oh god im having an overheating problem, but just if I idle for to long the gauge says its 210 but I think its not accurate. The coolant bubbles out the reservoir, so im going to replace the water pump. Also my fan doesn't kick on so im replacing that. And I need a new head gasket. If I fix all that and still have problems ill prob have a for sale sign on it lol.

 

Wouldnt be a fan. If he is going faster than 30 fans dont do much.

 

Yes, it is. Also, above 35 mph, the fan is doing no good anyway, which is where my problem lies.

Thanks.

EDIT: I see that was answered before. Thanks.

 

The thing is, I've had this problem before like the fan was connected the other way around, with the car not moving, everything was fine. As soon as it started to roll and most above 20km/h the temp raised like hell. After a few minutes of mind boggling I found out that my car's fan isn't connected properly :P
So your fan is working and pulling air inside as it should? :P


Anyways, another one:

You replaced the headgasket, how is compression now, did you check it?

 

The fan is running correctly.

I drove the Penguin about 80 miles today and really scrutinized my driving and what the temp was doing. Here is the scenario:

A/C: On Max the entire time. As much as I wanted to, I never shut it off when the temp got up.

Mixed driving, up hills and down hills, red lights, a half-dozen small cities and towns.

I can idle all day, or stay at a steady RPM, and it will stay at 210, or even a little under.

When I go up inclined, and the AW4 drops out of OD, into 3rd, the RPMs get up to 2700-3000 and the needle will slowly rise. It hasn't gone over the 3/4 mark, but it does get within a needle's width of it. I am going to assume that the 3/4 mark is 235*, and say that it gets up to 230* on long climbs, but on shorter ones and starting off on inclines at red lights, it will rise to about 220-225*. Of course, successive hills will yield it going higher. Within 5 minutes, under no strain, it will go cool from 230*, back down to 210* area.

Is there a cause for this? If I could drive on flat roads only, it would never leave 210*, but I don't have that luxury here. Is the transmission causing this extra heat? I have a new radiator and unless everyone experiences this and just does not talk about it, I assume it is not normal.

I hope this specific item rings a bell with someone.

 

I have never checked the compression, and do not have any idea on how to do that (nor the tools). Of course, I never replaced a head, and other items, prior to this either.

My oil pressure stays at 50 when running at operating temperature, and falls to about 25 when at idle, at operating temp. When I first fire it up, the pressure is at 60 psi.

When I replaced the head, the guy next door helped me set it on and prep the mating surface. He is a mechanic and said that it all looked good to him. He moved them and ran them up and down manually, before we put the head on. He is a young guy, but he rebuilt small engines for years when he was growing up and racing go-carts, he has also rebuilt his and his dad's 7.3L PS, and works on forklifts for a living. He certainly knows more than I, but some of the Jeep "issues" have stumped him. He was surprised when I burped the engine, and I stopped overheating at idle. I guess Fords don't have that particular problem.

 

Hows the condition of your trans fluid and filter?

 

I changed the filter, and the subsequent fluid from the pan, when I changed the head less than 1,000 miles ago. I just checked it and it is still red, with just a shade of darkness in it.

The oil still looks good too, and it was changed with the head also, of course.

Neither fluid smells burnt.

 

I'd say that the experts here should have a look at your compression test results.

 

I am still trying to set up something for a compression test. I will report back when I have the results. The Jeep is still doing well, until it has to down shift, which is a new one. The original problem I was having was fixed with the new radiator.

 

I took the XJ to a mechanic, to have them look it over and try to determine why it is still overheating, and if I did anything wrong. He drove it, with me in it, and went into what he called "lockout," where it downshifted and really ramped up the RPMs. Lockout is a new term to me, so I don't know exactly what it means, or if he BSing. The AC was on Max while we were doing this test run.

Anyway, the temp was at the 3/4 mark when we arrived back at the shop, and he immediately put a temp gun on it. The water outlet (t-stat housing) was 197*, the rear of the engine, where the temp sender is, was at 212*, and the heat valve controller was at 210*.

He said he thought that the temp gauge was bad. Anyone else have this issue before?

I have been running around with the Georgia temp being in the mid 90's today (heat index of 103* in the shade), with the AC on, and it is staying between 210* and 235*, according to the gauge. I bought a heat gun myself so I could check it periodically and here is the results.

Ambient Temp: 95* according to bank
Ambient Temp (gun): 97.5*
Engine Temp (instrument gauge): 235*
Water Outlet Temp (gun): 197*
Rear of block by temp sending unit (gun): 209*
Heater Control Valve (gun): 209*

Thoughts? Did I fix my problem and now the gauge is bad? One thing is that the grounding wire was touching the temp sender, and I moved it off of it a few days ago. Not sure if it would cause problems with it being that way for about 500 miles of use, prior to correction.

 

try your clutch fan i had this problem a few years back it would run fine but sitting still it would overheat i was able to stik my finger in the fan at high idle and the fan would just stop(dont advise doing that tho) but turned out that was the only issue

 

That was done 2 months ago, on page 2 of this thread. Every item in the cooling system has been replaced now, from the head to the radiator, and everything in between.

 

yeah man, i dont think the temp gun is lying.
Looks like your gauge is bad.

 

Can I replace the gauge, or would I have to buy a new cluster?