Sye, Driveshaft, vibrations questions
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2008
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From: Chico, CA
Year: 1986
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.3L with headers and full 3" exhaust system
I torqued on jacks and then on the ground, but i just repacked the packs last night, so im not thinking it would be a pack difference they seemed to be having the same arch. How do the shackles look now, that they arent as far down, i noticed when i switched holes it gave the springs more arch.
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From: Pa
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Registered Users
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 1,401
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From: Pa
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
ok just got done repositioning the shackles again! they are point a lil towards the bumper. From fender to ground, with stock tire size i got 35.5 inchs in the rear with a 3/8 inch difference side to side, I put the jack underneath the body and jacked it up till the tire started to lose its grip on the ground and i measured 41 and half inches. Is that good?
ok just got done repositioning the shackles again! they are point a lil towards the bumper. From fender to ground, with stock tire size i got 35.5 inchs in the rear with a 3/8 inch difference side to side, I put the jack underneath the body and jacked it up till the tire started to lose its grip on the ground and i measured 41 and half inches. Is that good?
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Joined: Mar 2009
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From: Pa
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
up front yeah i think im getting new coils and then ill see what that does with new shocks...6.5 inch coils...know anyone selling or the cheapest place to get em? how much can i get for 3 inch lift coils, i wanna sell mine
You can get 6.5" coils from rusty's for $150. There are alot of coil springs to choose from, you just gotta look around. You could sell your 3" coils for $50-$75. That's about average.
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From: Pa
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
yeah i think thats what im going to go with, and the control arms they have are 130, that with the steering drop, should be all i need for up front right?
Senior Member
Joined: May 2009
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From: North Jersey
Year: 1996 XJ Sport 2007 KJ Rubicon
Engine: 242 4.0 Ho, 226 3.7 V6
At 6.5, you basically need to replace almost everything. You CAN run the stock components but you will have one ****ty riding jeep. Control arms need to be extended or a drop bracket/long arm kit installed. Trackbar needs to be lengthened or an adjustable installed. Sway bar links need extended. Brake lines front and rear need to be lengthened. Pitman arm can stay but if you run a trackbar with a drop-bracket, you will need a drop pitman arm too. A sye kit would be a smart purchase. There are a couple other things I can't think of right now cuz I"m on two pills for this pain and it's sapping my brain power.
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Joined: Mar 2009
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From: Pa
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
At 6.5, you basically need to replace almost everything. You CAN run the stock components but you will have one ****ty riding jeep. Control arms need to be extended or a drop bracket/long arm kit installed. Trackbar needs to be lengthened or an adjustable installed. Sway bar links need extended. Brake lines front and rear need to be lengthened. Pitman arm can stay but if you run a trackbar with a drop-bracket, you will need a drop pitman arm too. A sye kit would be a smart purchase. There are a couple other things I can't think of right now cuz I"m on two pills for this pain and it's sapping my brain power.

Only need the drop pitman arm if the trackbar gets dropped too. The t-bar and draglink are like a married couple. They have to be parallel to have proper steering (or functional marriage). If one is dropped and the other stays put then you'll have bumpsteer.
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From: Pa
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
cuz you just said you plan on getting one anyways 
Only need the drop pitman arm if the trackbar gets dropped too. The t-bar and draglink are like a married couple. They have to be parallel to have proper steering (or functional marriage). If one is dropped and the other stays put then you'll have bumpsteer.

Only need the drop pitman arm if the trackbar gets dropped too. The t-bar and draglink are like a married couple. They have to be parallel to have proper steering (or functional marriage). If one is dropped and the other stays put then you'll have bumpsteer.
Some trackbars come with a bracket that replaces the oem bracket and lowers the trackbar for better suspension angles. When this happens, the pitman has to be lowered too in order to keep both on the same angle.


