Stupid Rattling Noise
#1
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Stupid Rattling Noise
Alright Im not sure what to call these but ill say cross memeber for the roof. Anyway they have came unglued from the roof so went I turn my radio up (with a 12" sub) the roof will rattle and move up and down. How can I go about gluing these to hold the roof in place?
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I thought about putting some type of rubber inbetween to maybe put pressure on the roof to see if it would help but Im open to suggestions
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have you tried turning down the stereo?
no, but seriously
step 1: you have to clean out all that glue residue
step 2: if the surface is smooth, you'll have to roughen it up a bit with a scotchbrite pad or sandpaper.
step 3: you can use liquid nail, 2 part epoxy resin, or some other heavy duty adhesive. what ever your choice you will want to use a 2x4, broomstick, or something to force the support against the ceiling while curing/drying.
no, but seriously
step 1: you have to clean out all that glue residue
step 2: if the surface is smooth, you'll have to roughen it up a bit with a scotchbrite pad or sandpaper.
step 3: you can use liquid nail, 2 part epoxy resin, or some other heavy duty adhesive. what ever your choice you will want to use a 2x4, broomstick, or something to force the support against the ceiling while curing/drying.
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Clean both surfaces thoroughly then a strip of acrylic high bond adhesive. You will have to devise a method of clamping it together for 24 hours at above 60F. Follow by the factory mat board and headliner material. Even without a sub that must sound like you are riding around in a dumpster. Echo, echo, echo......lol
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#8
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have you tried turning down the stereo?
no, but seriously
step 1: you have to clean out all that glue residue
step 2: if the surface is smooth, you'll have to roughen it up a bit with a scotchbrite pad or sandpaper.
step 3: you can use liquid nail, 2 part epoxy resin, or some other heavy duty adhesive. what ever your choice you will want to use a 2x4, broomstick, or something to force the support against the ceiling while curing/drying.
no, but seriously
step 1: you have to clean out all that glue residue
step 2: if the surface is smooth, you'll have to roughen it up a bit with a scotchbrite pad or sandpaper.
step 3: you can use liquid nail, 2 part epoxy resin, or some other heavy duty adhesive. what ever your choice you will want to use a 2x4, broomstick, or something to force the support against the ceiling while curing/drying.
#9
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It's been a looong time since I've had the headliner out on an XJ (couple of times on the '85) so I don't remember how tightly the roof panel and crossmembers were joined from the factory, but I wouldn't stress them to get them any closer than they normally are.
I tend to use two part liquid epoxy for this sort of adhesion and a close fit is in no way needed to bind the two surfaces together forever. No clamping is required as there is no advantage to a thin glue line. Liquid Nails might do just as well but I've only used it on wood so can't comment.
I don't know whether this rigid structure is desirable from an automotive structural stand-point in an SUV.
If there is a sufficient gap, I personally would use some form of rubber compound for the improved acoustic properties where it is almost always better to isolate various expanses of sheet goods.
I tend to use two part liquid epoxy for this sort of adhesion and a close fit is in no way needed to bind the two surfaces together forever. No clamping is required as there is no advantage to a thin glue line. Liquid Nails might do just as well but I've only used it on wood so can't comment.
I don't know whether this rigid structure is desirable from an automotive structural stand-point in an SUV.
If there is a sufficient gap, I personally would use some form of rubber compound for the improved acoustic properties where it is almost always better to isolate various expanses of sheet goods.
#11
No need in wedging anything anywhere just set something on the roof to compress your roof back down while drying so you don't run a chance of warping something in the frame cause it is a unibody design
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Look at pics again roof is curved on top brace is not .Brace needs to go up to meet contour of roof do it the otherway will cause swimming pool on roof during rains ....
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of course you could always just stuff some insulation or a chunk of Styrofoam or something like it in there to keep it from rattling till ya figure out what ya wanna do.
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Year: 1999
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Yes, (They walk among us for sure."The factory uses an adhesive to hold it to the roof and seldom do you see them separate, a constant boom, boom, boom could very well cause them to come loose when they are aged and no headliner or backboard.
If you know nothing about epoxy (preferred) then use Liquid Nails it comes in a tube you place in a calking gun then all you do is pull the trigger. It must repeat MUST be braced from the inside to get a good seal not so tight it pushes the roof up but solid against the roof.
Once your done have your headliner replaced, you did save the fiberboard didn't you?? If not you will have to buy one of those also I just had mine recovered cost $110 including the sun visors. Cheaper than a few of those Boom CD's
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Year: 1993
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The epoxy idea sounds like a good idea but since the weather around here has been flippin cold cant really do much. What type of epoxy would yall recommend for this?