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Stripped lugnut

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Old Nov 29, 2013 | 02:38 PM
  #1  
THEBIGWHITEONE's Avatar
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From: Fort Myers
Year: 1998
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Default Stripped lugnut

I got a badly stripped lug nut....I beat on a smaller socket and hit it with a breaker bar and stripped it worse. Recommendations on a tools or a solution?
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Old Nov 29, 2013 | 02:56 PM
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What kind of wheels and lug nut do you have? If they are the stock ones you can get a Dremmel with a cutting wheel and cut into it as much as possible then finish splitting it with a hammer and chisel. I had to get one off and that was the easiest way I was able to do it.
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Old Nov 29, 2013 | 03:05 PM
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Originally Posted by RTorrez1
What kind of wheels and lug nut do you have? If they are the stock ones you can get a Dremmel with a cutting wheel and cut into it as much as possible then finish splitting it with a hammer and chisel. I had to get one off and that was the easiest way I was able to do it.


here ya go.....as you can tell I put a lot of pressure on it and have yet to move it. The lug nuts are cheap the caps had already some off some of these. I may weld a 3/4 extension to it and nail it with the impact. I was think of those locking lug nut removers?
Attached Thumbnails Stripped lugnut-phot1o.jpg   Stripped lugnut-photo.jpg  
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Old Nov 29, 2013 | 03:09 PM
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Get the nut good and hot with a torch and then use one of these little babies... Best $25 I had spent on tools... Works great with nuts and bolts that are super rusty too...

http://www.harborfreight.com/9-piece...ets-67894.html
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Old Nov 29, 2013 | 03:40 PM
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I suggest drilling out the threads till the nut let's go then replace the stud. Using heat around wheels and tires is sketchy.
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Old Nov 29, 2013 | 04:03 PM
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I wasn't suggesting getting it red hot... Just a couple hundred degrees... Ya wouldn't want it to get glowing hot like dirt track car brakes and hubs get... If ya drill out the end of the Accorn nut that allows ya to add some penetrating oil into the situation too... The sockets I posted about hold strong enough to even use a breaker bar on em...
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Old Nov 29, 2013 | 04:41 PM
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Just drill them out its safer then a getting it hot, even if your not center the hole will allow for the lug to pretty much break loose.
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Old Nov 29, 2013 | 04:42 PM
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Not sure how much of a smaller socket you used or if it was 6 pointed but the last time I stripped one I got a 12 point socket that was a good bit smaller and pounded it on there
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Old Nov 29, 2013 | 04:55 PM
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Before welding or heating remove the valve core, hopefully you won't get any surprises.
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Old Nov 29, 2013 | 05:28 PM
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If it were a broke stud, you would try an Easy-out on it... These are basically and external version of an Easy-Out... They come in both Metric and English standard sizes... I have both sets and have found them to be a valuable addition to the tool box...

http://www.harborfreight.com/9-piece...ets-67897.html


http://www.harborfreight.com/9-piece...ets-67894.html
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Old Nov 29, 2013 | 07:17 PM
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Take it to tire place, had a gorilla luck removed for free, only took five minutes. They have the tools and know how to deal with it safely.
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Old Nov 29, 2013 | 08:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Miceanic
Take it to tire place, had a gorilla luck removed for free, only took five minutes. They have the tools and know how to deal with it safely.
This. Most tire shops will do it for free if you buy a lug nut. There are sockets made for removing stripped lug nuts and wheel locks.
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Old Nov 29, 2013 | 11:49 PM
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I sort of like Edz link in post #4. http://www.harborfreight.com/9-piece...ets-67894.html


Heat it first, and you win if it snaps off. X2 on a shop, at least see what they say.
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Old Nov 29, 2013 | 11:56 PM
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Originally Posted by wiggles
I suggest drilling out the threads till the nut let's go then replace the stud. Using heat around wheels and tires is sketchy.

X2........ Had to do this to 3 that seized on me a few years ago, best option.
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Old Nov 30, 2013 | 01:34 AM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by wiggles
I suggest drilling out the threads till the nut let's go then replace the stud.
Doable for the seasoned. No piece of cake for just anyone. With a dimple center-punched in the end of the stud, (behind the nuthead), slowly, with say, tranny fluid and a 3/8 drill? Or maybe start with a 1/8 pilot hole, slowly again, watching for cutting and not overheating or going too fast.

A great learning thing for a mechanic, (it's just a wheel), or something a shop shop might do without a second thought. (just tell them to balance that wheel!)
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