok driving on it. Just dont attempt any jumps and take it easy.
Who installed them? Do you know they were the right joints?
When they come back out measure the OD of the joint and ID of the hole that it belongs in.
You'll be ok driving on it. Just dont attempt any jumps and take it easy.
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 417
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From: Fort Worth
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I'd say the top of the C is worn to the point that it won't hold the Ball joint.
Who installed them? Do you know they were the right joints?
When they come back out measure the OD of the joint and ID of the hole that it belongs in.
You'll be ok driving on it. Just dont attempt any jumps and take it easy.
Who installed them? Do you know they were the right joints?
When they come back out measure the OD of the joint and ID of the hole that it belongs in.
You'll be ok driving on it. Just dont attempt any jumps and take it easy.
On a side note... i guess i know what's causing my death wobble issue
I actually just experienced this with my driver's side lower ball joint. There is a chance that the housing is damaged beyond repair due to wallowing, but it would take some time for it to truly be cause for a new housing. Mine wasn't too bad and I fixed it by tacking in small nipples to grab the ball joint and secure it.
Be careful driving it. You can drive on it, but try to avoid larger bumps and sharp, quick turns. With the ball joint loose, a lot of strain is being put in the housing, the lower ball joint, and the knuckle.
Be careful driving it. You can drive on it, but try to avoid larger bumps and sharp, quick turns. With the ball joint loose, a lot of strain is being put in the housing, the lower ball joint, and the knuckle.
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 417
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From: Fort Worth
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I actually just experienced this with my driver's side lower ball joint. There is a chance that the housing is damaged beyond repair due to wallowing, but it would take some time for it to truly be cause for a new housing. Mine wasn't too bad and I fixed it by tacking in small nipples to grab the ball joint and secure it.
Be careful driving it. You can drive on it, but try to avoid larger bumps and sharp, quick turns. With the ball joint loose, a lot of strain is being put in the housing, the lower ball joint, and the knuckle.
Be careful driving it. You can drive on it, but try to avoid larger bumps and sharp, quick turns. With the ball joint loose, a lot of strain is being put in the housing, the lower ball joint, and the knuckle.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jul 2012
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From: Fort Worth
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Crappy way to sell a vehicle, dude. Just dumping your hack job problems on someone else isn't cool. Tacking in nipples works. Just make sure they secure the ball joint well. Don't weld the ball joint into the housing itself. The nipples create grab points to hold the ball joint in, not actually welding the ball joint itself in place. If you weld the ball joint in, you will have to replace the axle at some point.
Last edited by no rdplz; Sep 18, 2012 at 10:05 AM.
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From: +34° 25' 35.67", -81° 21' 12.04"
Year: 1993
Engine: 4.0
... I was kidding.
The axle needs to be replace anyways... they're a dime a dozen.
I'd bet in a larger city you could swap an axle in cheaper than you could have some guy weld ya some nipples on.
The axle needs to be replace anyways... they're a dime a dozen.
I'd bet in a larger city you could swap an axle in cheaper than you could have some guy weld ya some nipples on.
Thread Starter
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From: Fort Worth
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
probably not, my mechanic is going to do the install for 100 upper and lower if they need it. I'll see if he can weld in nipples to hold it in place instead of welding the ball joint to the axle.
All depends on how bad it is. Eventually, yes, the axle will need replacing, but it's not something that has to happen immediately if the mount isn't that bad. Personally, I'd like to get a 44 up front. Not the strongest, but it'll easily handle anything I ever throw at mine.
Last edited by no rdplz; Sep 18, 2012 at 10:33 AM.
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Joined: May 2008
Posts: 15,016
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From: +34° 25' 35.67", -81° 21' 12.04"
Year: 1993
Engine: 4.0
Glad to hear that. Unfortunately, there are people that would actually weld it in there and then send it off for someone else to deal with later.
All depends on how bad it is. Eventually, yes, the axle will need replacing, but it's not something that has to happen immediately if the mount isn't that bad. With that being the case, why stick with a D30? Yeah they're cheap, but there's better out there. Personally, I'd like to get a 44 up front. Not the strongest, but it'll easily handle anything I ever throw at mine.
All depends on how bad it is. Eventually, yes, the axle will need replacing, but it's not something that has to happen immediately if the mount isn't that bad. With that being the case, why stick with a D30? Yeah they're cheap, but there's better out there. Personally, I'd like to get a 44 up front. Not the strongest, but it'll easily handle anything I ever throw at mine.
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 417
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From: Fort Worth
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Glad to hear that. Unfortunately, there are people that would actually weld it in there and then send it off for someone else to deal with later.
All depends on how bad it is. Eventually, yes, the axle will need replacing, but it's not something that has to happen immediately if the mount isn't that bad.
All depends on how bad it is. Eventually, yes, the axle will need replacing, but it's not something that has to happen immediately if the mount isn't that bad.
Wait, wait, wait.....
Any pics of the balljoint in the "Popped Out" condition?
The castle nut will prevent the ball joint from moving upwards and the flange on the ball joint body will ptrevent it from getting pulled thru the inner C.
Then there's the lower ball joint keeping the knuckle in place as well.....
Something don't sound right.....
Any pics of the balljoint in the "Popped Out" condition?
The castle nut will prevent the ball joint from moving upwards and the flange on the ball joint body will ptrevent it from getting pulled thru the inner C.
Then there's the lower ball joint keeping the knuckle in place as well.....
Something don't sound right.....


