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Timing adjustment after head install?

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Old Dec 28, 2018 | 09:13 PM
  #1  
Justin Hughes's Avatar
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From: Houston
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0L
Default Timing adjustment after head install?

I just want to be sure about this before I assemble everything tomorrow.

Replacing 0331 w a 0331 TUPY

Everything went fine for removal, but decided to go ahead and do my front seal and crank pulley while I was in there as it definitely wobbled and there was definitely a leak.

Problem was that while removing crank pulley bolt (with head off) the crank turned. I just want to be sure that I make any timing adjustments that may need to be made before (or during) my install tomorrow if I need to. Since the head was off and the crank definitely turned.

Everything is in order, just that one question. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

2000 XJ
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Old Dec 29, 2018 | 06:16 AM
  #2  
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From: Manlius, east of Syracuse, NY
Year: 2000 XJ Sport & WJ Laredo
Model: Grand Cherokee (WJ)
Engine: 4.0L
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No, you're fine. You didn't change the timing, just the piston locations, which means nothing. As long as you haven't pulled the digital cam sensor, you're fine.

2 things to note;

1) The first head bolt on the driver's side must be sealed to prevent coolant from migrating up the threads and possibly causing a leak. It's the only head bolt that is threaded into the water jacket and it must not be torqued more than 100 lb/ft. Because there is no metal below the bolt, the block is weaker there and can crack.

2) When tightening the valve bridges, do one cylinder at a time with the valves closed on that cylinder, which means rotating the engine each time to bring it up on compression. If you tighten the bolts so that they depress the valve before they are tight, you can twist the rocker so that it isn't centered on the valve tip. This can cause the pushrods to rub on the head and the bridge bolts to eventually loosen.

Last edited by dave1123; Dec 29, 2018 at 06:33 AM.
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Old Dec 29, 2018 | 06:50 AM
  #3  
Justin Hughes's Avatar
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Thanks!

I realized that after some further reading late last night, but especially thanks for the info about the valve bridges and having the valves closed. Going to be careful there.

Going to rent a puller for the harmonic balancer, pull that mess apart, clean everything, then put it all back together.

And weld on some new studs for my air box, those 2 front nuts just snapped right off.

Thanks again, much appreciated.
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Old Dec 29, 2018 | 07:10 AM
  #4  
dave1123's Avatar
Old fart with a wrench
 
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From: Manlius, east of Syracuse, NY
Year: 2000 XJ Sport & WJ Laredo
Model: Grand Cherokee (WJ)
Engine: 4.0L
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If the balancer is wobbling, check it over good or better yet replace it. That rubber can break it's bond very easily if it's exposed to oil or coolant.
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Old Dec 29, 2018 | 07:14 AM
  #5  
Justin Hughes's Avatar
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Oh it is!

Already have a new one. And a new timing chain. Since I'm dirty, might as well.

I've read that I can use the new HB to align the front seal, do you know anything about that? Already bought a few lengths of 1/2-20 bolts to help re-seat the balancer.

thanks
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Old Dec 29, 2018 | 07:33 AM
  #6  
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Old fart with a wrench
 
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From: Manlius, east of Syracuse, NY
Year: 2000 XJ Sport & WJ Laredo
Model: Grand Cherokee (WJ)
Engine: 4.0L
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Yes, when my mechanic did my timing chain, he had an old HB that was cut away so it was just the hub and was polished out to be a slip fit. That was just to align the cover before he tightened the cover bolts. He told me it took him a while to find it the previous day because he had so many different ones in his drawers. This guy is as old as I am and a hot-rod and classic car nut. His pride and joy is a 33 Ford coupe with a Chevy 409 in it that he can start just by turning the key! He still works on cars because he likes too. Here's his newest buy; a Dodge A100 with a 318 V8 in it.

Last edited by dave1123; Dec 29, 2018 at 07:38 AM.
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Old Dec 29, 2018 | 11:01 PM
  #7  
Justin Hughes's Avatar
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dang-all! that's pretty. I saw a very similar ride pass by my shop few days back but the headlights were different. like sideways teardrops. Any idea what that could be?

balancer install was a breeze, cut up the old one and used to install seal. everything went together nicely with one exceptional bolt.

its a 2000 xj with a 3.5 lift. I run a T-case drop. My motor is definitely slanting to the rear. SYE is in the plans.

I had problems getting the 2 middle bolts under the manifold started. Got under it and shoved up on the exhaust pipe right by the pan and tried again. one bolt went, one bolt (just front side of third exhaust port) is still a no go, but I could tell it wanted to start. all the others went in easily, aside from the other one mentioned. Think I should disconnect exhaust back by cat to relieve stress? I had to use my bridge crane to coax it up onto the studs when I was putting it on since I couldn't find my dang jack.... I know that sounds dangerous to use a 5T crane to lift my exhaust up and forward 1 inch each way, but its a delicate machine in the right hands. The things you do when you're by yourself I guess.

I was considering adding a flex line piece, but I'm so close to the pan going up that I'm afraid of developing rub.

Any advice on that?

Today it got:
Water Pump
Thermostat
Timing Chain
Front Seal
HB
TUPY Head

and I cleaned the crap out of everything. my hands are busted.
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