You can apply some weld to the hole then grind it flat and drill to the correct size.
Dan

 

I'v seen that repair posted several times using a thick washer with good results.

 

Get one of the small portable oxy/acety torch kits for the garage so this doesn't happen again.

I cut if there is a chance I might mess up whatever I am trying to remove the bolt from. If in doubt cut it out.

Faster and more fun too!

Keep an extinguisher close by too! Get the small cheapo ones if you use the fire wrench a lot like me. I usually have a couple on hand. Bushings love to catch fire!

 

This worked for mine, I feel your pain rustbelt friend. Take a side grinder and grind off the head completely. take a chisel and slip it in between the cut-off bolt head and the trackbar "pocket" open it up a 1/2". Next slip a pry bar in between the trackbar and the back side, push it forward 1/2" then slip a cutoff wheel or sawzall in the slot to cut the back side of the bolt. Watch out the bar will pop out. Finally take off the castle nut on the frame side and pop out the joint. Done.

 

To fix the bent outer lip I put the cut off track bar end into the "pocket" and beat the lip back down with a 4lb. sledge.

 

I'm going to just weld in a washer for strength. The wrap I think is cuz of my DW(reason I got the new trackbar). I have an OA torch I just can risk burning the bushing, not getting it out, and having a disabled vehicle. So i'm going to pick up a bolt tomorrow. Does anyone know what bolt is used? I think its a 1.5 thread, 60mm long, grade 10.9. I hate living in the rustbelt plus its going to snow saturday-monday so i'll have to wash the jeep again! Damn salt!

Thanks again!!

 

go to an auto parts store and get whats called a pitch fork for ball-joints

 

Glad to see i wasnt the only one fighting with a tbar today...actually had to re-thread the bolt and nut.

Size I used was 10m diameter and 1.5 thread pitch. Length and grade not sure on...

Good luck getting it back together!

 

maan, that's bad. mine came out in 3 hard hits of a hammer. i fought it for about 30 min, got tired and mad, so i hit it with a hammer. now the tapered bolt on the stabilizer was harder. i drilled a concentric hole through the center of it and kept on making it bigger. when i got to 13/32 i started hitting it with a punch and it came off in a couple of hits.

 

Have one tried it just separated the bushing form the sleeve. still no space to get anything between the nut/bracket/sleeve. If your talking about the unibody end im just going to make a cut on the nut with the grinder to get that off then take the air hammer to it, off in a second i'm sure...thats the side I thought would be hard... I picked up a 10mm bolt and some 2inch wide washers... the 10mm bolt seems to small. Was going to just weld on a piece of metal to use for prying but i'm out of feed wire.......