Super stiff clutch pedal, hard shifting 5 spd
11-28-2011, 01:53 PM
#16
Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Chattanooga,TN
Posts: 174
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Bring back a really old thread. Last wednesday I replaced the master/slave combo on my 98 xj 4.0 ax 15 (external slave) with a sealed pre bleed one from rock auto and it was like driving a new jeep, no more grinding in reverse and the gears shifted like butter .I drove about 350 miles to see family for thanksgiving it worked great until yesterday and now it is back to hard shifting just like it was before. But every once in a while it will shift like it did right when i replaced the master/slave which makes me belive there is air in lines, because sometimes it works perfect and other times it shifts hard. Could I have gotten a bad master/slave combo from rock auto? Any tips yall could think of to make it work better. Anyone had or heard of this where it worked great for a week and then seemed to just go back to having the same problem over night.
12-14-2011, 08:16 PM
#17
Newbie
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Model: Cherokee
so on my 1999 sport i was driving home and the clutch pedal went to the floor when i was heading to a stop light so i pulled it took it out and put it back in and it was stiff. now when ever i start it and try to go into the gears i can't what would be the cause of this
12-14-2011, 10:22 PM
#18
CF Veteran
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Nor-Cal Coast
Posts: 10,489
Likes: 0
Received 17 Likes
on
17 Posts
Year: 90,84
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0,2.5
Sounds like your clutch master cylinder might be giving out. If the fluid is staying up, not leaking, and the pedal goes down, that's probably it. How's the pedal feel?
Welcome btw! Normally you would click on "new thread", at the top and post your problem that way. Makes it less confusing. No grinding!
Welcome btw! Normally you would click on "new thread", at the top and post your problem that way. Makes it less confusing. No grinding!
12-15-2011, 04:20 PM
#20
CF Veteran
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Nor-Cal Coast
Posts: 10,489
Likes: 0
Received 17 Likes
on
17 Posts
Year: 90,84
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0,2.5
Guess the fluid is up, and has been? Does sound like the clutch master cyl. Was me I'd try bleeding it, (that will flush it with fresh fluid also), then from there, if it's not leaking and still not right, that pretty much leaves the master cyl.
Reaching the bleeder can be easy or hard, depending on how you look at it.
OH WHOOPS! 99? MIGHT HAVE AN INTERNAL SLAVE CYL. (SEE THE BOOK)
Reaching the bleeder can be easy or hard, depending on how you look at it.
OH WHOOPS! 99? MIGHT HAVE AN INTERNAL SLAVE CYL. (SEE THE BOOK)
Last edited by DFlintstone; 12-15-2011 at 04:23 PM.
12-15-2011, 05:13 PM
#22
CF Veteran
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: knoxville, tn
Posts: 3,966
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 98 4.0 I6
Originally Posted by leecarr
I hate hydraulic clutches, one thing I did was disconnect the safety switch so I can start it in gear if need be.
12-15-2011, 06:34 PM
#24
CF Veteran
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Nor-Cal Coast
Posts: 10,489
Likes: 0
Received 17 Likes
on
17 Posts
Year: 90,84
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0,2.5
Under the hood on the firewall, lined up with the clutch pedal. I'm getting that maybe you haven't checked the fluid? DOT 3 brake fluid is what my 84 uses. It's normal to need to add some time to time, (for mine). As the clutch disk wears the piston in the slave cylinder moves out. Same as brake rear slaves, (in the drum's), and caliper pistons up front, (with disk's).
Your 99 clutch slave might have some other deal, but you still need to check all your fluids regularly.
Your 99 clutch slave might have some other deal, but you still need to check all your fluids regularly.
12-17-2011, 02:14 PM
#25
Seasoned Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Mass.
Posts: 320
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
On my 99 the switch is on the shaft from the pedal to the master cylinder, when I replaced the master cylinder I just yanked it out and shorted out the wires. It allowed me to shut off the car, put it in gear and drive out of the road on the starter.
12-17-2011, 02:19 PM
#26
Seasoned Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Mass.
Posts: 320
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
One other thing I read was you are not supposed to resurface the flywheel much because it is concave or convex (can't remember witch), they recommend you replace it. I had mine redone before I knew that and it didn't seem to affect anything.
10-13-2013, 05:05 PM
#28
Newbie
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Suburban Washington DC
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1994
Model: Grand Cherokee
While all lines are still hooked up and the master cylinder cap is off, remove the slave cylinder from the outside of the transmission (2 bolts).
Point the rod end of the slave cylinder down toward the ground, and push the rod in slowly and consistently several times. (I ended up pumping it about ten times before I checked the reservoir)
On the first pump I heard the sound of air in the system moving up, and after the next round of pumping I found that the master cylinder fluid level dropped by about a half an inch!
I refilled the reservoir, pumped another ten or so times, only had to put a few drops back in, capped it off, bolted the slave back up, and Bam! Good Pedal!
The truck now easily shifts into all gears while moving or stationary, and the pedal grabs about 1.5-2" off the floor rather than on the floor.
Point the rod end of the slave cylinder down toward the ground, and push the rod in slowly and consistently several times. (I ended up pumping it about ten times before I checked the reservoir)
On the first pump I heard the sound of air in the system moving up, and after the next round of pumping I found that the master cylinder fluid level dropped by about a half an inch!
I refilled the reservoir, pumped another ten or so times, only had to put a few drops back in, capped it off, bolted the slave back up, and Bam! Good Pedal!
The truck now easily shifts into all gears while moving or stationary, and the pedal grabs about 1.5-2" off the floor rather than on the floor.
11-05-2013, 09:18 AM
#29
Newbie
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Suburban Washington DC
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1994
Model: Grand Cherokee
11-13-2018, 06:04 PM
#30
Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: MO
Posts: 199
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
Hey guys,
I am having the identical issue as the OP, opake. However, mine seem to be dependent on the vehicle temperature.
When cold:
light clutch pedal
smooth shifting
quick gear syncing (both when stopped and moving)
When driving 20+ minutes or sooner with stop and go:
heavy clutch pedal
hard shifting
very difficult to get into gear when stopped
very slow to gear sync when moving
when bumping the 1st gear shift gate / syncro, the vehicle actually bumps forward and/or I can hear the drivetrain rock.
Any ideas?
I am having the identical issue as the OP, opake. However, mine seem to be dependent on the vehicle temperature.
When cold:
light clutch pedal
smooth shifting
quick gear syncing (both when stopped and moving)
When driving 20+ minutes or sooner with stop and go:
heavy clutch pedal
hard shifting
very difficult to get into gear when stopped
very slow to gear sync when moving
when bumping the 1st gear shift gate / syncro, the vehicle actually bumps forward and/or I can hear the drivetrain rock.
Any ideas?