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turn key over but only cranks and turns on sometimes.

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Old 11-22-2009, 06:58 PM
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Default turn key over but only cranks and turns on sometimes.

Hi guys,

Well i have a simple problem that i cant figure out whats wrong.
See since two weeks ago, my jeep started acting up.
What happens is i turn the key and it starts, but it dies out on me since its cold and it needs to warm up.
But thats not the problem. When this happens i turn the key and it does not crank anymore.
So i changed the battery cables and presto it started back up again.
But then a week later samething happened. I turn the key and nothing. Theres power and i hear the buzzing of the gas pump, but no crank.

So i check starter (good), cables (good), and dist. caps and plugs (good).
Next day i jus said the heck with it so i turned the key and boom it starts right up.
Im like what the ? So i turn it off again to see if it works again and no it does not fire.
Weird i know. So im thinking it might be something with the key in the ignition or something in the steering column.
Hmmmm idk im stumped lol

If anyone that even has a slight idea please enlighten me because its getting annoying to pop the clutch down the hill.
Thanks guys in advance.
Old 11-22-2009, 07:03 PM
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Originally Posted by studmuffin
Hi guys,

Well i have a simple problem that i cant figure out whats wrong.
See since two weeks ago, my jeep started acting up.
What happens is i turn the key and it starts, but it dies out on me since its cold and it needs to warm up.
But thats not the problem. When this happens i turn the key and it does not crank anymore.
So i changed the battery cables and presto it started back up again.
But then a week later samething happened. I turn the key and nothing. Theres power and i hear the buzzing of the gas pump, but no crank.

So i check starter (good), cables (good), and dist. caps and plugs (good).
Next day i jus said the heck with it so i turned the key and boom it starts right up.
Im like what the ? So i turn it off again to see if it works again and no it does not fire.
Weird i know. So im thinking it might be something with the key in the ignition or something in the steering column.
Hmmmm idk im stumped lol

If anyone that even has a slight idea please enlighten me because its getting annoying to pop the clutch down the hill.
Thanks guys in advance.
By chance did you check the starter solenoid?
Old 11-22-2009, 07:04 PM
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Since you're saying "pop the clutch downhill," it's probably safe to assume you have a manual - and that the AW4 NSS issues therefore don't apply (the AW4 is an automatic.)

Since you have an 88, you're about due - it's been 21 years. You probably need to change the electrical portion of your ignition switch, which is atop the steering column down near the firewall. It's a standard GM part, takes about a half-hour to replace (mostly because you can't see the damned thing,) and if you're a large fella, you may find it easier to remove the driver's seat.

I've run into this a couple of times, and it's because the START circuit in the switch draws an awful lot of current - the contacts heat up and gradually shift in the plastic housing.

I think the switch was about $20 last time I had to get one, but it's been a few years. Stick to BorgWarner, Standard Motor Products, or ACDelco for brands.
Old 11-22-2009, 07:12 PM
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Originally Posted by storm101
By chance did you check the starter solenoid?
hmmmm no and i have no idea where it is. lol.
Starter is fine took it to test it. But wheres the solenoid and how can i check it.

Originally Posted by 5-90
Since you're saying "pop the clutch downhill," it's probably safe to assume you have a manual - and that the AW4 NSS issues therefore don't apply (the AW4 is an automatic.)

Since you have an 88, you're about due - it's been 21 years. You probably need to change the electrical portion of your ignition switch, which is atop the steering column down near the firewall. It's a standard GM part, takes about a half-hour to replace (mostly because you can't see the damned thing,) and if you're a large fella, you may find it easier to remove the driver's seat.

I've run into this a couple of times, and it's because the START circuit in the switch draws an awful lot of current - the contacts heat up and gradually shift in the plastic housing.

I think the switch was about $20 last time I had to get one, but it's been a few years. Stick to BorgWarner, Standard Motor Products, or ACDelco for brands.
Hey kelley its been a while how have you been.
awww man i was afraid of that. so how should i start this.
Jus start taking apart the column? never done this before so dont know what to look for.
Old 11-22-2009, 08:58 PM
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dont take apart the colum theres an easyier way to do it just take the gages out and its right behind on the top side of the colum with 2 10mm bolts/screws it will have 2 wiring harness coming out of it its adjustable by the screws on it the holes they go into are sloted to move it forward and backwards put the key in the ignition and make sure the steering wheels not locked loosen the screws a little and move it back and forth and you should get the idea
heres a quick paint diagram
by the way its $9 at autozone


