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Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go hereXJ (84-01)
All OEM related XJ specific tech. Examples, no start, general maintenance or anything that's stock.
Hey guys first post here, I just bought a 96 xj classic and she has some gremlins. I lost my last scan tool and have a new one arriving tomorrow so I cannot pull any codes at the moment.
(1) None of the windows go up or down or make a sound when any of the buttons are pushed. The relay ohms out good and the power locks work so I don't think it's the switchbox. Bad wire somewhere?
(2) The radio and dome light don't work. Fuses check out as well...
(3) headlights go on and off randomly, I can keep them on by holding the high beam flasher back but obviously this is not a permanent fix lol. Is there a common place to look for loose grounds to the headlights?
I'm completely new to jeeps and Chrysler for that matter. Life long ford man here.
I know this is a big list but if anyone can point me in the right direction on any of these matters I'd be very grateful.
Headlights and dome light go through the headlight switch, so I'd definitely consider looking there.
It's common for the wiring to get pinched in the door sleeve area, so that's another place to check out.
You should have a copy of the Factory Service Manual for your year - so I'd definitely get one asap (pacificcoastmanuals.com is usually the go-to for these) and there are all kinds of wiring diagrams for you to navigate in there.
Headlights and dome light go through the headlight switch, so I'd definitely consider looking there.
It's common for the wiring to get pinched in the door sleeve area, so that's another place to check out.
You should have a copy of the Factory Service Manual for your year - so I'd definitely get one asap (pacificcoastmanuals.com is usually the go-to for these) and there are all kinds of wiring diagrams for you to navigate in there.
I was just about to update this about the door jam deal. I've peeled back the master switch harness from one end to the other and can't find any obvious signs of wear on any wires. I took the switch apart and the only place I'm getting any power are the door lock pins. Given how massively popular the older xjs are 99% of the videos I find online or being referenced are the 97s+ which sucks.
There are loose wires and unplugged things allover the place. Someone has been up to all sorts of no good down here. All the 97+ videos say pinched wire in the door jam. I spent the entire day testing wires and I'm about to go to the junkyard and buy some hand crank doors and call it a day lol...
Note from DJ
This is where your search should start.
You need a Tan wire plugged into the Power Accessory Port in the inside fuse panel and a 30 Amp Metal Circuit Breaker plugged into the number 6 spot.
This is where your Power Windows Switch receives its 12 Volt power from.
Post back your progress.
Note from DJ
This is where your search should start.
You need a Tan wire plugged into the Power Accessory Port in the inside fuse panel and a 30 Amp Metal Circuit Breaker plugged into the number 6 spot.
This is where your Power Windows Switch receives its 12 Volt power from.
Post back your progress.
Thank you for the reply. I do have the 30amp breaker and wire plugged in. I have verified the breaker is good. I also took the master switch apart piece by piece and cleaned all the copper contacts. I'm beginning to suspect the fuse box may be bad. How would I go about testing that? I wasn't able to get a hold of the manual because I am broke and literally can't afford it lol.
edit: people usually say it's the "black wire" that ends up sheered. Should I just run a new one and see what happens?
Last edited by GalvanizedHero; 10-13-2018 at 10:05 AM.
Note from DJ
Make sure no wiring is touching anything metal first.
Then turn the ignition switch to the ON position; then remove the tan wire from the power accessory connection. Do you have 12 Volts at this point?
If yes you should also have 12 Volts to the tan wire at the master power window switch.
Post back.
Question do you have a home computer or just a smart phone?
Note from DJ
Make sure no wiring is touching anything metal first.
Then turn the ignition switch to the ON position; then remove the tan wire from the power accessory connection. Do you have 12 Volts at this point?
If yes you should also have 12 Volts to the tan wire at the master power window switch.
Post back.
Question do you have a home computer or just a smart phone?
I will try that and report back. Yes I have both. Thanks dj.
Note from DJ
Do you have an Auto or manual Trans?
You also forgot to give me the voltage reading at the power accessory connection.
5 volts at the tan wire at the window switch is way too low unless you had a bad ground connection.
I’m also going to provide you a wiring diagram of the first part of the power window circuit.
You need to find out where you lost voltage.
The one connector (C317) is probable the black connector in your photo.
Keep posting your progress.
Note from DJ
Do you have an Auto or manual Trans?
You also forgot to give me the voltage reading at the power accessory connection.
5 volts at the tan wire at the window switch is way too low unless you had a bad ground connection.
I’m also going to provide you a wiring diagram of the first part of the power window circuit.
You need to find out where you lost voltage.
The one connector (C317) is probable the black connector in your photo.
Keep posting your progress.
Oh I might have misunderstood you. I unplugged the tan wire from the fuse box and took a reading from it. It was bouncing between 1 and 5 volts I didn't realize you meant the tan wire at the switch. I have a auto trans and here is a pic of my box.
I think I've made some progress. The only way I'm able to get a 12 volt reading from the switch is by removing the tan wire from the fuse box and putting one probe in the switch marked (y) and one probe in to where the power accessory plug would go. Could this mean the plug is bad?
edit: by plug I mean the tan wire supplies power to the windows so could that wire/plug be the fault?
Last edited by GalvanizedHero; 10-14-2018 at 12:57 PM.
I think I've made some progress. The only way I'm able to get a 12 volt reading from the switch is by removing the tan wire from the fuse box and putting one probe in the switch marked (y) and one probe in to where the power accessory plug would go. Could this mean the plug is bad?
edit: by plug I mean the tan wire supplies power to the windows so could that wire/plug be the fault?
that clear plastic plug is the one I referred to earlier, that I backprobed with piggyback/bypass wires...run a 5amp wire..that fixed my issues, you should ideally fuse it to be safe...i may have even run the 5amp wire into the female plughole & jammed it with the male pin...meant to be just a test, ended up a permanent fix...i labelled the wires
10-12-2018, 11:40 AM
Trying to diagnose power windows + more!
