Liquid copper? Not a good idea. Find the root of the problem, don't "plug" the symptom. Was the fan clutch mentioned?

 

First....find a new mechanic. That is never a solution. Second...get yourself a free pressure tester from autozone and do this yourself. A functioning cooling system doesn't lose pressure. It holds steady. Test it yourself.

Pump the tester up to operating pressure. Watch for leaks and dripping. Once it goes down 3psi...pump it back up and look for leaks. Do this for half an hour if you have to. You'll find where it's leaking from.

If after 30-40 minutes of searching and you can't find a leak...it's either your heater core or internal. If you want to rule out your heater core, tie the intake and outtake tubes together and bypass it. If it holds pressure, your heater core is leaking. If it still leaks, you're problem is most likely internal. Hope it's a head gasket i lieu of the head itself.

Oh yea....tell your "mechanic" you want your money back for the computer replacement.

 

I watched him do the pressure test. The rate of decrease in pressure was extremely small.

The mechanic is a friend of ours so he was trying to save us money by trying this liquid copper. If it doesn't fix the issues then I'd move on to something else.
I was told another indicator of a leak in the heater core is if the windshield fogs up when the heater is switched on. That correct?

And the computer was having other issues as well. Randomly idling high. Throwing the wrong codes.

 

Been replaced.

 

Also there are no leaks anywhere we can find. So the heater core is the last resort.

And the mechanic who replaced the computer is a different mechanic altogether. Lol. It was an auto repair shop who did that.

 

thank you

 

Piggybacking off my thread. Tsk tsk. :P

 

So I'm posting here based on what someone else said in another thread. I was in the desert and after dealing with the tranny dumping all the fluid due to a crushed hose, the car wouldn't start for thirty minutes, then would only drive for a few miles before simply dying and pegging the temp gauge over, then repeating a couple times. While running, the gauge never read over 220 and the gauge on my radiator cap (while I know it's not entirely reliable, it did agree with the temp gauge) read around 200 to 220.

People said in the other thread that the engine dying sounds more like overheating issues rather than anything to do with the transmission. I can't even drive the car now until I figure out what's wrong. It'd be just my luck to have it die on a freeway.

 

Playing in the desert with a Jeep that has a history of overheating?


Hmmmmm.

 

I watched the gauge the entire time and I didn't stress it out. Was kind of a fluke thing that I busted that transmission line again.

 

Do you think you might have not busted the line if you weren't fixated on the temp gauge?

 

I would not use any stop leak personally. You'd be better off taking the head off have it checked at a machine shop that does that sort of work. Replace the gasket and be done with it.

 

I took it easy altogether. It's weird because it usually takes some massive articulation for the upper arm to even reach the transmission line. I'm just going to move the line slightly so there's zero chance of it happening again then dealing with the track bar later when I can just afford to do the entire lift correctly.

 

I should have probably listened to you guys? I only put half the bottle in and it seemed like the entire thing was running hotter than normal. Granted it was a hot day. I'm wondering if the viscosity was too high and gummed up some things. I don't know. The car is parked and luckily I have a backup for the time being. I'm going to do a cooling system flush.