Running Hot with AC On
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 72
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From: Queen Creek, AZ
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Runs about 212-215 with AC on for about 20 minutes...then creeps up to around 218-220 and settles in there. Still need to get it to a shop tomorow.
Seasoned Member
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 491
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From: Powhatan, VA
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
Honestly, I think your truck is fine. I'd blame it on the ambient temps. Those are some pretty extreme conditions. When the A/C compressor kicks on it puts more drag on the engine. This will cause the engine to work harder producing more heat. That combined with the extreme temperatures cause the engine to run hotter than you're used to. You probably didn't have this problem where you used to live because the coolant system could compensate for the added drag of the A/C since the outside air temps were not nearly as high. As far as your A/C not blowing as cold the hight outside air temps are probably to blame as well. The A/C uses outside air. The cooling coil can only remove so much heat from that air. Lets say that the A/C system can put out air that is 40 deg. F. cooler than the entering air. So if your entering air is 90 deg. your discharge air would be 50. If the entering air is 112 deg. then it's only going to discharge 72 deg. air. I work in commercial HVAC. I see this all the time in buildings when ppl complain about the ac not being as cold.
Last edited by stryker1228; Jun 29, 2011 at 09:23 PM.
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 8,172
Likes: 17
From: The Republic of TEXAS
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO
I'd suspect your aftermarket electric fan set-up. Installed a new OE style rad this past Monday. 45 minute test drive, 106F ambient, a/c roarin', coolant temp peaked at 208F on ScanGauge (stock cooling fans with new fan clutch). We run a 180F t-stat year round. I've said more than once though.....the XJ rad couldn't be more dinky at 11" tall. It handles temp fairly decent 8-10 months of the year. LOL
Last edited by djb383; Jun 29, 2011 at 09:34 PM.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 72
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From: Queen Creek, AZ
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Well, it does better without the thermostat. I can scoot around town with the AC on and run engine temps just under 220. I can live with that. Especially with ambient temps pushing 117. However, I still think I have an issue with the AC compressor. It has started making a terrible noise when it engages. Also, I suspect my catalytic converter may be done (based on several holes I've located in it). I'm gonna take it to a shop to see if they can check the back pressure and take a look at the AC compressor. I've got a couple bucks to spend on it and engine temp is critical for the 01s. Knock on wood...I don't have a cracked head now and don't want to tear anything up by overheating. As for the cat...I wanted to put on a new exhaust anyway, so this might be a good chance to get the wife on board.
Hold your horses..heh
I am having the same problem like you with AC on. My temps are hotter than yours during idle with AC on and it keeps creeping until it is 240 to 250 until I get moving. If I turn the AC off then no problems... temps are 210 to 220 in bumper to bumper traffic.
I have noticed after testing the AC condenser it soars to nearly 200F. The temperature only reflected the harsh working condition to remove the AZ heat. If you are running triple fan with 3 core radiator and your temps are 220F ...lets trade jeeps pls? I plan to install all metal 2 core radiator in the next few days and maybe install the triple fan like yours. Our problem is that we need more airflow during AC operations in the AZ heat with the AC off the condenser cools off considerable where it is no longer throwing heat into the radiator. We are talking 100F differences of heat while the AC is on.
If you want to check out my post somewhere on here I describe it in details.
Electric fans work better when there is no airflow. Your post proves to me I need to upgrade my fans to electric because I do a lot of bumper to bumper and idling. Bumper to bumper traffic, my mechanical fan can't move the air needed while the AC is on.
I am having the same problem like you with AC on. My temps are hotter than yours during idle with AC on and it keeps creeping until it is 240 to 250 until I get moving. If I turn the AC off then no problems... temps are 210 to 220 in bumper to bumper traffic.
I have noticed after testing the AC condenser it soars to nearly 200F. The temperature only reflected the harsh working condition to remove the AZ heat. If you are running triple fan with 3 core radiator and your temps are 220F ...lets trade jeeps pls? I plan to install all metal 2 core radiator in the next few days and maybe install the triple fan like yours. Our problem is that we need more airflow during AC operations in the AZ heat with the AC off the condenser cools off considerable where it is no longer throwing heat into the radiator. We are talking 100F differences of heat while the AC is on.
