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Timing chain replacement dilemma...

Old Nov 19, 2016 | 02:02 PM
  #1  
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Default Timing chain replacement dilemma...

Heya all!

Replacing the T-chain on my Cherokee (2001, 4.0L) There seems to be some differing numbers on camshaft sprocket bolt torque. I researched here, on a wrangler forum, and looked it up in Some-data (Alldata) and found 3 different answers... 80 Ft lbs, 50 Ft lbs, and 95 Ft lbs, I could just shoot for the middle and go 80 but I'm a bit OCD about this sort of thing, not to mention don't wanna strip or stretch the threads (obviously)
Anyone know the real number for this?

BTW as a side note... was very surprised to find out there is no oil slinger on this motor, found information on where the oil comes from to lube the chain but since I found that part missing when I disassembled everything, I was a bit concerned (since I've never been in it before).
I saw at least one more thread here or maybe on the wrangler forum where someone was concerned about this so thought I might mention that while I was here... '01 4.0L doesn't have one.

That is all... Jeep on!!
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Old Nov 19, 2016 | 06:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Stitch65
Heya all!

Replacing the T-chain on my Cherokee (2001, 4.0L) There seems to be some differing numbers on camshaft sprocket bolt torque. I researched here, on a wrangler forum, and looked it up in Some-data (Alldata) and found 3 different answers... 80 Ft lbs, 50 Ft lbs, and 95 Ft lbs, I could just shoot for the middle and go 80 but I'm a bit OCD about this sort of thing, not to mention don't wanna strip or stretch the threads (obviously)
Anyone know the real number for this?


Your copy of the Jeep Cherokee XJ Factory Service Manual, Section 9, will list the torque at 50 Ft/Lbs.

BTW as a side note... was very surprised to find out there is no oil slinger on this motor, found information on where the oil comes from to lube the chain but since I found that part missing when I disassembled everything, I was a bit concerned (since I've never been in it before).
I saw at least one more thread here or maybe on the wrangler forum where someone was concerned about this so thought I might mention that while I was here... '01 4.0L doesn't have one.


Forget Wronglers. They are the devil's spawn.

That is all... Jeep on!!
.

Last edited by CCKen; Nov 21, 2016 at 05:30 AM.
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Old Nov 19, 2016 | 09:09 PM
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Thanks CCKen!

I suspected 80 Ft lbs was the number, however... since we use Alldata at work I was going to run with it, then I thought '50 sounds a bit light'. Unfortunately I don't have access to a "factory" service manual or I certainly would have used that.

Thanks again for the good info!
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Old Nov 20, 2016 | 06:33 AM
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Go to Pacific Coast Manuals .com and download a pdf version of the service manual. Cheap.


http://www.pacificcoastmanuals.com/j...e_manuals.html
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Old Nov 20, 2016 | 10:05 AM
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^ Like Ken said the best $7.95 you can spend ^
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Old Nov 21, 2016 | 02:59 AM
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Holy Cow, 80 ft lbs on a timing chain gear-to-cam bolt? Really? Id be worried about that too.
Lug nuts are about 100 lbs. Just sayin. I looked in a 98 fsm and couldn't find it in section 9, but I do see it appears we are talking about just one large bolt in the center of the camshaft.?..so it could be 80 I guess

Last edited by 97grand4.0; Nov 21, 2016 at 03:26 AM.
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Old Nov 21, 2016 | 05:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Stitch65
Thanks CCKen!

I suspected 80 Ft lbs was the number, however... since we use Alldata at work I was going to run with it, then I thought '50 sounds a bit light'. Unfortunately I don't have access to a "factory" service manual or I certainly would have used that.

Thanks again for the good info!

Just double checked. The torque is 50 ft/lbs.
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Old Nov 21, 2016 | 08:24 AM
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I reassembled yesterday and was surprised when torquing the camshaft bolt at how tight it was, being used to wrenching on Asian imports it seemed very stout, but I went with CCKens' number anyway.
When I got around to putting the crankshaft bolt in and found it to be 80 Ft lbs, I knew there was a discrepancy.

50 Ft lbs is the correct torque for the camshaft gear retaining bolt, but since it's already done and nothing went poorly... it stays. (shouldn't come loose... EVER) LOLOL

Thanks for all the input!

Unrelated question: Tried to attach a pic but it was upside down in the preview LOLOL... is this normal?

Stitch65
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Old Nov 21, 2016 | 06:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Stitch65
I reassembled yesterday and was surprised when torquing the camshaft bolt at how tight it was, being used to wrenching on Asian imports it seemed very stout, but I went with CCKens' number anyway.
When I got around to putting the crankshaft bolt in and found it to be 80 Ft lbs, I knew there was a discrepancy.

50 Ft lbs is the correct torque for the camshaft gear retaining bolt, but since it's already done and nothing went poorly... it stays. (shouldn't come loose... EVER) LOLOL

Thanks for all the input!

Unrelated question: Tried to attach a pic but it was upside down in the preview LOLOL... is this normal?

Stitch65
Should be ok, just don't go over any bumps. (Boom....Ping!! clunk)
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Old Nov 23, 2016 | 11:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Stitch65
I reassembled yesterday and was surprised when torquing the camshaft bolt at how tight it was, being used to wrenching on Asian imports it seemed very stout, but I went with CCKens' number anyway.
When I got around to putting the crankshaft bolt in and found it to be 80 Ft lbs, I knew there was a discrepancy.

50 Ft lbs is the correct torque for the camshaft gear retaining bolt, but since it's already done and nothing went poorly... it stays. (shouldn't come loose... EVER) LOLOL

Thanks for all the input!

Unrelated question: Tried to attach a pic but it was upside down in the preview LOLOL... is this normal?

Stitch65

Sorry for misleading you on the 80 ft/lbs. I had a '98 FSM open on my PC so I just flipped to section 9 and pulled up that torque.


Here's what I know about the cam bolt (see pics).


Up to 1998, the cam bolt head was drilled out for a tension spring and thrust pin to keep tension on the cam. The bolt had a flat washer under the head of the bolt which I think was the need for the 80 ft/lbs torque.


In 1999 the design was changed to a thrust plate for the cam and a standard (non-drilled) bolt was used with a conical washer, which dropped the torque to 50 ft/lbs - seemingly adequate to compress the conical washer.


I guess if 80 ft/lbs could be applied to a drilled head bolt I'm sure a solid head bolt could take it.


88-98 cam bolt:


Name:  98%20cam%20thrust%20pin%20and%20spring-1.jpg
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Size:  106.8 KB
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99-01 cam bolt:


Name:  99_01%20Cam%20THrust%20Plate-1.jpg
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Size:  159.0 KB
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