Ok I tried to search for this but didn't have any results so if there's something out there I missed, sorry. I went to change the oil on my "project" and found a rubber plug instead of the drain plug. When I pulled it out all the oil had already leaked out and the threads were stripped. Any idea on what size threads we have and if anyone had retapped their drain plug hole. Thanks, Coach.
Seasoned Member
Go to a junk yard and pull one off. that way you can get one size bigger. Don't think heli coils would work on a pan. Another option is to have a nut welded to the hole and just find a bolt that will fit the nut.
CF Veteran
a standard helicoil for spark plug repair will work for this. The kit will give you a bit and tap to resize the hole and then you can purchase a 14mm x 1.25 (i think thats the size) drain plug and gasket from your local auto parst store.
Senior Member
they used to sell a new drain plug for this exact problem. it is cut like a starter tap on just the first couple threads to make new ones when you screw it in. check with your local parts house
Ok I found out that it is a 14mm x 1.25, now I just have to find the kit. NAPA didn't have one. I'll put the plug back in before I buy an oil pan. Coach
CF Veteran
Actually, I'm wanting to think it's threaded 1/2"-20...
Anyhow, here's the easy way - go to the local, and they should be able to look it up in the Dorman/Motormite HELP! catalogue.
Most sump plug thread sizes that are sold give you the option of a "single oversize" plug, and some will even do a "double overize." (in case the single O/S gets stripped out.) Buy yerself the 1 O/S plug and let it cut its own thread the first time (just be careful to actually start it in the thread every time after that.)
Plan B - Heli-coil or thinwall thread bushing. Drill, tap, and install (there's not a lot of material to work with there, but there is some. IIRC, the inside side of the sump bung is about a 1/2"-20 nut.) I've used Heli-Coils with good results on liquid fittings that had to hold upwards of 150psig, so an oil sump plug should be no trouble. Just take a moment to apply a little RTV to the outside of the thread insert for insurance (if you use a bushing, you're going to use LocTite on it - which will function as a sealer as well anyhow. My first choice would be LotTite #545 threadlocker - it's meant for sealing and locking fittings in hydraulic setups, and I've used it to seal fittings holding up to 1,500psig)
Plan C - Pick up a replacement sump and change it. Buy a plug before you put it in, so you know you've got one that will seal.
Plan D - Weld a bung and use a new plug. I mention this one last because welding on the sump really should be done with the sump removed and cleaned (so you don't get slag or sparking up into your engine internals, and so you don't have to lie there and breathe oil vapours. Yech.)
Anyhow, here's the easy way - go to the local, and they should be able to look it up in the Dorman/Motormite HELP! catalogue.
Most sump plug thread sizes that are sold give you the option of a "single oversize" plug, and some will even do a "double overize." (in case the single O/S gets stripped out.) Buy yerself the 1 O/S plug and let it cut its own thread the first time (just be careful to actually start it in the thread every time after that.)
Plan B - Heli-coil or thinwall thread bushing. Drill, tap, and install (there's not a lot of material to work with there, but there is some. IIRC, the inside side of the sump bung is about a 1/2"-20 nut.) I've used Heli-Coils with good results on liquid fittings that had to hold upwards of 150psig, so an oil sump plug should be no trouble. Just take a moment to apply a little RTV to the outside of the thread insert for insurance (if you use a bushing, you're going to use LocTite on it - which will function as a sealer as well anyhow. My first choice would be LotTite #545 threadlocker - it's meant for sealing and locking fittings in hydraulic setups, and I've used it to seal fittings holding up to 1,500psig)
Plan C - Pick up a replacement sump and change it. Buy a plug before you put it in, so you know you've got one that will seal.
Plan D - Weld a bung and use a new plug. I mention this one last because welding on the sump really should be done with the sump removed and cleaned (so you don't get slag or sparking up into your engine internals, and so you don't have to lie there and breathe oil vapours. Yech.)
Thanks for all the replies, I picked up a helicoil kit last night, gonna try it tonight. Coach.
Newbie
Easy repair with time sert kit from
www.timesert.com
www.timesert.com
CF Veteran
Quote:
Coulda been Wal*Mart. They excel at that sort of thing. They probably buy the rubber plugs by the case.Originally Posted by JeepingDan
I would just put another pan on and get rid of that jiffy lube hacked pan.
CF Veteran
one thing about these every thing there screwing in to is alluminum our pans are steel with a nut welded to them


