probably for a few seconds but it went back to "normal" after a bit.
i know it is not super rough but it is still aggravating and I'd like to figure out what is going on

OK, here is something else that I noticed.. today while I was torquing my suspension bolts, I could hear fuel trickling into the fuel tank, does this mean I have an evap problem?

Threw a code

Got a CEL tonight and i went to Autozone for a free scan,

According to the scan tool I get a CEL for Cylinder 1 misfire

I have spark to cylinder 1, and if I pull the wire it runs even worse so I know it is sparking.

I also have a noise that I can only describe as sounding like an exhaust leak, from inside the cabin, it just sounds like an "airy" sound in relation to the rpm's. I thought that I had a cracked header or bad gasket but the noise is still the same after I put on a new header and gasket. i don't know if this is related, but all of these pieces must add up to something.

THis is really frustrating, but I think I am at least narrowing it down.

Any ideas? How can I ave a cyl 1 misfire on a dizzy engine?

I hope someone is reading this and can help me out..

I just finished wasting an hour of time and $80 on a CPS..
Haynes manual says to measure resistance between terminals B and C, well I don't have B and C, just 1, 2, 3.. so I measured between 2 and 3 and it was not 0 like the manual says it should be..

I replaced it and made no difference at all.. I am going to take it back and get my money back.

So.. CEL indicating cylinder 1 misfire.. rough idle but not too bad, but def not smooth, tried new CPS, no change, plugs, wires, cap rotor have all been done withibn the past 2 weeks... what now?

Oh yeah, and now I am done with it for the night, time to watch a movie and drink a few beers and try not to think about it.

I would swap those first 2 injector wires, see what happens then try other ones that are bunched together.

Even though I highly doubt any of them are plugged in wrong, I did do this in the parking lot and it made no difference.

I also pulled the spark plug and it looks almost too clean, but t=I did just do plugs about a week ago. The number 2 plug looked the same.

Since I have a bad fuel check valve, could this problem be contributed to a low fuel pressure problem? I am going to look into seeing how I check the fuel pressure.

I wish some of you 4.0 tech heads lived closer to me, I would gladly supply beer, pizza, and $100 cash to anyone that solves this problem

What kind of spark plugs did you use, did you gap them all right. Or maybe you got some crud on that first injector when you reinstalled them.

champion plugs gapped to .035

I am going to look into an IAT.. I think that is Intake Air Temp?
And get a fuel pressure gauge, and do a compression test too.

I also have a loss of power under slight throttle, and other threads say an IAT sensor fixed that issue..

It could be a fuel pump too because I do get fuel leak back after I shut it off, which is why I am going to check the fuel pressure.

ugh..

Read out your number one spark plug wire with a meter. I've heard about 30% of the time when you buy plug wires brand new one or more are bad. Also check out the number one spark plug like Bobby said. Even if gapped correctly in your hand it is easy to bump that plug on the head when installing and you could have accidently smacked the the electrodes together thus shorting that plug out. Also sense you had all of the injectors out, check that the number one injector "O" ring is there and in good shape (not ripped, gouged or flat spotted). Also re-torque your intake manifold again. Even though you torqued it 3 times on installation. After you run it and it cools metal expands and contracts and loosens things up. Re-torque it again. It could very well have a minor vacuum leak at the manifold that a re-torque will fix.

Is it just me? but did anyone see the #1 and #2 injector wires in the video...looks like they are backwards.....sounds like a dead miss in the tailpipe video, check compession on #1 cyl.....
Good luck

I went outside just now and did a compression check.. 150 across the board..


I did notice a bit of carbon chunks on the plugs, probably because i seafoamed it last week. But I wiped the carbon off the plugs, there really wasnt much, and it still ran the same. it;s not TOO bad but it is a bit aggravating and I'd like to figure it out.

I have replaced the IAC and CPS and no change.

OK, i know thatsomeone mentioned it earlier and I think perhaps I have an exhaust leak.. I seafomed it tonight again and def have a leak at the donut, not sure if I have a leak from the mani anywhere but I will check that later in the week..

I tested the fuel pressure and it was reading 145 with the key turned, so I guess the fuel pressure is OK

Now, if I had a little leak in the exhaust mani, would this really cause a misfire? Remember, it runs just fine on the road, it is only the idle and the off-idle that gives me a problem.. I think I am getting closer by process of elimination.. fuel pressure seems OK, new IAC, new CPS... no change whatsoever.. I am going to retorque the manifold bolts and hope that does it. But not tonight, I have spent way too much time troubleshooting this and I am taking a break. But if anyone has any ideas please reply.

you know what, I just remembered, I ran Seafoam through the tank twice since I had it.. the first time was 1/2 can , the second was a full can..

Now, follow me, I wonder if that injector is clogged! When I went to check the fuel pressure yesterday, there was a whole bunch of thick yellow fluid that came out of the fuel rail as soon as I cracked the bleeder on the valve, this was happening as I was trying to attach the gauge.. I just wonder if the seafoam in the tank freed up some gunk and made it's way up to the fuel rail and clogged the injector?

I am sitting at work right now but now I can't wait to get off and pull that injector and inspect it!

If that does fix it come back on and let us know, to many people take free advice and run. Good luck with the injectors