No access to an air impact.

PB Blaster soak and a 4' cheater bar didn't break 'em loose. Minimal rust since this is New Mexico.

Any suggestions on how to get these suckers off? Longer cheater?

 

Put the cheater bar on the nut.

Drive forward slowly until the bar is resting on the ground. Ease on the gas until the nut comes loose and the Jeep can move forward. That's on the passenger side.

If it's on the driver's side, back up.

Lefty loosy, righty tighty.

 

I broke a 1/2 inch gm breaker bar and 2 sockets before finally borrowing a big *** impact from a guy

 

Man, been there with road side assistance to a friends vehicle, that really sucks, often a result of some nut installing with and impact and/or grit lock.
Try alternately hitting with impact or even breaker bar tighten/loosen/tighten/loosen alternating, then loosen. After a prolonged impact gun session the whole socket and end will heat up, really and abuse of the impact but in severe cases the heat has transferred to the fastener and I believe assisted in the final removal. Sometimes I've spent 10 min on one fastener, really a pita at the time.
May raise some flac and contrary opinions, but I ALWAYS apply anti seize, it's the favour you do for yourself in the future.
Torque to 90 and then again to 100 ft lb. Next day retorque again to 100 ft lb. If you've been off roading, retorque to 100 ft lb. For 1/2-20 studs, More torque is TOO much.
If this isnt working you may have to take a propane torch and heat to the wheel nut.

 

I just replaced my front hubs and went through this. I used a 1/2" drive craftsman ratchet and the bottom half of my jack handle as a cheater to break it loose.

 

GM makes tools? ha ha.
If you buy quality, you'll only cry once, there is a lot less chance of getting injured in the process too!

 

I used a cheap-o 1/2" breaker bar from harbor freight with like a 5-6 ft pipe on it, had to stand on the pipe and bounce up and down a lil while holding onto the jeep for balance but it broke em both loose, and this was with a XJ that had over 200k miles on it.

 

Interesting idea, would have never thought to give that a try but I can see it working.

 

Thanks for the input, folks! Broke 'em loose this morning, after sitting for another night in PB Blaster. 1/2" drive breaker with 4' of cheater.

Also, got the three bolts (x2) out and am now struggling to to actually get the hubs off the knuckles. Have tried the socket extension/steering trick and also used a wood block and a 3lb sledge on the bolt heads. No bueno - other ideas?

 

Put one of the bolts about halfway in and turn your steering wheel to press the hub off.

I think you use the rearmost bolt and press it against a front end part. I've seen this mentioned in the past on here, but I have never had to do it.

You can also get a hub puller from the loan-a-tool program at Autozone or O'Reilly's.

 

This was a new one on me after over 50 yrs thanks for that post, I learn every day.


I wish more people would listen to this and buy good tools as they really are a lifetime investment and should be considered as such. Just divide the price by 60 yrs then that by 365 to see what they really cost for quality.


Just like a tool box I bought the ones I have now 35 yrs ago a 3 tier box along with 2 side box's all Mac and even that long ago still cost $5900. The reason they so cheap my best friend was a Mac Tool Dealer.


Good tools can save your life period over junk! On impacts "Always" use impact sockets that is what they were made for and never set the gun for max smoke for tightening bolts, nuts "EVER"!

 

Hubs are off and axle shafts out and rebuilt!

The socket extension trick worked on one side - I had to use a hub puller and a lot of elbow grease on the other side...

Appreciate y'alls helpful input and conversation!