Having some issues with this 98 Jeep Cheroke XJ 4.0L with aw4, looking for some guidance
The jeep was flooded over the hood with an engine full of water so I drained all the water out, cycled fresh oil through, changed diff fluids, changed power steering fluid, changed transmission fluid and coolant. It ran but had to have give it gas to keep it alive.
I then cleaned out the throttle body, changed the TPS IAC, new spark plugs, cap, and rotor.
This time it ran seemingly pretty well for a min or 2 then started to idle rough both while it was warming up and when at temp. It would start idling around 1000rpm, and would start dropping down to 600rpm and back up to 1000rpm, it would make the car shake a little, it seemed like it wanted to die.
However it wouldn't die, it would continue to warm up then eventually find 800rpm and would still shudder down to 500rpm and shake as it did.
I also noticed an unusual amount of smoke/steam coming from the tail pipe and figured it still has alot of moisture to burn off.
It sent code P0171 and I replaced the MAP sensor (with one from my WJ), put new sparkplug wires in and changed the oil again.
The next time I started it up it seemed to idle perfectly fine, I drove it to the gas station and back and all was good. I started it up the next day and it was fine for a short period of time (5-10mins) then start idling rough again.
Now when it starts she idles rough right away and is still sending a good amount of white smoke. I smelt the smoke and couldn't say it smells sweet, it smells like exhaust to me. I have noticed that the pavement where it is parked has soot built up where the exhaust blows out.
I got another P0171 and I checked sparkplugs 4/5 and both were covered in dry black soot.
There doesn't seem to be any loss of power, shifting problems, or overheating.
It's pretty safe to say that it's running rich but I don't know where to go from here and I don't want to start throwing parts at it. o2 sensors? Head gasket? Valves? Injectors? Any ideas?
The jeep was flooded over the hood with an engine full of water so I drained all the water out, cycled fresh oil through, changed diff fluids, changed power steering fluid, changed transmission fluid and coolant. It ran but had to have give it gas to keep it alive.
I then cleaned out the throttle body, changed the TPS IAC, new spark plugs, cap, and rotor.
This time it ran seemingly pretty well for a min or 2 then started to idle rough both while it was warming up and when at temp. It would start idling around 1000rpm, and would start dropping down to 600rpm and back up to 1000rpm, it would make the car shake a little, it seemed like it wanted to die.
However it wouldn't die, it would continue to warm up then eventually find 800rpm and would still shudder down to 500rpm and shake as it did.
I also noticed an unusual amount of smoke/steam coming from the tail pipe and figured it still has alot of moisture to burn off.
It sent code P0171 and I replaced the MAP sensor (with one from my WJ), put new sparkplug wires in and changed the oil again.
The next time I started it up it seemed to idle perfectly fine, I drove it to the gas station and back and all was good. I started it up the next day and it was fine for a short period of time (5-10mins) then start idling rough again.
Now when it starts she idles rough right away and is still sending a good amount of white smoke. I smelt the smoke and couldn't say it smells sweet, it smells like exhaust to me. I have noticed that the pavement where it is parked has soot built up where the exhaust blows out.
I got another P0171 and I checked sparkplugs 4/5 and both were covered in dry black soot.
There doesn't seem to be any loss of power, shifting problems, or overheating.
It's pretty safe to say that it's running rich but I don't know where to go from here and I don't want to start throwing parts at it. o2 sensors? Head gasket? Valves? Injectors? Any ideas?
Just to get a baseline was it running when it was submerged?
Water does not compress well, if it was running we may be getting into internal engine damage territory. If it wasn't, and no one tried to start it when it had water in it before taking the plugs out, different story.
Water does not compress well, if it was running we may be getting into internal engine damage territory. If it wasn't, and no one tried to start it when it had water in it before taking the plugs out, different story.
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Water does not compress well, if it was running we may be getting into internal engine damage territory. If it wasn't, and no one tried to start it when it had water in it before taking the plugs out, different story.
Running, I was driving on a flooded road (10-20kph) then steered into a rut under the water I couldn't see, which pulled me into a ditch. I tried to reverse out of it as I was sliding and before the hood was underwater. I stopped trying to accelerate then shortly after the engine died, didn't make any fuss it was almost like the impact of the ditch shut the engine off, gently. in fact, the way it landed, the airbox part of the hood wasn't submerged. It was only during the recovery when the first truck tried to pull me out it shifted the rear around enough to put the whole hood underwater. It sat like that for maybe 10 mins while another truck jumped in to pull me out. After that, it wasn't started until all the water was drained out.Originally Posted by exasemech
Just to get a baseline was it running when it was submerged?Water does not compress well, if it was running we may be getting into internal engine damage territory. If it wasn't, and no one tried to start it when it had water in it before taking the plugs out, different story.
If it were mine, just so I could sleep at night, I would check the compression. I would just like to be able to cross bent rods, holes in pistons off the list so I could move on to other things....like about every electrical connection.
Quickest simple check...unplug the upstream o2 sensors...this throws the engine into a pre-programed fuel air mix instead of relying on actual o2 data. Not the most efficient but the engine will run pretty damn good on it. If its smooths out then probably no engine damage but you might have damaged an o2 sensor or cracked the exh manifold and are sucking in air. If still rough then unlimited possibilities sadly
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Didn’t want to hijack but I got to know…Originally Posted by bluejeep2001
Quickest simple check...unplug the upstream o2 sensors...this throws the engine into a pre-programed fuel air mix instead of relying on actual o2 data. Not the most efficient but the engine will run pretty damn good on it. If its smooths out then probably no engine damage but you might have damaged an o2 sensor or cracked the exh manifold and are sucking in air. If still rough then unlimited possibilities sadly
Will this work on my 2001 California emission 4.0? Your statement leads to believe that when my O2 sensors give out I can just unplug them and let her eat. My rig is unregistered and off road only. I don’t care about gas mileage and just want a good running engine.