Went to replace my shocks, PO had replaced them by drilling bolts into the floors and one of them they left stock. Stock one busted out in in the uniframe. I got one of the aftermarket bolts out but the other one is stuck on the nut and spits with it, and the last one the nut is rounded but slightly backed off, same side that has the broken stock bolt, so that side currently doesn't have a shock in it. I don't have a compressor or air hammer so I've been using a punch and hammer to get that one out but it doesn't work

I took it up to a local shop but they won't work on it cause I guess the return fuel line is busted so they won't work on it cause they say they need to heat it up the broken bolt to get it out (I call bs) before they hit it with an air hammer and that they could cut the nuts off the bolts to pull the bolts out thru the top but the sparks risk igniting the fuel.

I get that it's a shop and a liability issue, but I feel like it can be done. I never even smelled fuel until they had it up on the lift and I was under there. I've been under that jeep for the past 3 days and didn't smell anything so it can't be that bad a fuel leak... I can buy a grinder and cut the bolts and find a friend with a compressor and buy a cheap air hammer from harbor freight, but is there anyway to minimize the risk of lighting the fuel? Or is the shop over exaggerating the issue? Jeep is my daily and I don't have to money to pay a shop to replace my fuel lines

 

Hit the weld nuts harder and they will come out. They are literally tacked in place in 2 small spots. This doesnt necesarilly require heat.

you absolutely have the right idea on removing them just gotta get after it.

if your worried about sparks then spray everything down with water and be strategic about where the cutoff wheel is kicking the sparks. Obviously space can be congested but do the best you can and get it done

 

See that's what I was thinking. I know those nuts are just tacked a couple times and they just need enough force

As for the other ones, you think I could just bring out like a water bottle and spray it every few seconds in between hitting it with the grinder? That's what I was originally gonna do but didn't know if that'd be any help.

 

I stuff insulation around the area of the tank. Cardboard can be made to fit in many spots. Minimize the risk & keep rollin

 

The shop could do it in 30 seconds but would charge you for half hr and you would say “I ai t paying your $50 to remove a bolt”.

just bring a fire extinguisher with you if you are worries.

 

Yes

don't have a full fuel tank, have a fire extinguisher handy, if not a bucket of water and hose is better than nothing (it is!)

I use a butane torch, heat & cool repeatedly, cycling, work fastener back & forth, add lubricant.

another way, place electrode tip of arc welder rod onto fastener, low setting, battery disconnected, switch on for a few secs, induction heating! (no flame, works perfectly)

otherwise, like previous peeps, drill, grind, punch out rusted old stuff if it's no good, replace using tips from archives. Common problem. Use anti-seize!