Last edited by thesundancekid; 11-22-2009 at 09:06 PM.
Old 11-22-2009, 09:43 PM
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selenoid it attached to the starter, its the smaller of the 2 cylinders with the connections on it. there are 3 attachments, 2 large nuts and one small. you can try acr starting to test if its isolated in selenoid or starter. you have to get and old screw driver and a frind to turn the key when you say to. get under the car and touch the first large nut to small , and try turning it over and then repeat for the second. it sparks but not bad, it basically just tests the selenoid and then tests dirrectly the starter by bypassing the selenoid
Old 11-23-2009, 02:51 PM
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Originally Posted by thesundancekid
dont take apart the colum theres an easyier way to do it just take the gages out and its right behind on the top side of the colum with 2 10mm bolts/screws it will have 2 wiring harness coming out of it its adjustable by the screws on it the holes they go into are sloted to move it forward and backwards put the key in the ignition and make sure the steering wheels not locked loosen the screws a little and move it back and forth and you should get the idea
heres a quick paint diagram
by the way its $9 at autozone

oh wow thanks for the drawing buddy. Ok i wanna try the selonoid first but i might as well change that part out. What is it exactly called.
im having trouble taking out the gauges.
Whats the right way?
Im taking off the screw and the whole thing is coming off, it has like a blue housing, is this right?
It feel like its connected in the back. If i disconnect them will it throw off the gauges?
Alot of question sorry. But jus dont wanna srew up the gauges.
Originally Posted by Troth
selenoid it attached to the starter, its the smaller of the 2 cylinders with the connections on it. there are 3 attachments, 2 large nuts and one small. you can try acr starting to test if its isolated in selenoid or starter. you have to get and old screw driver and a frind to turn the key when you say to. get under the car and touch the first large nut to small , and try turning it over and then repeat for the second. it sparks but not bad, it basically just tests the selenoid and then tests dirrectly the starter by bypassing the selenoid
Old 11-23-2009, 03:00 PM
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well the selenoid and starter are one thing that come together and if you buy new starter and selenoid its 100$ for the part not including installation but its really easy. but if you do get a new one at auto zone it comes with life time guaranty.
Old 11-23-2009, 03:13 PM
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ok, good news. now i got the gauges out. idk if to disconnect the harnesses so i jus left them on and im working around it.
Wow but its a really tight fit in there,
Im trying to find it but cant really tell. is it the part thats upright on the column or is it the one nexte to it on the left side.
Old 11-23-2009, 03:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Troth
well the selenoid and starter are one thing that come together and if you buy new starter and selenoid its 100$ for the part not including installation but its really easy. but if you do get a new one at auto zone it comes with life time guaranty.
The installation i can do its easy, i took it off this weekend to test it and it works. I didnt know that even if the starter works, the selenoid might not.
Ok im about to do the test you told me.
ok so im underneath and there are three screws. so i tell my brother to turn the key while i touch the nut/bolt from big to small.
And if there is a spark than the selenoid works right?
Did i summarize it correct?
Old 11-23-2009, 03:45 PM
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touch the black together ( big top left and bottom small) to engage and test selenoid. then red(top big right and bottom small) to engage starter without selenoid
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Old 11-23-2009, 04:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Troth
touch the black together ( big top left and bottom small) to engage and test selenoid. then red(top big right and bottom small) to engage starter without selenoid
and by touching you mean using the screw driver as a bridge to connect them right?
Old 11-23-2009, 05:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Troth
touch the black together ( big top left and bottom small) to engage and test selenoid. then red(top big right and bottom small) to engage starter without selenoid
ok i jus did that test and got results.
ok when i touched the small one with the big on (power cable to the battery one) it sparked and hummed.
But when i tried the small one with the one on the right. nothing happened.
So what does that mean.
Old 11-23-2009, 07:35 PM
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seleniod good, starter bad so ya you need a new one. you could call to an auto yard and get one for arround 35 bucks which is what I did or you can buy a new one for about 100$ with life time warranty. starter and selenoid come together one piece. its a really easy swap.

DISCONNECT BATTERY, then undo the connections you just tested. then there are 3 bolts that hold it in. two on front and one on back up high. you can see where they are pretty easy, then bolt the new one up and connect the connections again.



and a fun kill switch -https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/installed-kill-switch-10-a-27099/
Old 11-24-2009, 01:16 AM
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really? hmmmmmm
But its weird cuz i jus took it off maybe a week ago got it tested at the zone and it worked.
You think it could of been fried from one day to the other? thats weird.
Well ima do that but still think theres something else.


Oh and nice kill switch idea. you know you should take some pics and make some steps and submit it at the technical write ups.
Im sure many people would love to see this.


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