Torque Converter Bolts
02-14-2009, 03:32 PM
#17
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Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 liter RENIX I-6, DIY Cold Air Intake, 2.5 FM Exhaust, 3 Core Radiator
96,
Here are the pics I promised of the the AW-4 auto tranny flywheel/torque converter inspection cover. That is it right straight across from the back side of the oil pan. Remove the 2 large nut and bolts and the 2 smaller bolts and wiggle it on out of there. It's that simple. You will see the bolt heads for the torque converter bolts on the front side of the fly wheel.
Here are the pics I promised of the the AW-4 auto tranny flywheel/torque converter inspection cover. That is it right straight across from the back side of the oil pan. Remove the 2 large nut and bolts and the 2 smaller bolts and wiggle it on out of there. It's that simple. You will see the bolt heads for the torque converter bolts on the front side of the fly wheel.
Last edited by BuckB91XJ; 07-12-2012 at 05:58 PM.
02-14-2009, 05:54 PM
#19
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Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: jasper reman 4.0
if ur tc bolts are tight from personal exp u might check the exaust isint hitting ur pan after i did mounts my noise didnt go away. when i start my jeep it bangs on pan (tomorrows project)
02-14-2009, 06:47 PM
#20
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Ok Ill get my exhaust as well too, when I took a look under there the other day it didnt look like I was missing any hangers but it did seem to be pretty close to my t-case cross member
02-16-2009, 11:20 PM
#23
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Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: AMC242
Note that a cracked flexplate could also be at issue here (if you're still working on it.) This can be checked from the same place - the inspection cover. Have a good small flashlight and a longish flat screwdriver in hand, and crawl under.
Wedge the screwdriver between the flexplate and the engine block, and gently pry! If it's not cracked, you don't want to crack it! Aim the flash up toward the hub of the flexplate and see if there's suddenly a "shelf" there - that would indicate a crack.
Repeat until you check 4-6 places around the flexplate. It may be a crack just starting.
The only headache is that you will have to pull the transmission to change the flexplate, but it can be done in a hobbyist's garage without air tools (I know - I've done it.) If you don't have air tools tho, you're going to want to have replacement screws on hand. They come from the factory with strong threadlocker on them, and you need either impact or heat to break it loose.
If you use heat, you'll want to heat the centre of the screw head until it reaches dull red - and heat the screw only! Keep your torch flame as fine as possible. Remove the screw, and throw it in the scrap bin.
Replacements can be had from the dealer or from ARP - last time, I got the set from ARP that is intended for a Pontiac (6 pcs. 1/2"-20 thread x .590" long, 12-point heads.) Be sure to apply threadlocker on the new screw threads, if it isn't there already. Be sure to also apply threadlocker to the TC screws when you replace them (place bolts, M10-1.5x15-20m/m. If you can't get them from the dealer, it's going to take some digging to find them - they're not standard hex head capscrews...)
Wedge the screwdriver between the flexplate and the engine block, and gently pry! If it's not cracked, you don't want to crack it! Aim the flash up toward the hub of the flexplate and see if there's suddenly a "shelf" there - that would indicate a crack.
Repeat until you check 4-6 places around the flexplate. It may be a crack just starting.
The only headache is that you will have to pull the transmission to change the flexplate, but it can be done in a hobbyist's garage without air tools (I know - I've done it.) If you don't have air tools tho, you're going to want to have replacement screws on hand. They come from the factory with strong threadlocker on them, and you need either impact or heat to break it loose.
If you use heat, you'll want to heat the centre of the screw head until it reaches dull red - and heat the screw only! Keep your torch flame as fine as possible. Remove the screw, and throw it in the scrap bin.
Replacements can be had from the dealer or from ARP - last time, I got the set from ARP that is intended for a Pontiac (6 pcs. 1/2"-20 thread x .590" long, 12-point heads.) Be sure to apply threadlocker on the new screw threads, if it isn't there already. Be sure to also apply threadlocker to the TC screws when you replace them (place bolts, M10-1.5x15-20m/m. If you can't get them from the dealer, it's going to take some digging to find them - they're not standard hex head capscrews...)
02-17-2009, 12:08 AM
#27
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Im guessing the flex plate is the plate you see right there that the bolts go through right? Ill check that cause the noise went away for about 1-2 days and now its back
02-20-2009, 12:30 AM
#28
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Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: AMC242
And FYI - torque specs for anything I've gotten an FSM for so far are up on my site (link in sig) under "Tech Archives." I've not had the inclination, time, or resources to work on getting more FSMs of late (been busy researching - now three! - iterations of Swappology,) but it's something that is elsewise ongoing. All specs I've got up are from FSMs or manufacturer literature, and I'm going to reorganise them into "assembly pages" one of these days - engines, axles, transmissions, ...
05-22-2010, 09:15 PM
#30
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I guess it's a common issue with the XJ's....I'm gonna have to do that myself too this long weekend....along with the dreaded heater core going bad on me.......lots of work ahead of me....any tips on what not to do woud be great....