Question about the sway bars... what does it mean to have a "DQ'd" sway bar?????

 

I chucked my rear swaybar. No differents. I do run the front swaybar just for highway.

 

I run 33's on my 3" Zone Offroad kit with no front/rear sway bars and drive it everywhere. If you get a set of front springs with the proper spring rate it works fine. As far as the rear sway bar, even Jeep took them off on the late models with tow packages so they couldn't have been too necessary.
And I'm sure you have now seen why it worth it to spend a little extra and get a kit that includes everything. I paid less than $300 for mine and it came with shocks, long AAL's, U-Bolts, clamps and springs. It's been almost a year now and I have no sag at all.

 

Good Writeup OP, THanks !


I am in the process of installing a Iron ROCK Offroad AAL.
It's actually from Rough Country and is stamped with "6123" part number.

This might be what is used in Rough Country's 3" lift kit because Iron Rock's 3" Lift kit is using this very same full length (43") Add A Leaf.

I would like to have installed a set of full leaf packs but I wanted to try this more affordable approach first. Also, living in the Rust Belt here in the Northeast. Due to rust,My springs certainly aren't going anywhere too soon.

This became even more obvious after going through almost a gallon of PB Blaster AND Kroil to get my rear springs UBolts loose !

Today's challenge will be the spring centering bolt which is practically welded to the leaf !

I am going to try the breaker bar but if that doesn't do it then heating it with a propane torch is going to be my best option besides waiting weeks for the penetrating oil to work.

Good write up....

 

prolly means to run without any swaybars or the rear at least...thatd be my guess

 

Get a breaker bar and snap off the u-bolts and centering pins... you should not reuse either anyway. If you need a new centering pin... 5/16ths socket head cap screws fit just right and are commonly available in grade 8.