Good grief. Grind the head of the TORX bolt off and replace with a new grade 8.

 

No. It’s not as simple as that.

I had to drill mine out. If the OP can’t get the nut to budge using heat and oil, I suggest drilling the bolt out from the torx end using that torx divot as a centered pilot hole. THEN replace with a grade 8.

 

That ^

Get as close to the stud as possible without hitting the threads. A hacksaw works, but will take forever. Once you are deep enough, grab a chisel and hammer it into the groove (or use a nut buster if you have one). The nut will open up and fall off. Wear safety glasses.

If all goes well, all you will need is a new nut.

 

So... Grind it off? I don't see the difference between drilling the head of grinding the head off with a cutoff wheel... No matter WHAT happens, the bolt will need to be replaced.

 

The bolt is splined and pressed in. If the head is cut off, the bolt will still need to be pressed out of the hole.

 

Just Dremel the nut.

 

Here is a picture of the new ones I got from the dealer. I used my ball joint press to press it in.

I have one side with the pressed in bolt and the other side a regular bolt without the splines. I don't think it makes a big difference.

 

I went back at this tonight.

I was able to get my 5' long pipe onto the 1/2" breaker bar and stood on it.
That got it to break loose

Once the nut was off, the end link was very hard to remove.
I alternated between pry bars, pickle fork with 4lb hammer, and yanking it back and forth.
I wonder if the rubber was melted from the MAPP.
After 20-30 minutes, eventually it started to spin freely, and I got it off.
I've got no natural aptitude for this stuff.
What would have been the quickest way to remove it ?

Torqued top nut to 45lbs,
and bottom nut to 70lbs.

 

I have a question about the correct procedure for reinstallation.

Before tightening anything, I slid the new end link onto the bolt.
It felt like the end link was going on crooked (see photo)
Is is supposed to slide fully on with ease?
I wished the sway bar was loose, so the end link would seat flush.
Instead, I got it on crooked, as far as it would go (see photo #1)
and then just impacted it until it was more fully seated.

I did this with the car on the ground.
Are you supposed to release tension on the sway bar somehow?
If I jacked the wheels off the ground, would that do anything?

 

Pretty sure your link is facing the wrong way. That's why it is crooked.

Also, to install one side you have to release the other side top link nut so you can swing the sway bar up. Then you lower it on both links and tighten bolts evenly.

 

I'll compare it to the other side in the morning.

 

Throw anti-seize on that bottom nut when you put it back on so if you ever have to take it off again it'll be less of a headache.

 

Good call.

Tonight, I removed the other end link, and corrected the orientation.
Both end links are now replaced.

The other side was fun.
The sleeve was rusted onto the stud, so it ripped off the from the rubber bushing.


I got my Channel Locks and grab......grab.....grab.....and finally start to spin it
After a few minutes, it came free...

 

And Bikini Bottom celebrated, lol

 

That's too much, edge of the bushing should be even with the washers, not all squished out like that.