If you want to check out my post somewhere on here I describe it in details.
Electric fans work better when there is no airflow. Your post proves to me I need to upgrade my fans to electric because I do a lot of bumper to bumper and idling. Bumper to bumper traffic, my mechanical fan can't move the air needed while the AC is on.
Last edited by CherokeeInAZ; Aug 11, 2011 at 03:59 PM.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 72
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From: Queen Creek, AZ
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
CherokeeInAZ...You've done a lot more testing than I have. I have replaced all the same components and still am not happy with my temps and AC performance. I would hold off on the triple electric fans if I were you...I was helping a buddy replace his radiator on his XJ last night and did a side by side comparison of airflow. He has the stock e-fan and the upgraded HD fan clutch. My test was the extremely scientific hand over engine flow test...so these results may not be 100% accurate. What I found was my triple electric set up made good air flow at a constant rate. It was comparable to his air flow at idle. However, as he increased rpm, his airflow became significantly greater than mine. I'm going to go back to my stock mech-fan (which was new) and do some temp comparisons. I'll report back when I am finished.
Also, could the condensor just be so clogged up that it is holding heat...I know you cleaned and repaired fins...but how effective is that? Would a new condensor improve temps with AC on?
Also, could the condensor just be so clogged up that it is holding heat...I know you cleaned and repaired fins...but how effective is that? Would a new condensor improve temps with AC on?
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 2,867
Likes: 16
From: Fauquier County, Virginia
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I-6 4.0 HO
You could always try the higher flowing water pump.. I think the company is called FlowKooler or something of that nature. Make sure the e-fans are cutting on... Now, here's the kicker... does your extreme three fan setup have shrouds?
Is your Ac blowing cold between 30 to 40F out of central vent? If it is blowing cold means your AC is working right. I know it sounds simple but it is true since I work on AC on autos.
The AC condenser is doing what it is supposed to do via heat exchange.
If outside temps are 110F you can expect the condenser temps to be little over 110F. Once you turn the AC on it starts to remove the heat from the interior and pushes the unwanted heat to the condenser. The condenser can reach over 200F...it is doing the job it is designed to do. If you think the condenser is restricting airflow then take a small pick (carefully) fix the fins and remove rocks/bugs. It is like this...if you have a heat gun on an object it is going to add to the heat of the object until you either have more airflow or liquid flow to overcome the additional heat on the object.
Our jeep radiators are too small in my opinion. If you notice the other jeeps in cooler climates most of them don't have these heating problems until something fails on the cooling system.
If you have a infrared heat gun test the pavement depending on the temps that day it is anywhere from 120F to 150F. If you are sitting in bumper to bumper traffic or parked idling....that is so much more heat to remove and that is why I suspect I do not overheat during trails because the dirt doesn't hold onto the heat.
Basically more airflow, bigger radiator, more cooling capacity is needed for our problems.
The AC condenser is doing what it is supposed to do via heat exchange.
If outside temps are 110F you can expect the condenser temps to be little over 110F. Once you turn the AC on it starts to remove the heat from the interior and pushes the unwanted heat to the condenser. The condenser can reach over 200F...it is doing the job it is designed to do. If you think the condenser is restricting airflow then take a small pick (carefully) fix the fins and remove rocks/bugs. It is like this...if you have a heat gun on an object it is going to add to the heat of the object until you either have more airflow or liquid flow to overcome the additional heat on the object.
Our jeep radiators are too small in my opinion. If you notice the other jeeps in cooler climates most of them don't have these heating problems until something fails on the cooling system.
If you have a infrared heat gun test the pavement depending on the temps that day it is anywhere from 120F to 150F. If you are sitting in bumper to bumper traffic or parked idling....that is so much more heat to remove and that is why I suspect I do not overheat during trails because the dirt doesn't hold onto the heat.
Basically more airflow, bigger radiator, more cooling capacity is needed for our problems.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 72
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From: Queen Creek, AZ
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
CherokeeInAZ...that makes sense. I think my elec fan set up is not up to the task...I may also try a high flow water pump after I go back to the stock fan set up.
