Yeah I was on rock auto, I think I have all the information I need now guys thanks for all the help.

 

First off aux cooling fan works ..thats good . Next run engine get up tp around 200 degrees shut motor off . With your hand spin the cooling/mechanical fan on passenger side if it spins freely more than 1/2 to 3/4 turn it should be replaced . If you wallets fat go ahead do a new oem degree thermostat,water pump, hoses, new cap and belt for a piece of mind.

 

A standard OEM pump cost around $50 from Napa. In theory the Hesco pump shouldnt be any harder to install then the OEM replacement. The main difference between the two is the impeller design. I did say some people dont like the pump, not most. Like many other topics there is contradicting info about the upgrade. I went with the upgrade because I know there is under designed systems within the XJ so why not upgrade while Im buying the part. If I were you also make sure your coolant level is topped off. If it is low on water it could have the same results.

 

Hoses were replaced radiator was cleaned and cap is new, turns out they put in a 180 t stat after they fixed the gasket, I had a scan gauge hooked up today and only drove it short distances but It never read above 210, having a 180 t stat will still report the same temp to the ecu right? Unfortunately wallet is not fat right now, fan clutch and water pump are what I can afford in the immediate future.

 

Whats the out side temp where your at ?

 

Hey I just figured I would ask the question here. My jeep runs hot and when I turn it off and it is still 210* it vapor locks cylinder 3 and 6 and when I turn it back on (shortly after) it sputters and misses for a bit and check engine comes on. So does anyone think if I put a new thermostat in it might help maybe a 180* or 160* would help?

 

Just bought a Tru-Flow water pump from NAPA for $37.94. Can't beat that! Maybe later when I upgrade my radiator, I'll put the Hesco on, but I need my Jeep back pronto! Also I would highly recommend the Fel-Pro water pump gasket with the built in silicone bead that you can put on dry.

The tstat doesn't report anything, the Temperature sensor does. The 180 just opens sooner. No matter what tstat you have, the sensor should report whatever the coolant temp is.

 

Common problem with the later models. You can search for "injector heat shield" or "cherokee vapor lock" for more info on the TSB and solutions.

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/hea...tor-3-a-98846/

 

I dont mean to hijack someones thread, but I have replaced the stat, waterpump, radiator, and lower hose. It has ran nice and cool since all that was replaced.

Today in line for coffee I see steam and smell coolant. Temp spiking and I notice I am boiling over.

Get back to work, pop hood and notice entire passanger side of of engine compartment drenched. bottle empty and cap on bottle is loose again.

What is going on?

 

Year?

 

Sorry, 87, 6 cyl, mechanical fan works, shroud is good. Going to check electrical fan tomorrow.

 

I figured it was a renix from what you described but wanted to make sure.
Have you replaced the cap on the pressure bottle with a Volvo cap #703-1396? It has a higher pressure release which is needed in the closed loop system you have. It's about $8 at orileys and will likely stop the overheating, I had this same issue for a year before I finally changed the cap. I've had the cap for 4 months now and hold steady at 210* regardless of outside conditions.

 

Well, I will be there tomorrow to get one. I was hoping for an easy fix. Thanks man

 

Hope it is the easy fix for you. Good luck.