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Stock leaf springs - Dorman

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Old Sep 23, 2015 | 10:08 PM
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Default Stock leaf springs - Dorman

I recently installed stock dorman leaf springs, the same ones many people

have, but they are very soft. I drove through a dip fairly fast and the bump

(Street driving) stops slammed againts the axle tube.

Good thing I installed new stops at the same time.

Whats the best way to stiffen up the leaf springs/rear suspension?

Also, when I bought the bump stops there were two choices, I think it was

4" and 2.5" I went with the 4"

Also, the shocks are new but not a name brand.
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Old Sep 24, 2015 | 07:22 AM
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Shorter snubs are the right ones for stock springs.
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Old Sep 24, 2015 | 07:32 AM
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Yes on the snubs, shorter ones, and only way to keep stockish height and have firmer springs is to get the HD ones. Net usually 1" over stock unless you start going into OME and remove leafs and such. As for bottoming out. That happens to me and I'm lifted 4.5", run no sway bars. That's what snubbers are for. To protect shocks and fenders and to avoid metal to metal slamming against each other.
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Old Sep 24, 2015 | 10:59 AM
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So I will get the shorter stops. I was also reading up, maybe I should switch to so stiffer shocks.
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Old Sep 24, 2015 | 12:46 PM
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Adding a stiffer shock (more damping) will give a firmer ride but won't stop the leaf spring from compressing if you drive into a dip at speed. I don't think that's a solution. BTW, I put those larger axle snubs on mine, too; I ordered the wrong ones.
I haven't noticed any issue with bottoming as yet. My new Dorman leafs seem a good deal firmer than the worn out OEMs. I have a set of Monroe OESpectrum shocks. I'm very pleased.
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Old Sep 24, 2015 | 01:29 PM
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Originally Posted by sycoglitch
Yes on the snubs, shorter ones, and only way to keep stockish height and have firmer springs is to get the HD ones. Net usually 1" over stock unless you start going into OME and remove leafs and such. As for bottoming out. That happens to me and I'm lifted 4.5", run no sway bars. That's what snubbers are for. To protect shocks and fenders and to avoid metal to metal slamming against each other.

Exactly if all else is new as you say and up to par.


As for the shocks those will depend a lot on where you drive the most and cheap shocks are just that cheap. I run Bilstein on both my XJ with a 4 1/2" lift and my 04 WJ stock DD a medium priced shock with good performance.


As your aware shocks can run from $10 to several hundred or more each so pick the best you can afford without breaking the bank.
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Old Sep 25, 2015 | 07:01 AM
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How about something like this?

I know these are for worn out springs but I figure since I have new springs the load may be evenly distributed between them and the the helpers would not wear out as fast.
I decided I am going to go ahead with a custom rear bumper and I am afraid the extra weight will make the rear sag along with all the gear I have in the back.

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/fix...k-susp-131271/
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Old Sep 25, 2015 | 07:33 AM
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The longer bump stops are limiting up-travel. Replacing them with correct size would be the first step.
If you want to see what is going on, crawl under it with a tape measure. Measure from bumpstop to axle tube, this how much 'up' is allowed.
Then measure the remaining up-travel of shock, this is how much 'up' that is available.
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Old Sep 25, 2015 | 07:42 AM
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Originally Posted by sycoglitch
As for bottoming out. That happens to me and I'm lifted 4.5", run no sway bars. That's what snubbers are for. To protect shocks and fenders and to avoid metal to metal slamming against each other.
If bottoming is an issue, look into progressive bumpstops. They are absorbing, unlike the hard rubber stops. Just have to be set up to account for the compression.

Or, BDS 7-leafs.

Up front, Prothane inserts
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Old Sep 25, 2015 | 08:30 AM
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The bump stops hitting is one issue, more important is that these new leaf springs seem very soft and I can foresee the rear sagging lower than the front pretty soon.

I am wondering if those helper springs would be too stiff, they are only like 40 bucks.

After I replaced both the leaf and the coil springs I was worried about the rear being much higher, now im worried the rear will sag.
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Old Sep 25, 2015 | 09:43 AM
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Have you actually loaded your XJ as planned to see how much the added weigh causes the rear to "sag"? If you do that and confirm your worry about sagging, it would tell me you should have upgraded to a spring with a greater load rate. The Dormans I installed will carry in 400lbs in the rear cargo area without much compression.
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Old Sep 25, 2015 | 09:48 AM
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I loaded up my camping gear, spare tire and some other stuff and the rear end lowered quite a bit, I figured the stock springs would be fine. I did not want HD springs because I did not want it too be too stiff.
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Old Sep 25, 2015 | 09:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Robert_B
The Dormans I installed will carry in 400lbs in the rear cargo area without much compression.
What is the part number of those?
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Old Sep 25, 2015 | 09:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Robert_B
Have you actually loaded your XJ as planned to see how much the added weigh causes the rear to "sag"? If you do that and confirm your worry about sagging, it would tell me you should have upgraded to a spring with a greater load rate. The Dormans I installed will carry in 400lbs in the rear cargo area without much compression.
Leaf springs have actual ratings. 650lb/in, 725lb/in etc. Means it'll take "X" amount of weight to make the leafs drop by an inch, iirc. Going by bottoming out in a ditch going fast is NOT an accurate test since all leaf springs and coil springs will have this issue. Some wont bottom out because of the extra distance between parts. Bet you the leafs still now a little. That's their job. To compress and spring back. An actual test of sag with weight is more important. OP, if you want stiffer leaf springs. Order a set of HD leafs and the set you currently running, use those mains to military wrap around the new HD set. I bet you'll get a stiffer rear end and some lift too. And also yes a quality set of shocks help too, but too firm and a DD feels horrible. My zone nitros were great off road but that nitrogen filled shock made potholes feel crazy. Did make doing 50 around corners swayless easier. Less body roll with em
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Old Sep 25, 2015 | 09:58 AM
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Originally Posted by nicksan
What is the part number of those?
929-301
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