My AC takes several minutes to get "cold". I haven't tested the air temp but I suspect it is no where near 30-40. I have to find a local shop (I just moved here) that can do a AC system check. I need to get this fixed so I can move on with my life.
My AC takes several minutes to get "cold". I haven't tested the air temp but I suspect it is no where near 30-40. I have to find a local shop (I just moved here) that can do a AC system check. I need to get this fixed so I can move on with my life.
I installed a cheap radiator from autozone called the spectra premium $109.00. It is a single core row but they actually changed the radiator from what we know as 2 core row and 3 core row. The spectra has a single core row but it is wide...I mean wide like between a 2 core and 3 core radiator passage. My heating problems on my jeep are fixed with AC running. I am going to do a final test today around 2pm as the temps get over 104F for a torture test on hot pavement.
I was going to buy the all metal 3 core but someone suggested I try that spectra premium first.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...266534_0_13752
Comes with lifetime warranty.
I was going to buy the all metal 3 core but someone suggested I try that spectra premium first.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...266534_0_13752
Comes with lifetime warranty.
Last edited by CherokeeInAZ; Aug 13, 2011 at 01:31 PM.
CF Veteran


Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 1,456
Likes: 74
From: North Riding of Yorkshire, UK
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Is your Ac blowing cold between 30 to 40F out of central vent? If it is blowing cold means your AC is working right. I know it sounds simple but it is true since I work on AC on autos.
The AC condenser is doing what it is supposed to do via heat exchange.
If outside temps are 110F you can expect the condenser temps to be little over 110F. Once you turn the AC on it starts to remove the heat from the interior and pushes the unwanted heat to the condenser. The condenser can reach over 200F...it is doing the job it is designed to do. If you think the condenser is restricting airflow then take a small pick (carefully) fix the fins and remove rocks/bugs. It is like this...if you have a heat gun on an object it is going to add to the heat of the object until you either have more airflow or liquid flow to overcome the additional heat on the object.
Our jeep radiators are too small in my opinion. If you notice the other jeeps in cooler climates most of them don't have these heating problems until something fails on the cooling system.
If you have a infrared heat gun test the pavement depending on the temps that day it is anywhere from 120F to 150F. If you are sitting in bumper to bumper traffic or parked idling....that is so much more heat to remove and that is why I suspect I do not overheat during trails because the dirt doesn't hold onto the heat.
Basically more airflow, bigger radiator, more cooling capacity is needed for our problems.
The AC condenser is doing what it is supposed to do via heat exchange.
If outside temps are 110F you can expect the condenser temps to be little over 110F. Once you turn the AC on it starts to remove the heat from the interior and pushes the unwanted heat to the condenser. The condenser can reach over 200F...it is doing the job it is designed to do. If you think the condenser is restricting airflow then take a small pick (carefully) fix the fins and remove rocks/bugs. It is like this...if you have a heat gun on an object it is going to add to the heat of the object until you either have more airflow or liquid flow to overcome the additional heat on the object.
Our jeep radiators are too small in my opinion. If you notice the other jeeps in cooler climates most of them don't have these heating problems until something fails on the cooling system.
If you have a infrared heat gun test the pavement depending on the temps that day it is anywhere from 120F to 150F. If you are sitting in bumper to bumper traffic or parked idling....that is so much more heat to remove and that is why I suspect I do not overheat during trails because the dirt doesn't hold onto the heat.
Basically more airflow, bigger radiator, more cooling capacity is needed for our problems.
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 4,968
Likes: 0
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
I have the same problems as stated above. i have my fan relay grounded so that its on witht he key on and runs at all times. even with this going up canyons or a/c on it gets to 220 ish *.... new 3 core solid radiator, water pump. fan, clutch, coolant, t/stat everything is new and clean with motor rebuild.... but its always ran this hot in the 4 years ive owned it, I want to bring it down to 210 but unsure as to what would actually help....
My jeep is finally fixed now i need to buy some tires in the near future.
The torture test was just complete not too long ago.
Driving 30 miles freeway temps were 205F via scan tool.
