Coraphix

this is a picture of the head, (the missing piece you kind sorta see in on the bottom left

closer, but blurrier

and this is the piece that came off, next to the two bolts, the long one still goes in and tightens, but the short on is now useless (especially since i drilled out the hole already, then i broke)

trans_am7935

BAMM!!!!!

http://www.hesco.us/forsale_s.asp?ac...312&catId=7755

there you go. i got my LS1 heads for less then this!

freegdr

,here what i would try with the one bolt thats good put the cover back on and snug it down id drill two small holes where the red xs are slowly and carefully and use two small self tapping screw to hold it down use plenty of permatex silicone gasket sealer and see if it holds,or get another head

trans_am7935

wow i didnt know you broke a piece off the block, you are gonna need to get that welded on, i dont know how much deeper the hole is to hold the bolt on.

or you could go ahead and get this

http://www.apmengineparts.com/11306k...hannelid=FROOG

but i would take it to a welder and he will fix it for like 20-40 bucks.

Coraphix

i have an 87, would that still work? and i f i go to a welder, i would still have to retap the hole to another larger bolt.

or should i try freegdr's idea with the 2 smaller holes?

freegdr

welding will work gotta remove the head and the welding shop will do the hole work for you also

Coraphix

if i could drill and tap the 2 smaller holes, how well do you think that would hold. i understand removing the head and having it welded would be a lot stronger. but that is a lot of work that im not sure if it is worth it to me.

and should i do self tapping or do my own?

Thexjfiles

X2 on the Stud idea that someone else mentioned. Always put studs in places like that, then once its in, its in for life. Never have to worry about stripping a hole in the block again.

freegdr

dont drill the two smaller hole thru the steel just into tit enough for the screw to hold the housing securly so it dont leak,your not gonna tap the head just drilling a starter hole for the self tapping screws

Lyon

Here's what sucks. You take the head off, pay the welder to repair it, try to retap it, find out it doesn't work then you're buying a head, gasket kit ect... You really need the head on a drill press to get the hole good and straight. I'd find a used head for $50 with a new gasket kit and not even bother with the welder. OR, have it welded while it's in the Jeep. You already have the housing out. Pull the pump out along with the rad fans to give you some room and have someone try to weld it. Why pull the friggin motor apart?

freegdr

it will really need to be weled from both sides

N20jeep

use a stud or some all-thread and some high strength steel epoxy(not the quick stuff) could work to hold the stud in place. and just use a nut and washer to hold the housing down, the housing will not require that much clamping force to work.

you shouldnt have to remove the head to do this and it would be worth a shot

freegdr

thats not a bad idea get a longer bolt with the same thread as it was cut off the head ang clean it real good the head and the pc that brooke off glue both the stud and pc all together and should work my son has used the two part stuff autozone serll and has had good luck with it then put a washer and nut on the stud, it was putty like gray with black inside

Lyon

Both sides of what? Do you mean on the face of the head where the gasket goes?

jronald

If the bottom bolt goes through to the water jacket....insert a bolt backwards and JB weld the backside. It now becomes a stud. Should seal just fine.

Ron