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spotting on my driveway

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Old Oct 8, 2008 | 06:46 PM
  #16  
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From: Palestine, TX
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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It's marking it's territory, gotta keep those "pretty boys" away.

(aka the jacked up "show trucks")
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Old Oct 8, 2008 | 07:31 PM
  #17  
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From: pa
Year: 2000
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by CodeXJ
I would never use oil stop leak in my engine, I'd be worried it might plug up one of the many small oil passages in the engine.

Check the valve cover bolt at the back drivers-side of the cover. It's next to impossible to see, but this is where mine was leaking. All my valve cover bolts were basically finger tight, I've got them torqued to 15ft/lbs with the new gasket. Probably a little tight, but it's not leaking.
the products they make to stop oil leaks are not thick and gooey they are very thin and lightweight more so than the oil,they're made to swell the gaskets....just like the brake fluid trick
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Old Oct 9, 2008 | 08:51 AM
  #18  
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From: pa
Year: 2000
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well i did try the sta-bil brand oil leak/rear main conditioner to no avail yet,but i haven't driven the 200 miles they say to...looks like i'll probably be tearing into it..maybe i'm oversimplifying but it's pretty much just droppin the pan and poppin out the seal and putting back together...right?
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Old Oct 9, 2008 | 08:58 AM
  #19  
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Year: 2000
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actually i just talked to the dealer they said $300 if it's two piece seal 600 if it's one piece cause they have to drop the trans how can i tell which one it is cause i don't want to drop the trans

Last edited by seed; Oct 9, 2008 at 09:18 AM.
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Old Oct 9, 2008 | 09:08 AM
  #20  
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From: Okc area
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
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Basicaly yes that's what it entails..You will want a wooden dowel or a sturdy plastic tube to push the top seal out. Do not use metal as it could scar the surface..Also make sure you find out the exact torque specs for that rear bearing cap.. Also document where the oil pan bolts go. One more thing if it was me I would pull the oil pickup tube and clean it very very well..Actually I'd just buy a new pickup tube..then clean any goop and grime off the bearings and oil pan..Also get the good one piece oil pan gasket..You will also want a little dab of RTV on the rear bearing cap to help seal the 2 pieces together.. Other then that it's pretty easy just time consumer and messy..make sure you have a n oil pan and a piece of cardboard or a towl to catch the drops of oil so it doesn't get all over your driveway.
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Old Oct 9, 2008 | 09:52 AM
  #21  
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From: Okc area
Year: 1991
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Here's a nice writeup..
http://jeepin.com/features/rearmain/
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Old Oct 9, 2008 | 10:00 AM
  #22  
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good lookin out okc....but can i found if it's one or two piece before i start? maybe the dealer could tell me?
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Old Oct 9, 2008 | 10:11 AM
  #23  
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From: Okc area
Year: 1991
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Engine: 4.0 I6
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Oh yours is 2 pieces..when I say newer I mean newer and that doesn't include the XJ's..XJ's are all 2 pieces..Your parts shop should be able to get ya a good one..They run around $15 for a good felpro seal.. Feel lucky the 1 piece ones you have to remove the trany..
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Old Oct 17, 2008 | 07:53 AM
  #24  
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From: shebly twp mich
Year: 1992
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Engine: 4.0
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how long are the oil seals good for just bought a 92 and the seal was bad changed it and 2 weeks later it is leaking again is this typical? I used the write up from jeepin.com and was done in about 3 hours
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Old Oct 17, 2008 | 07:56 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by rlevs
how long are the oil seals good for just bought a 92 and the seal was bad changed it and 2 weeks later it is leaking again is this typical? I used the write up from jeepin.com and was done in about 3 hours
it should def last longer than two weeks..are you sure it's the rear main leaking?
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Old Oct 17, 2008 | 08:49 AM
  #26  
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From: Okc area
Year: 1991
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Yeah should last longer then 2 weeks but the 2 piece design is flawed on so many ways..My question is did you use some RTV on the bearing cap to help seal the 2 seal ends as well as the cap itself? Also did you let everything set before poring the oil in?
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Old Oct 17, 2008 | 09:10 AM
  #27  
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From: Port Orange, FL
Year: 1993, 1994
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Originally Posted by rlevs
how long are the oil seals good for just bought a 92 and the seal was bad changed it and 2 weeks later it is leaking again is this typical? I used the write up from jeepin.com and was done in about 3 hours
Are you sure it's leaking from the seal, or is it leaking from the back of the valve cover and leaking down?
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Old Oct 17, 2008 | 09:49 AM
  #28  
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Year: 1990XJ/1989MJ
Model: Comanche
Engine: 4.0L Renix
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My new seal is going on 4 years since the install and no drips yet (knock on wood)
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Old Oct 17, 2008 | 02:12 PM
  #29  
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From: North Haven CT
Year: 1993
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: V8
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Originally Posted by rlevs
how long are the oil seals good for just bought a 92 and the seal was bad changed it and 2 weeks later it is leaking again is this typical? I used the write up from jeepin.com and was done in about 3 hours
You might find a cheap leak detector with the tracer dye will help find all leaks. It's a pain trying to find oils on black parts.
http://www.autobarn.net/uvledeackitb.html
http://www.autobarn.net/fluorleakdet1.html
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Old Oct 17, 2008 | 02:17 PM
  #30  
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From: In yourz postez fissin jurr spelinzs
Year: 1990XJ/1989MJ
Model: Comanche
Engine: 4.0L Renix
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If a leak detector is out of your budget then some gunk and a car wash prolly are not. A clean engine is much easier to work on and the source will be much easier to find.
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