CF Veteran
Junior Member
Hmm, sounds somewhat like a worn distributor shaft... you might try this:
Connect an inductive timing light to #1.
Fire up the motor and allow it to idle and check for correct timing.
While strobing the timing marks, give it some gas and observe the timing marks. The timing advance should be smooth.
If it backfires, does the timing jump? If it does, pull the distributor and check for excessive play in the shaft or drive gear.
Just a thought... and good luck!
Connect an inductive timing light to #1.
Fire up the motor and allow it to idle and check for correct timing.
While strobing the timing marks, give it some gas and observe the timing marks. The timing advance should be smooth.
If it backfires, does the timing jump? If it does, pull the distributor and check for excessive play in the shaft or drive gear.
Just a thought... and good luck!
Member
Plus one more on that Mike and Dan ...
Quote:
Quote:
Originally Posted by mike37
on six different occasions on different vehicles
several people have checked the firing order or distributor position
some even checked by certified mechanics
and I re check and it was the firing order was of or back wards
or distributor was set in off
I want to get my hands on this thing so bad but it way to far for me
Ditto Mike!
Idaho, she had said that at some point they had swapped in a new distributor, IIRCQuote:
Originally Posted by mike37
on six different occasions on different vehicles
several people have checked the firing order or distributor position
some even checked by certified mechanics
and I re check and it was the firing order was of or back wards
or distributor was set in off
I want to get my hands on this thing so bad but it way to far for me
Ditto Mike!
Junior Member
Quote:
Idaho, she had said that at some point they had swapped in a new distributor, IIRC
Ah, sorry, I missed that... (I should have read the first page again...)Idaho, she had said that at some point they had swapped in a new distributor, IIRC
I suggested 2 weeks ago to get a new HB but was told by several ppl that it had no effect on the problem. Hence the balancer -to balance and absorb vibration. I asked if it could be throwing off timing chain and causing to slip or wobbling the crankshaft out of balance. I was told NO not the problem.
I think male ego is getting in the way here because everytime I suggest something its brushed off and not done until a week later when he reads it here or another guy says to do it. Several things suggested here I had already suggested but it was not done til a week later. I think he might start to listen to me now.
I have read the manual over and over, highlighed and marked out pages of interest. Every break and lunch break at work is spent searching the internet for a cure/fix/solution. I have read over many jeep forums for answers. I am like a machine. I too, refuse to believe this can't be fixed, I am too determined to give up. I'm afraid it will be so simple and inexpensive to fix that I refuse to give someone else the opportunity to buy and fix it.
I think male ego is getting in the way here because everytime I suggest something its brushed off and not done until a week later when he reads it here or another guy says to do it. Several things suggested here I had already suggested but it was not done til a week later. I think he might start to listen to me now.
I have read the manual over and over, highlighed and marked out pages of interest. Every break and lunch break at work is spent searching the internet for a cure/fix/solution. I have read over many jeep forums for answers. I am like a machine. I too, refuse to believe this can't be fixed, I am too determined to give up. I'm afraid it will be so simple and inexpensive to fix that I refuse to give someone else the opportunity to buy and fix it.
CF Veteran
Quote:
I think male ego is getting in the way here because everytime I suggest something its brushed off and not done until a week later when he reads it here or another guy says to do it. Several things suggested here I had already suggested but it was not done til a week later. I think he might start to listen to me now.
I have read the manual over and over, highlighed and marked out pages of interest. Every break and lunch break at work is spent searching the internet for a cure/fix/solution. I have read over many jeep forums for answers. I am like a machine. I too, refuse to believe this can't be fixed, I am too determined to give up. I'm afraid it will be so simple and inexpensive to fix that I refuse to give someone else the opportunity to buy and fix it.
its the balancer 4.0 are notorious for the rubber going bad on the balancerOriginally Posted by karen7
I suggested 2 weeks ago to get a new HB but was told by several ppl that it had no effect on the problem. Hence the balancer -to balance and absorb vibration. I asked if it could be throwing off timing chain and causing to slip or wobbling the crankshaft out of balance. I was told NO not the problem.I think male ego is getting in the way here because everytime I suggest something its brushed off and not done until a week later when he reads it here or another guy says to do it. Several things suggested here I had already suggested but it was not done til a week later. I think he might start to listen to me now.
I have read the manual over and over, highlighed and marked out pages of interest. Every break and lunch break at work is spent searching the internet for a cure/fix/solution. I have read over many jeep forums for answers. I am like a machine. I too, refuse to believe this can't be fixed, I am too determined to give up. I'm afraid it will be so simple and inexpensive to fix that I refuse to give someone else the opportunity to buy and fix it.
then the center part can slip from the outer part
then the marks are off
you were probably doing every thing right but the starting point was bogus you had a fals TDC mark
it sounds to me like its retarded to much
if you can
loosen the distributor just enough to turn it with a little resistance
start it up and turn the dis counter clockwise slowly
see if it start to smooth out
if it get worse turn the other way slow see if it smooths out
forget the timing light go by feel
CF Veteran
Karen you sound like a smart girl
just remember just cus they have nuts don't mean they can wrench on them
just remember just cus they have nuts don't mean they can wrench on them
Member
Oh yeah ... she is smart ... would love to have her on my team any day. No doubt about the male ego too ... takes guys usually into the mid 30s to really grow up. No offense guys ...we just grow up after the girls do ... fact of life.
