DEVILSTOY

ive been on there but im not a registerd user on that site

96xj4x4

alright your jeep is sick i feel like i've seen it around

DEVILSTOY

thanks man , where are you from ? maybe you have

96xj4x4

manahawkin...but i ussually do most of my wheeling in the stafford forge, bass river state forest, and wharton. i still have alot to learn and explore i know

DEVILSTOY

im forever in wharton , i live in the atco area , i can take you anywhere you want back there ,we've been going down to mananitco ponds alot lately its in millville area and wow that place is a huge play ground , lots of hills and wash outs to climb thru , a bunch of trails and of course mud lol if you ever wanna head out let me know

96xj4x4

awesome bro i appreciate it, i'll PM you some time when gets somebody to make the trip with me

DEVILSTOY

ok cool no problem , my name is nick btw

94CountryXJ

I highly doubt RP destroyed his rear, most likely incorrectly installed gears. Considering royal purple is used in top fuel drag cars rear ends, and they take more abuse than any diff should ever have to.

xjtoys

run some mobil 1 with the lucas add. run the light stuff not the heavy lucas.

backhalfeds10

Go to this web site www.seafoamsales.com and buy a bottle of there engine treatment. I bought this at the auto parts store and folowed the directions you can either put it all in your gas tank or you can pull of a vacum line that is sucking and suck have the bottle into your intake. Then you shut off the jeep and let it sit for about 5 min and start it up again wow does it work mine had a bad hesitation and high idled when you started it and now all that is gone this product does the trick

96xj4x4

changing my diff fluid with RP today i'll let you know if i have any catastrophic failures.

whowey

I'm going to attempt to tie together this entire discussion with some info, ideas, and thoughts. Its going to be LONG and have multiple quoted posts. If anyone has any questions feel free to PM me or post the question here...

First..

The two main concerns with the regular RP blends don't necessarily trend over to their Racing or XPR blends. But at $14 a quart and up.. I can beat that price with an equivalent or superior product all day long....

The first concern is the low levels of Zinc and Phosphorous in RP's traditional oil blends. Which is what Austin is referring to in this post...

Older design engines like our 4.0l and the 2.5L both use flat tappet camshaft motors. Which means that the rocker arm rides on the end of the valve. This creates a BIG wear spot right where they make contact. Zinc, Molybdenum, and to a much lesser degree Phosphorous are the anti-wear elements in your oil that provide protection to help slow the wear at this critical point. For many years High-performance folks have used roller rocker arms to eliminate this wear/friction point. 99% of newer engines are using them now as a fuel milage increase. It is simply one more way manufacturers are trying to meet CAFE standards wear prevention is not really even considered in the equation for them. Many engine builders and older engine experts have established a minimum floor of 1000ppm of Zinc in oils for these motors.

You will often here the phrase ZDDP levels.. ZDDP or Zinc Dialkyl-Dithio-Phosphate is the additive used in most oils to provide the needed Zinc and Phosphorous levels. Zinc and Phosphorous are able to be added in other ways to oil, but ZDDP is the most economic form for the oil manufacturers.

When the EPA wanted a reduction in Phosphorous levels in exhaust emissions, the API created the API-SM specification. This specification for oils reduced the allowable amount of Phosphorous to 800ppm. The major problem for us is the fact that ZDDP adds Zinc and Phosphorous in almost equal amounts. So when they reduced the Phosphorous, they in effect reduced the Zinc. This is where our concerns come from.

On High-Mileage oils:
Some High Mileage oils are actually the older blends of oil that won't meet the API-SM specification. Mobil 1 High Mileage is actually the older regular Mobil 1 blend. It still contains the needed levels of Zinc and Phosphorous, but it is barely over the 1000ppm floor. If you choose this oil, make sure to maintain the directed drain intervals. The problem is that many high mileage oils are still API-SM blends, just with a heap of viscosity modifiers to keep them from thinning out too quickly. The added effect is that oil that stays thicker will not seep through crusty seals as quickly.

On the dangers of using synthetics:
This is where you are always going to have some serious debates. IF there are no leaking seals, then there is no reason not to switch a motor to synthetics. Synthetics do not cause your seals,gasket,etc. to leak. The existing seals were already worn out, but conventional oils left behind crud, dirt, sludge, etc. that effectively closed those leaks. Most synthetics carry a higher level of detergent additives and removes that stuff effectively causing the leak to appear. But there is no set mileage to decide whether or not synthetics are a good idea. If you have a higher milage motor and want to switch, just be ready to changes some gaskets and seals, but know the inside of your motor is getting cleaner.

On Lucas Oil stabilizer:

The problem with oil additives of any kind is that there is absolutely no control over what is in them, and in what amounts. Lucas oil stabilizer is little more than conventional petroleum base stock and a massive blast of viscosity modifiers. All it really does is keep your oil from thinning down as the engine warms up. If you really want thicker oil.. just move up a viscosity level or two. Some companies offer viscosities up to SAE 60.

On synthetics being "too good":

Different environments require different products. In automatic transmissions there have been issues with slipping when a transmission has had a steady diet of conventional fluids and someone wants to change over. New or rebuilt transmissions have not shown this problem. There have been some limited slip manufacturers that don't recommend synthetics to be used with their products. But that is an issue with their particular clutch materials. I strongly suspect as time progresses we will see those recommendations change.

I am wary of any manufacturer that concentrates on silly marketing phrases like "dry lube" rather than putting out a better product. In a differential, the viscosity of your oil is going to be the primary thing. A thicker fluid clings to the rotating parts better and lubricates everything better. Heat is always going to be your enemy in a differential, resist building heat and you don't need to dissipate as much.

DEVILSTOY

just speaking in general not really in a specific veichle , but im really big into motorcycles and some companies dont recomend synthetics at all and other dont recomend them in a brand new machine until an X amount of miles , the reason is ... when parts are new they need a proper break in period and a synthetic is to slick for the parts to get proper friction for a proper break in procedure,and i know people who have clutch slipage problems with synthetics

dbcox

Plus if your not getting your oil tested you have no idea what it is doing and cannot tell how good brand x oil is. I test my oil once a year or so in my daily driver and i change it every 25k miles or once a year. I usually hit the mileage in my daily driver

96xj4x4

thanks "whoywey" this thread desperately needed some expertise