I was watching the show Gearz on the Speed Channel last week, when Stacy David had a quick blurb about a product I'd never heard of.

It's made by FuelSmart. I've seen a lot of snake oil BS products that claim to increase mileage with air "vortexes" or putting magnets on your fuel lines to 'align the mo;molecules of your gas". Also, there are some real things you can do (as others have suggested) but they often revolve around doing without something or some other compromise, and even combining several of them might get you 10% savings.

This thing is the first product that I think might actually work! It functions in much the same way as cylinder deactivation on newer trucks. It wires up between your stock computer and your fuel injectors, and cuts off the signal to certain injectors when you are below a certain load on the motor. Obviously, this would work better if we could also do something with the injectors on the cylinders to relive compressive pressure, but I would have to think there may be some benefit to this. They claim an expected 15%-20% fuel savings, which on my rig would be another 4 MPG on the highway, getting me up near 24.

They offer a 30 day, no questions asked, money back guarantee, which is more than I can say for nearly any other product I've seen.

Again, I just saw this last week, so I haven't tried it myself, but if it does give you another 4 MPG, it would pay for itself (in my case) in about 6 months, after which it's just pure savings.

http://www.fuelsmart.info/

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=r0IUx6fDj_s

 

I wonder if we could talk the manufacturer into donating a unit to a forum member for testing purposes. If it works, I'd wager they could sell a lot of them here!

 

Aargh.
What do they plan on doing about the o2 sensor and PCM? It will sense the lean condition and crank the remaining injectors up to try to fix the mixture. Nothing is telling the PCM you did this on purpose.

That is if you don't burn a valve on the "deactivated" cylinders....they are still firing only really, really lean and with little fuel across them for cooling. I hope they at least rotate the deactivation.

I think this sort of idea can work, but it has to be integrated properly. Now if only I can stop the cadillac 8-6-4 flashbacks, lol.


eta: I found the site and read the installation instructions. They are cycling the injectors off for a short time period, then turning them all on, then repeating the cycle. That should avoid valve problems and setting a CEL, but doesn't address the O2 sensor/PCM mixture correction.

 

[QUOTE="Atmos"]
but you need to regear or run a stock tire to have any sort of chance at getting stock gas mileage
so you're wasting your time. the best upgrade you can do for your jeep is buy 2nd car that's good on gas and DD it
[QUOTE="Atmos"]

My gearing is good for the highway city and off road. I will be switching to 4.10's down the road (i have the front ring pinion and carrier) Gearing makes a huge difference in everything performance, towing, off road, gas mileage.

For a second car I don't see the point. You'll have to pay for insurance (possible gas money) the car (500-2500 of your possible gas fund) and then gas for that. Then you have to be responsible for fixing the jeep or the car when it breaks so when your car needs a new part there's more possible gas money, Registration too and an inspection, then maintenance. With all that are you really saving anything? You might in 10 years start saving but you won't be able to drive your jeep and if you had a choice between the two you'd hopefully pick the jeep.

Here are my plans:
- really really low profile roof rack with wind deflector and a spoiler type thing to help with the bad air flow (10-15$) (estimated 1-2mpg highway gain)
- custom cool air intake (40-50$) (1mpg & slight power gain)
- dual electric fan (.5mpg & slight performance) (25$)
- bored throttle body 60mm (.2mpg) (free!)
- small front skid plate with a flip down skid/air redirector (1mpg) (20$)
- removed window wipers (.1mpg) (free!)
- removable push bar plate held on with wing nuts for quick removal ( and I may make headlight cover things with plexiglass) (5-10$) (.1mpg)
Any more suggestions? Would you think a 99+ intake manifold would do anything? Maybe injectors? I can't remember does any one know about the ac vs windows open? They did this test on myth busters if ac is more efficient maybe I'll get some freeze 12 for it.

 

I really screwed that post up somehow haha

 

I was kidding. buying another car is obviously not feasible unless your rig is a trailer queen
4.10's are really a waste of time I hate to say. you could've pulled a D30 from a 4 banger with 4.10 gears
and an 8.8 swap with stock 4.10 gears and a limited slip for less than the cost of a regear

then regear those axles to a useful ratio, like 4.56 or 4.88

4 hole fuel injectors would be cool. proven better atomization of fuel. better throttle response better use of fuel
cold air intake is a waste of time unless it's through the cowl. this website is worth a read for some upgrade ideas
http://jeep4.0performance.4mg.com/

 

don't forget to tinker with your exhaust and do some research on that as well

 

buy a smart car and keep the jeep for a trail rig my brother has a honda and it gets 35 city haha jeeps suck on gas no way around it most probly will get is like 17 all stock a good way is to change the gears out i have 456 gears and it helps just not over 55 cuz goes over 2200 rpm

 

I like the idea of the rear axle swap to get 4.10's and I know 4.10's arent much but hey they're here I got the front ones. And the cold air intake would use a rocket max flow style filter and I would use exhaust pipe to make a system like the spectre kit just for a lot cheaper since I can weld it up my self so it does go threw the cowl.

After watching some aerodynamic wind tunnel video things this is what I came up with



I noticed on suv,s air flow on the back isn't very good and it was fixed by a flat style spoiler, the front had wind catching the front axle and suspension parts by doing a skid plate it pushes it out of the front suspension, the front is easy no more brick flow! And then the air deflector rack would decrease drag on the cross bars.

 

I don't care for driving cars... I love my jeep I don't want to have to trailer it cause... Well what am I gonna tow it with? Not the Honda so now I have a Car, truck, and a jeep? Oh and the trailer that's a terrible solution to save money. I don't care about the gas usage and the environment to the point where I want to use less gas. There's enough people driving efficient cars to make up for my environmental carelessness.

 

no. a trailer queen is a rig that cannot legally or safely drive on the road. so it has to be towed to the trail

wow dude you're way over thinking this. you're going to make yourself sick worrying about your health
it's a brick on wheels

 

It's not worrying as much as it is convenience im pretty sure theres a lot of people who would love to be able to be in the 20's zone. Oh and thanks for worrying about me haha im in Perfect health... well good enough.

 

I guess in a way it's a brick with possibilities that are screaming to be let out that's why people modify their vehicles

 

So you like the jeep, not a car for DD,why not get yourself a deisel jeep,l just averaged 32.7mpg and still got wipers if it rains.

 

My recommendation is drive 55mph or slower when safely possible. I get insane gas mileage by keeping my foot out of it.