Quote:
it sounds to me like its retarded to much
if you can
loosen the distributor just enough to turn it with a little resistance
start it up and turn the dis counter clockwise slowly
see if it start to smooth out
if it get worse turn the other way slow see if it smooths out
forget the timing light go by feel
I kno they have been doing this thru the process and yes you can hear it start to smooth out some and bog down like its going to shut off. But it has never really helped the problem of backfire and throttle.it sounds to me like its retarded to much
if you can
loosen the distributor just enough to turn it with a little resistance
start it up and turn the dis counter clockwise slowly
see if it start to smooth out
if it get worse turn the other way slow see if it smooths out
forget the timing light go by feel
CF Veteran
Quote:
No error codes on a Renix system.Originally Posted by vistacruiser
Please try to read the codes first
CF Veteran
Quote:
No, 87-90 all the same. CPS and distributor are not adjustable.Originally Posted by ol"blue
Is it possible that the CPS and the flywheel are from different years and causing the timing issues? Is the air-gap on the CPS adjustable? A new one comes with a paper spacer that should be left on during installation. Would installing a used one without the spacer cause the gap to be too small?
The smaller the gap is the better it is.
CF Veteran
Ok i have read through all this twice and it's incredible that nobody has mentioned:
Exhaust Gas Recirculation Valve EGR stuck open or EGR pipe not mounted, tightened correctly.
Try to unplug the main vacuum to the EGR valve motor and close it.
Another thing i know fore sure on a Renix cherokee is that if you run out of fuel just a couple of times your pump will go bad.
Every time you run out of gas you need to bleed the fuel rail by turning the pump at least 10 seconds (jumper the relay) and having someone pressing the nozzle on the rail.
Hope this helps.
Exhaust Gas Recirculation Valve EGR stuck open or EGR pipe not mounted, tightened correctly.
Try to unplug the main vacuum to the EGR valve motor and close it.
Another thing i know fore sure on a Renix cherokee is that if you run out of fuel just a couple of times your pump will go bad.
Every time you run out of gas you need to bleed the fuel rail by turning the pump at least 10 seconds (jumper the relay) and having someone pressing the nozzle on the rail.
Hope this helps.
Member
Right on, Fantic ... was my stupidity on the error codes ... not being familiar with a Renix, I was actually thinkin it was OBD II at first .
.. have since learned otherwise. In fact, I have learned a bunch about these old ones on this venture myself. Maybe I'll get me one for s***ts and giggles to play around with ... what do you think is the best year and model??
Good idea on the EGR too ... she says there is 30 + psi of fuel pressure as the motor dies ... so I wonder about the pump being bad?? Could there be plenty of pressure and it still run out of fuel? I do agree about these pumps failing after being run dry too .. happens .... most cars for the last 25 or 30yrs have used this same style of pump, IIRC. Have dropped more tanks than I care to remember ... yuuk!
.. have since learned otherwise. In fact, I have learned a bunch about these old ones on this venture myself. Maybe I'll get me one for s***ts and giggles to play around with ... what do you think is the best year and model?? Good idea on the EGR too ... she says there is 30 + psi of fuel pressure as the motor dies ... so I wonder about the pump being bad?? Could there be plenty of pressure and it still run out of fuel? I do agree about these pumps failing after being run dry too .. happens .... most cars for the last 25 or 30yrs have used this same style of pump, IIRC. Have dropped more tanks than I care to remember ... yuuk!
Quote:
Exhaust Gas Recirculation Valve EGR stuck open or EGR pipe not mounted, tightened correctly.
Try to unplug the main vacuum to the EGR valve motor and close it.
Another thing i know fore sure on a Renix cherokee is that if you run out of fuel just a couple of times your pump will go bad.
Every time you run out of gas you need to bleed the fuel rail by turning the pump at least 10 seconds (jumper the relay) and having someone pressing the nozzle on the rail.
Hope this helps.
Yes the EGR was checked first thing. 1 of my cousins checked it. We can recheck it tho. And we will be doing the fuel pump then and try to bleed it properly. *Need to get O-ring kit for injectors and HB before going any further testing anything.Originally Posted by fantic238
Ok i have read through all this twice and it's incredible that nobody has mentioned:Exhaust Gas Recirculation Valve EGR stuck open or EGR pipe not mounted, tightened correctly.
Try to unplug the main vacuum to the EGR valve motor and close it.
Another thing i know fore sure on a Renix cherokee is that if you run out of fuel just a couple of times your pump will go bad.
Every time you run out of gas you need to bleed the fuel rail by turning the pump at least 10 seconds (jumper the relay) and having someone pressing the nozzle on the rail.
Hope this helps.