nabtastic

Let me start by saying this is new tie rod and the nut spins freely. My problem is that if I tighten the castle nut so that it's "snug" (I don't have a torque wrench) the hole for the cotter pin is higher than the notches on the TRE. If I push up on the TRE I can spin the nut by hand almost past the hole for the cotter pin.
It is quite possible that the OEM parts are well worn, btw.

I replaced all the tie rod components + steering damper with stock parts and/or Moog parts.

Thanks for looking.

jordan96xj

Is this problem happening where the TRE meets the existing steering knuckle?

I had a similar thing on a new knuckle, and it basically can happen under a few different conditions:

1. The cotter pin hole in the threaded portion of the stud was drilled in the incorrect location (you would think that they would use jigs to keep that from happening, but who knows).

2. If tapered hole that the stud is going through is on an existing/old part (like an old steering knuckle) it is possible that the hole has been wallowed out, allowing more of the stud to go through it than designed. Leaving the threads and cotter pin hole further away than it should be.

3. If the tapered hole is on a new component, it is possible that the tapered hole was drilled to aggressively, or with the wrong taper angle (a special type of tapered drill bit, I think it is called a ream). Leading to a similar outcome as #2.

If it is a new component, I would probably return for a new and proper one. If it was an older component, and depending on the application, and the clearance of the stud going through the hole, I might add a thick and properly sized washer to take up the gap then apply the castle nut and cotter pin. If there was any doubt as to the hole having been previously wallowed out by wear, and if the washer was not sufficient to ensure that no play remained, I would replace the old component. The washer would only be a viable option if the tapered hole was in good condition, the stud was seated properly, and only a small gap needed to be filled to bring the castle nut into closer proximity to the cotter pin hole. (to be clear, I'm not suggesting this is what you should do, only that in some cases I would consider it for myself depending on condition, application, etc.)

tech

Please post a picture

nabtastic

Passenger TRE, as example

nabtastic

Really difficult to post from my phone..

I didn't notice any wear on either attachment point (knuckle?) on the wheels or Pitman arm. However, there is a loud pop when turing from my driver side wheel which I had thought would be fixed by a new TRE - the wheel has slack when wiggling even with new TRE.

When I replaced these, I didn't know how bad they were as I had just gotten my "alignment done" at Lex Brodie's here on Oahu <2000 miles ago. Turns out all connection points were really bad, so I assume they just took me for my money...

Surely, I won't need to replace the steering knuckles right? Seems like that'd be a royal PITA..

jordan96xj

If the distance gap is very minimal (which it looks to be), then in a very similar situation on one of my ball joints, I simply tightened the nut per spec, then placed the cotter pin, and ran it down into the castle nut, using a punch to ensure it really followed the threads down and seated into the castle nut well. Keep in mind, the cotter pin is not structural in any way, as long as it resists the loosening of the nut, it will be effective. You should orient the cotter pin 90 degrees from what your are doing, that way you can pull it down hard towards the nut to help grab the castle. Then use a small punch to really make sure it engages the castle well.

The torque on the nut is what matters here. So do not skimp on that. The cotter pin is just insurance and as long as it is generally blocking rotation of the nut, you will be just fine.

tech

if you torque it to spec and the hole does not line up you never loosen the nut you just tighten it a little more so that the hole lines up for the cotter pin .

nabtastic

So.. maybe its necessary to add the grease before putting it in place? The TREs are well past "finger tight" now. Did I mention it was my first time doing this?

Incidentally, my driver side TRE is grease-less (autozone) and I'm pretty sure that hole is actually worn. I'll have to take it apart later this week and inspect.

tech

There's a 1st time for every one and your learning that's a good thing .