Does oil squirt out push tube when running?

 

I was thinking maybe the torque wrench was out of spec, but that wouldn't even matter because that shouldn't affect the rockers moving into the valves.

 

Yes, the rockers are covered in oil when i run it and then remove the valve cover

 

Was any work done b4 you got it on this area ? Almost sounds like push tube to long . If tube to long it will hold valve open.

 

When the rocker cap screw bottoms out that's the end of the line. From that point the torque only ensures the cap screw is tight. Loosening the cap screw is unacceptable. It must be torqued to 21 ft/lbs. Don't play with loosening the cap screw.


Yes, please do the compression test, and a compression loss check if you have a compressor and a set up to screw in to the plug hole.

 

Okay well i just went to the auto parts store and picked up a new pushrod. They are the same exact length as the ones in the jeep right now.

I was just messing with it again and there is NO way anything will come up on the compression test. The rocker pushes the valve open like 5 spins on the ratchet until the rocker bolt hits the bottom of the head area. wtf?

Somthing terrible must be wrong. I ordered the correct head gasket from summit, but maybe it is way to thick? I bought new head bolts and properly torqued them all down to spec, not sure if new bolts may have anything to do with it.

 

When you turn the cap screw down it should be compressing the spring inside of the lifter. If the lifter is full of oil it will act like a solid lifter and push the valve open when screwing the cap screw down. The lifters should drain down in short order, unless the oil hole in the lifter(s) are blocked, preventing bleed down.


The lifter should compress from .020 to .060 after the cap screw has bottomed out then torqueing it to spec. I'm too lazy right now but I'll post up a pic of the preload process.

It's late at this point, but it's always a good idea when the head is off to pull all the lifters and examine the cam-to-lifter face for wear and to clean the lifters by soaking them in Marvel Mystery Oil. Then pump all the oil out of the lifters using a push rod before reinstalling them.

You can attempt to bleed the lifters down by pumping the lifter using a push rod. You should eventually feel the spring in the lifter giving way. The spring is no push over - It takes effort to overcome its tension, so use a rag to grip the push rod while to try and pump the lifter down.

If a lifter won't give way/pump down, it's the bad guy.

 

I attempted to compress the lifters by hand and it was no good. I'm no a small dude, and they wouldn't budge. But when the rocker hits the top of the valve when im tightening, the gap between the bottom of the bridge screw and the head is like 1/8th of an inch, like A LOT. we aren't talking .02-.06 of an inch.

If it can't be the push rod and it cant be the rocker, it must be the lifter?

 

[QUOTE=Kale;3166285]I attempted to compress the lifters by hand and it was no good. I'm no a small dude, and they wouldn't budge. But when the rocker hits the top of the valve when im tightening, the gap between the bottom of the bridge screw and the head is like 1/8th of an inch, like A LOT. we aren't talking .02-.06 of an inch.

If it can't be the push rod and it cant be the rocker, it must be the lifter?[/QUOTE]


Correct.


Is this with all lifters or just one?


The lifters should be allowed to drain down at least over night.


It sounds like they may be gummed up. How doe it look under the valve cover when you pulled the head...all sludgy?

 

There are going to be some valves that will be open after you torque the rockers down. The only time both valves for a cylinder are closed is when it's at TDC. Torque down all of the rockers and spin the engine over by hand, then watch the valve train move.

 

I can't believe that all lifters are bad. Do a compression check on each cylinder with all the rockers installed, then post the results here.


When tightening down the rockers the applicable cylinder should be at TDC of its compression stroke to prevent twisting of the bridge.

 

I promised myself that I wouldn't offer anymore advice because I have been wrong too many times. But there really could be another cause for the issue this OP is having here and he needs to get it going.


Cam timing...When I put a new timing chain set on mine I was a bit baffled that they allowed the old "loose chain" style setup to continue through all the years of this engines history. About everyone else went to a tight chain setup on all their inline sixes that had chains instead of gears.


What I mean by loose chain is that even new there is a drooping amount of slack in the timing chain. it keeps it's self tight when turning the correct direction and there is a plastic rubbing block that is supposed to take up the slack on the top side where the chain hangs loose.


So here is what may have happened and should be checked. If the chain and rubbing block are worn all it would take is to be counter rotated while working on it and it very well could jump a tooth on the chain and crank gear. This would cause the exhaust valves to start opening before TDC instead of just after TDC.


The action of backing off the rockers would delay and compensate for this exhaust valve timing issue to let it run. To check for this just turn it over by hand in the correct rotation through the cycle on number one and watch your rockers as they push the valves. If it starts to push down on the exhaust valve before the timing mark comes up on TDC instead of just after then the cam timing is off and the chain needs attention.


Just wanted to share another possible cause to check out.

 

This was my first thought also......A bad lifter CANNOT hold a valve open. The physical height of a lifter,even if pumped up (normal) will not hold a valve open when lifter is off the cam lobe.

 

Yep, and I'm really thinking that even if there were lifter issues it would still only affect one or two cylinders but not all six cylinders equally. Chances of this would be pretty slim and only a cam timing issue could do this

 

Which Felpro gasket did you use? List part number.