The voltages should stay the same when running, I just wouldn't check it at WOT with it running. Its should stay at .7 when idling

 

Hmmm..Then something is indeed screwy as I am getting 4.3 give or take .1 at idle..Knowing this and knowing the TPS has been changed any ideas what could be causing this higher voltage reading?

 

I want to say you ned to adjust the TPS.

But like you I have a 94, and mine is set (no adjustability)

The Pre-91's w/ Auto have a TPS that is adjustable, but it is a completely different critter. The manual model is more like the ones we have on our 94's but the lever on the backside is different and the inside of the wire connector also.

 

Since I have 3-4 of them I got at the junkyard which failed to fix the problem I wonder if I could take one and lengthen out the bolt holes and make it be adjustable?

 

Problem with that is that its a plastic body with metal sleeves.

Elongating the holes would just destroy it.

Have you tested all of them?
Is the voltage reading constant?

 

Well since the bolts would hold it down pretty snuggly I was thinking that even with the holes slightly elongated it might stay put..It`s not like it's under a lot of torque..I never really tested any of the junkyard ones..Just took them out of the junked Jeeps and popped them in mine..They all acted exactly the same way..Ran perfectly untill the engine gets warm and then the check engine light comes on and they act goofy..Finally bought a new one and it was the exact same thing

 

Do not try to elongate the holes you have a problem that needs to be fixed if your voltages are changing that much with the engine running. You could also have a internal PCM failure doing it. You have said the check engine light comes on what is the code.

 

Yes it`s always the same code..24 (TPS)..The manual says to check the voltage which seems to be incorrect but it also has an asterisk* which says that changing the sensor might not fix the problem..The Jeep runs perfectly until the check engine light pops on as described in above posts which to me seems to be at a time when the engine has reached a certain temp

 

And how exactly did your engine drop out? Sounds like a pretty complicated problem. Its going to be interesting to find out what fixes it. Good luck

 

I have no idea how exactly the mount broke..I was riding down a bumpy road and hit a pothole but nothing to deep and I heard a clunk and then the exhaust start to rattle a bit..Kept going and finally the fan started chewing into the shroud (I guess as the weight of the motor slowly shifted to the right)..Finally everytime I hit a small dip the fan blades would actually strike the metal of theside near the wheel well...Once I got home and examined the troubles I found that all 3 bolts holding the motor mount to the engine block had sheared clean off..They weren`t bent or twisted just a nice clean cut of all 3

 

You would need to check the voltages at the PCM with the engine running, it is easiest to due that with a scan tool. Without knowing what the PCM is seeing you are trying to fix this problem blind. But if the voltages are normal with the engine off I would guess you have a short to the signal wire or a bad PCM.

 

Not true...mine is a 93, and it's got it.

 

AKA the pick-up, or pick up coil.

Have you replaced the distributor yet? If you buy a "new" distributor with an A1-Cardone unit from the chain stores- they don't install new pick-ups inside; they re-use the OEM units. You spend $ thinking you're getting new parts inside, but buyer beware. I guess the only thing you have going for you on that one is the lifetime warranty.

 

Any updates?

 

Nothing really new to report as it`s been like 25-30 degrees the past week and I haven`t messed with it but it`s suppose to reach 50+ tomorrow and 60 and sunny on Sunday so I'll try out a few of the suggestions..I`m leaning more towards some sort of ground problem involving some sort of heat related item/sensor as the problem doesn`t appear untill the Jeep reaches a certain temp or the point where some sort of heat related item would activate..Some of the more mechanical suggestions would draw my attention more if the problem was constant throughout the driving/temp range or if it appeared more irregularly but it`s pretty much predictable to the minute as far as when it comes on based on engine temp...I`ll report back