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Transmission slip from stop

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Old Aug 7, 2014 | 07:56 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Firestorm500
That's a relief.

Rebuilding an automatic transmission can be pricey. No, you can't do it yourself.
Probably be cheaper to get a junkyard tranny eh? assuming the junker one works. =P
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Old Aug 8, 2014 | 01:20 AM
  #17  
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Yeah, but how many times do you want to change 'em out, trying to find a good one?

If it's in a SY, it's going to have a lot of miles on it too.
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Old Aug 8, 2014 | 03:56 AM
  #18  
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Shows again why starting simple is the credo in trouble shooting automotive issues.
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Old Aug 8, 2014 | 06:02 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Roler
Shows again why starting simple is the credo in trouble shooting automotive issues.
YEP!. A franchise transmission shop would have told you the Trans is shot................
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Old Aug 8, 2014 | 07:24 AM
  #20  
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Note that you did add some wear to the bands by slipping, meaning their life will be shortened. There may be damage you don't notice or feel, so I'd suggest being careful and also plan on a filter & fluid change soon. Make sure to flush the trans lines and cooler as well using a transmission fluid flush can (pressurized can, which you can get at any auto parts store).

For the rebuild question, yes, you can rebuild them yourself, but you'll spend more buying various tools than its worth (unless you or a friend already have most of the tools). It is also a very detailed job and everything has to go in a specific order, and you must be sure to torque everything to spec and measure every single thing properly. Based on the hassle and mess, I've always preferred to have someone else build them for me. Finding a good, reputable shop can be a pain, but is worth it for someone you can trust. The shop I use is in Georgia, and I went through a half dozen reputable shops before settling on the one I use now, and I've had him build every transmission for me, my family and friends for the last 15 years. Only way I'll change is if he dies and the shop closes.
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Old Aug 8, 2014 | 05:20 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by CompleteCherokee
Note that you did add some wear to the bands by slipping, meaning their life will be shortened. There may be damage you don't notice or feel, so I'd suggest being careful and also plan on a filter & fluid change soon. Make sure to flush the trans lines and cooler as well using a transmission fluid flush can (pressurized can, which you can get at any auto parts store).

For the rebuild question, yes, you can rebuild them yourself, but you'll spend more buying various tools than its worth (unless you or a friend already have most of the tools). It is also a very detailed job and everything has to go in a specific order, and you must be sure to torque everything to spec and measure every single thing properly. Based on the hassle and mess, I've always preferred to have someone else build them for me. Finding a good, reputable shop can be a pain, but is worth it for someone you can trust. The shop I use is in Georgia, and I went through a half dozen reputable shops before settling on the one I use now, and I've had him build every transmission for me, my family and friends for the last 15 years. Only way I'll change is if he dies and the shop closes.
If you'd read my original post you'd see that I did a filter/gasket change and I would say that having the transmission drop all the fluid counts as a "fluid change". =)

I do have a friend that has every part imaginable but my main issue is that it's my daily driver. Hopefully by the time the transmission needs work I'll have another car. I enjoy challenges and rebuilding a transmission would be a good one. =]
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Old Aug 8, 2014 | 05:22 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Photontraveler
YEP!. A franchise transmission shop would have told you the Trans is shot................
Hence why I'm not quick to jump on the bandwagon of taking it to a shop. It's when it comes to stuff like electrical issues or if I'm completely at a loss will I take it in. But even then it hasn't always paid off.

I had taken my Jeep in for the overheating issue and $500 later the ECU was replaced because the electric fan wasn't apparently turning on at 217 degrees. Overheating still there.
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Old Aug 11, 2014 | 08:19 AM
  #23  
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I did read the original post, and you should consider changing it out again (hence my post). Once you have an issue and it starts to slip, you can get shavings / material in the fluid that don't come out with just draining the fluid and swapping filters. Flushing it gets everything out, and also being sure to flush the cooler as well. That will 100% ensure that you removed pretty much everything you can, and eliminate the fluid / etc. Since you didn't mention using a flushing machine or a can or two of pressurized flushing fluid, that is why I offered the suggestion.
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Old Aug 11, 2014 | 04:20 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by CompleteCherokee
I did read the original post, and you should consider changing it out again (hence my post). Once you have an issue and it starts to slip, you can get shavings / material in the fluid that don't come out with just draining the fluid and swapping filters. Flushing it gets everything out, and also being sure to flush the cooler as well. That will 100% ensure that you removed pretty much everything you can, and eliminate the fluid / etc. Since you didn't mention using a flushing machine or a can or two of pressurized flushing fluid, that is why I offered the suggestion.
Ahh got it. I read around quite a bit that doing a pressure cleaning on a transmission is one of the worst things you can do. I've heard horror stories of it causing all kinds of leaks and issues.
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Old Aug 12, 2014 | 07:37 AM
  #25  
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not pressure cleaning, as in pressure washing the outside of the case, but rather a pressurized flush, which is where you use a special can of pressurized fluid (think of it as a can of WD40, so to speak) that connects to the ports on the transmission, and flushes it out from the inside with pressure. That basically blows the existing fluid out (including the stuff that didn't gravity drain when you opened the pan).
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Old Aug 13, 2014 | 11:58 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by CompleteCherokee
not pressure cleaning, as in pressure washing the outside of the case, but rather a pressurized flush, which is where you use a special can of pressurized fluid (think of it as a can of WD40, so to speak) that connects to the ports on the transmission, and flushes it out from the inside with pressure. That basically blows the existing fluid out (including the stuff that didn't gravity drain when you opened the pan).
I know. That's what I'm talking about. The person who bought one of our cars had the transmission pressure cleaned like you're talking about and it blew out some seals. Has a constant fluid leak now.

I'm not having any issues now besides it revving a little higher than normal when shifting from 1st to 2nd resulting in it shifting a little rough. It's not 100% of the time either.
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Old Aug 14, 2014 | 07:46 AM
  #27  
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I guess you do know that driving it that low for awhile you should drop the pan and replace fluid and filter "Again" just to be on the safe side. You placed a lot of wear on the bands along with other items in the trans when you blew the lines. Like oil and filter its cheap to replace them or when you have an issue like flushing a radiator to clean it.

Maintained "Preventive" is always cheaper than repair by a long shot or I have found that to be true over the years on everything from personal cars, business trucks to race cars.
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