Torture test sitting in pavement with Ac on full blast. Pavement temps 147F, outside temps 105F and max heat before stable is 228-230F. Scan tool reads 221F. That is sitting in a parking lot with no airflow. I am confidence it is fixed but i need to replace my radiator hoses.
The torture test was just complete not too long ago.
Driving 30 miles freeway temps were 205F via scan tool.
Torture test sitting in pavement with Ac on full blast. Pavement temps 147F, outside temps 105F and max heat before stable is 228-230F. Scan tool reads 221F. That is sitting in a parking lot with no airflow. I am confidence it is fixed but i need to replace my radiator hoses.
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 45
Likes: 0
From: Tampa, FL.
Year: 2004 4WD
Model: Grand Cherokee (WJ)
Engine: 4.0 All Factory
112 Degrees, you got to have that AC.
Sounds like you have done everything and if you are getting positive results without the thermostat you may want to try cutting the legs off an old one and stick the remainig donut looking peice back in and see if it improves even more?
The theory that if you slow the flow down of the hot water, it will spend more time in the radiator, the only place where it's being cooled.
Also, I saw a post were a few guys have vented the hot air trapped under the hood.
Sounds like you have done everything and if you are getting positive results without the thermostat you may want to try cutting the legs off an old one and stick the remainig donut looking peice back in and see if it improves even more?
The theory that if you slow the flow down of the hot water, it will spend more time in the radiator, the only place where it's being cooled.
Also, I saw a post were a few guys have vented the hot air trapped under the hood.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 72
Likes: 0
From: Queen Creek, AZ
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Got it figured out!
I started thinking the worst (cracked head) and went to a local shop and had them do some tests...everything was negative so I assumed the head was ok. my next thought was plugged catalytic converter...so off to the exhaust shop.
The cat was fine but the muffler showed some signs of wear...so I replaced it (nothing special...just a muffler). I saw some improvement (about 5-7 degrees cooler).
The only thing left was air flow...remember I have new water pump and radiator with a good clean 50/50 mix. So, I decided to ditch the triple electric fan set-up and return the fans to stock. Fortunately, I still had my original mechanical fan and new Grand Cherokee fan clutch along with the fan shroud. I purchased a replacement stock electric fan from NAPA ($94) and re-installed the stock set-up.
I did a test run today and drove for about 45 minutes with mixed driving (slow around town and highway). At the time of the test run, it was about 108 outside...so conditions were perfect. Engine temps stayed at or just below 210...electric fan came on when it should and everything seemed to work perfectly. I even let it sit and idle for about 15 minutes and it stayed rock solid at 210.
So...the morale of the story...the Dirtbound Triple Electric Fan system works well with ambient temps around 100 or below...anything over that and it just doesn't move enough air. Knowing what I know now...I would NEVER...NEVER...NEVER go to another fan set-up. The stock fans just put out an incredibly large amount of air. Lesson Learned!
I started thinking the worst (cracked head) and went to a local shop and had them do some tests...everything was negative so I assumed the head was ok. my next thought was plugged catalytic converter...so off to the exhaust shop.
The cat was fine but the muffler showed some signs of wear...so I replaced it (nothing special...just a muffler). I saw some improvement (about 5-7 degrees cooler).
The only thing left was air flow...remember I have new water pump and radiator with a good clean 50/50 mix. So, I decided to ditch the triple electric fan set-up and return the fans to stock. Fortunately, I still had my original mechanical fan and new Grand Cherokee fan clutch along with the fan shroud. I purchased a replacement stock electric fan from NAPA ($94) and re-installed the stock set-up.
I did a test run today and drove for about 45 minutes with mixed driving (slow around town and highway). At the time of the test run, it was about 108 outside...so conditions were perfect. Engine temps stayed at or just below 210...electric fan came on when it should and everything seemed to work perfectly. I even let it sit and idle for about 15 minutes and it stayed rock solid at 210.
So...the morale of the story...the Dirtbound Triple Electric Fan system works well with ambient temps around 100 or below...anything over that and it just doesn't move enough air. Knowing what I know now...I would NEVER...NEVER...NEVER go to another fan set-up. The stock fans just put out an incredibly large amount of air. Lesson Learned!


