I'm thinking of just drilling another. Hole through the one already. On the crossmember that way I don't have to mess wit the bolt

 

heres what i did when my bolts pulled the threads out of the nutserts in the frame.

1. Drilled out all holes
2. Remove seats and lift carpet
3. Find holes that correspond with crossmember holes [they dont line up exactly]
4. Get proper length bolts and fishing line.
5. Fish your bolts down through the holes.
6. Tac-weld the bolts on the underside so they dont spin freely while putting the nuts on.

this took a little patience but it worked and didnt involve cutting into the unibody which will reduce integrity of the frame.

good luck.

 

Well my plan is to weld the cut portion back on after tack weld the bolts in there. The frame should be stronger afterwards.

 

if your patching over the hole just remember to use angles

 

Angles? What do you mean exactly?

 

When welding patches on to frames ive always been told to avoid doing 90* angles because they create a weak point that will break easier expesially if using mig as the weld is harder than the surrounding metal, also remember move you welds around so you dont create too much heat in one area, this is especially important on unibodys as the metal is thinner and a lot more stress is put into the unibody.


All that said i am not a certified welder but i tend to absorb a lot with knowing a few welders and having patched more than a few yota frames, and they have all held up to a lot of abuse.

good luck.

 

I'm still not understanding but did you mean don't weld around the corner to corner non stop? I work in a autobody industry and was told not to stay in the same spot or it would warp the metal. Spot weld around the plate. Same meaning or am I wrong?

 

yea same meaning but for the angles, when welding in a plate instead of welding in a square weld in a plate that has an angle too it....ok this is hard to explain.....gimmie a minute

ok black is the frame blue is the patch



hope that makes sense

 

Quick question.

If there are corresponding holes near the location of the bolt holes, why not drill a hole just large enough for a socket to fit through right above the bolt hole location (under the carpet)? I imagine a 3/4 or 7/8" hole would do. Would that still severly compromise the frame structure? Reason I ask is because I broke a bolt in one of the locations (first time), and went with the knowledge of the local hardware store and used an easy out... which broke off into the nut. I simply drilled and tapped a new hole and drilled a new bolt hole on the crossmember, however soon I will be doing an engine swap, which will most likely move the crossmember a couple of inches forward. When I remove the crossmember the second time around, I want good ol' fashioned nuts and bolts to work with... not welded plate nutsert crap.

Sorry to hijack!

 

going in from the top by pulling seat and lifting carpet is what i did with mine as i posted earlier[i think it was here i posted it] there are actually drain holes under the carpet the are pretty damn close and i drill the threads out from the underside and used fishing line to pull larger bolts down through and tacked em in place from the outside.

 

Ohh... ok. I think I understand. I was under the impression that those holes were in a location where you could just drill straight down and have complete access to the bolts/holes/etc. Nvm lol.

 

I got what you were trying to say abt the welded on plate at a angle.

 

I got what you were trying to say abt the welded on plate at a angle. I'm hoping to fix it sometimes this week.

 

yea i suppose you could easily enough enlarge the holes but i know in my 89 they werent direct access they were a bit off

 

I rather not cut my floor. I'm comfortable cutting my frame, just enough where I can access it, repair it and patch it with same thickness metal.