Thanks but no thanks. They wont put out anywhere near what the L7 can.

 

Sheepdog,

That was very helpful thanks!

Looks like Bazooka and Sound Ordnance are the only two option out of that list though. They are the only ones that put out enough watts.

 

i would get the sound ordinance of those two, they have awesome reviews and great pricing, and they are well made too. i dont know about bazooka....never had good experience from them personally, but hey thats just me, i know there have been people that have liked them

 

My name is Jon too!!
Alright on to the answer...
I work for a car audio/electronics shop so I'd love to give you some advice.

Everything WILL work together no matter what the brands are. In the end, all speakers have the same connections. Speakers either have a positive and negitive terminal setup (composite) or they will connect to the head unit via RCA cables (red and white plugs like what an xbox uses).

The most common connection is composite so make sure you go with that to avoid any compatibility issues with your amp and/or head unit.

As for the sub and the monoblock, they will work together flawlessly.

You really need to look out for two things here... Those two things are, A: How many watts RMS will my speakers/sub handle? (RMS = constant power handling) and B: Will the amp's RMS match that of the speakers or sub?

Make sure you buy the right size everything.
You can however buy amps a little larger that will hit the peak power handling of your sub or speakers. Just make sure you have the gain on the amp turned down to about 3/4s power to avoid any issues.

Since you're installing all of the system, you will need hardware such as a dash installation kit (plug that splices into head unit's wiring harness and then attaches to the stock radio plug). Make sure you get that because cutting the original wires of the Jeep would suck.

Good luck with the installation and I hope it sounds good!!

BTW here's my setup if you want some ideas

Alpine IDA-X305S Head Unit
Kenwood 1 way 5.25 speakers @ 175 watts PEAK (2 in the front doors, 2 in the speaker bar)
Dual blue led Illuminating tweeters (2 of them in the front doors where the power locks should be)
Rockford Fosgate P1412s (2 of them currently in a sealed enclosure and bridged at 4 ohms)
MTX Thunder 282 2 channel Amp (small amp i'm using temporairly, gets the job done)
Scosche Dash Installation kit
Scosche Amp Wiring Kit

In the very near future I'm getting an 800 watt amp from a friend who no longer uses it, I'm building a new ported enclosure for my 12s, and I'm getting both the Alpine bluetooth connectivity add-on, and the IMPRINT active equalizer.

 

icon legend and sony

 

XJSport thank you very much. That was incredibly helpful!

 

Not a problem! I love passing the knowledge on to other people! If you have any other questions, don't hesitate to ask me.

 

Everything will work together as long as the amps dont overdrive the components.

 

I have a couple of questions actually.

Do I need to replace my stock wiring or can I still use it? If I do have to replace it what gauge would be best?(I've read about the gauge a little bit but still don't know a whole lot about it)

And how did you mount tweeters into the power door locks? That sounds really cool.

Thanks
Jon

 

You can run the stock wiring for the speakers without a problem. I never replaced my speaker wiring and it works just fine. As for the tweeter mounting, basically you have to remove the decorative trim around the lock and where the power lock switches are. Then you take a 1 inch hole saw and saw a hole through it, after that's done you take the tweeter and insert it through the hole. I used a small bead of hot glue around the base of the tweeter on the inside of the trim piece just to make sure it stays in place. After that's all done, reattach the trim and wire the tweeters to the same wires your door speakers are running to. then you're done!