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Old Sep 14, 2015, 04:52 PM
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Serpentine belt keeps slipping off

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Old Mar 19, 2017 | 01:03 PM
  #31  
XJRed96's Avatar
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0L
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The Thermostat housing is a general weak point on these 4.0s they corrode and pit and cause all sorts of problems when it comes time to reseal them. A thin coat of RTV sealant on both the housing and block after cleaning them up as well as you can, with a new gasket is usually enough to help it seal up. I use the Elrig Orange Dirko product which is OES for most audis/vws/bmw and has some serious sealing power at all temps.

I've never applied any sealant to the water pump. the paper gasket has always been substantial. If it's truly leaking and not just leaking down from the thermo housing then I hate to say it but you fudged something up. You should verify the housing is properly sealed before continuing diagnosis on the Pump leak. also the stat should go in first then the gasket then the housing bleeder valve facing up if so equipped.
If the pitting is bad on the housing just get a new one. they only run about $15.

Other tip is until you can verify the system is fully sealed maybe just use straight water until it's confirmed. flush it out when you are done.
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Old Sep 16, 2017 | 10:45 PM
  #32  
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Default 1996 grand cherokee

Originally Posted by CommanderXJ
A few days ago, my jeep started making a noise that sounded like plastic cups being tossed around. I pinpointed this noise to the engine bay and found my serpentine belt was way off track by power steering pump. So to fix this, I went ahead and loosened the belt tension adjusting bolt by the power steering pump bracket and the idler pulley and realigned the belt once more and tightened her up again.

Within seconds of starting the vehicle up again, it slipped off track again and I decided to take a dance with my luck and had tried to drive it back to my house which was a mere 7 miles away. Unfortunately, it did not make it. Part way through the trip, the serpentine belt came completely off and I lost power steering and the temperature started to rise. I was forced to pull it over to a gas station to let it rest for about 15-20 min before I trudged it along to a nearby friend's house where it currently sits.

My question is....what the hell is wrong with it? The belt was on there pretty good and is (was) in good condition before, so I am not sure how it all of the sudden started to become loose and slip off track.

Any input is greatly appreciated, the car is my only set of wheels now so the sooner I get this thing back on the road, the better.

It's a 96' cherokee with a 4.0 for those wondering.

EDIT: Oh, and my coolant spewed everywhere too causing the car to overheat.
My idle pulley bent upwards
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Old Mar 3, 2025 | 08:00 PM
  #33  
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Default Wow,sounds familiar.

Originally Posted by Modrod
If you have Advance Auto Parts get their water pump. I tried the Autozone and O'Reilly (new and rebuilt from O'Reilly) ones and they both squealed. Took me 4 tries to get one that didn't sound like it was falling apart. The Advance Auto one is a GMB pump, the Azone and O'Reilly ones were A-Cardone pumps. That has been my experience anyway.
Glad you got it figured out.
So i have a 1997 Jeep grand Cherokee. I just replaced the Coolant/water pump. After some trial and error, having to take everything apart 3 different times to re install the belt. Finally i got it right. But she squeals! After taking some tension off of it ( figured I had it too tight.) It still squeals.
I took it by my local aotozone and the guy there said the sound seemed to be coming from the center. Which more or less I agree to that. The temp maintains and doesn't overheat. After driving out to town and back( 10- miles round-trip) I pulled up into my driveway and felt the center of all the pulleys I could touch. None were hot or even warm. So it was not a bad pulley making the noise.
. My main question and concern is that since i got a squealer for a coolant pump,does this mean it will wear out faster and potentially be a catastrophic failure??
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Old Mar 3, 2025 | 10:46 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by cpnwrench


99.9% of the time you hear that noise like the plastic cups on the floor thingsy thing.

its the idler pulley/tensioner. (the cheapo bearing in it has worn and gone.)

check all pulleys by hand....no belt on..spin them with your hand.

like the other guys said if any one of them grind, or are sloppy, or seem like not spinning right.. thats the problem.

anyway, good luck!

cpnwrench

If it has never been replaced the stock idler pully runs a pretty decent NSK 6203-2RS bearing
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Old Mar 4, 2025 | 11:09 PM
  #35  
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More often than not, people undertighten the belt. Get a Krikket-II guage and set the tension properly instead of guessing. Inspect the harmonic balancer, aka the big pulley on the crank. The outside portion should be even with the inside portion. What happens is the rubber separator between the two dry rots and the outer ring can slip forward or backward causes the belt to be noisy. It can also slip rotationally under load causing noise. Some cheap belts seem to be noisy too.

Grab a piece of hose and use that as a stethoscope.

Last edited by lawsoncl; Mar 6, 2025 at 10:40 PM.
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Old Mar 4, 2025 | 11:14 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by lawsoncl
More often than not, people undertighten the belt. Get a Krikket-II guage and set the tension properly instead of guessing. Inspect the harmonic balancer, aka the big pulley on the crank. The outside portion should be even with the inside portion. What happens is the rubber separator between the two dry rots and the outer ring can slip forward or backward causes the belt the be noisy. It can also slip rotationally under load causing noise. Some cheap belts seem to be noisy too.

Grab a piece of hose and use that as a stethoscope.
Love my klickket, great ultra simple tool
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