Ok, so a couple of questions. My mechanic has told me for over a year now that i need to change it and i still havent. I dont really drive my cherokee that much, maybe 5,000 miles a year. How much am i looking at only in parts? Do i only have to buy the cv axle? any answer or suggestions would really help!
Junior Member
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No you dont need to buy the cv axle. You can buy a normal one. Save your self the money.Originally Posted by Emarine88
Ok, so a couple of questions. My mechanic has told me for over a year now that i need to change it and i still havent. I dont really drive my cherokee that much, maybe 5,000 miles a year. How much am i looking at only in parts? Do i only have to buy the cv axle? any answer or suggestions would really help!
CF Veteran
In plenty of "cars" its normal to just swap the "half shaft", or axle when the CV joint goes. I just have a u-jiont, not allot tougher to change than a drive-line u joint. Idk if you might have something different...or your mechanic just is "not on the page?"
Maybe there IS something wrong with your axle?
Maybe there IS something wrong with your axle?
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What exactly do you mean by buying a normal one? Pardon for the noobness, my experience in car parts is still at an amateur level.Originally Posted by 1990xjnut
No you dont need to buy the cv axle. You can buy a normal one. Save your self the money.
ok, so based on this picutre, the part that is broken is that black squiggly plastic piece. It has torn from where it meets the wheel bearing. Based on that, what exactly do i need to fix and/or replace? I just want to make sure my mechanic isn't making me replace parts and waste money
CF Veteran
That is the much rarer CV or Constant Velocity joint type of axle.
And yes it does need that rubber cover to be in great shape without any tears in it. He is correct in telling you to get it fixed. The grease on the joint will become contaminated from the elements and fail when you probably need it most.
Most of us have the "Normal" Ujoint style. It looks just like the universal joint on your drive shafts. They do not need covers to keep them clean. They are also much stronger than CV joints.
ALL D30 axles can interchange with that style of axle.
Any way you look at it the hub bearing must come out. That is the blots holding it onto the steering knuckle the arrows are pointing at.
After the axle is removed from the axle housing you can either change it for the exposed Ujoint style or have your CV Joint "Boot" replaced if the joint has not suffered to much damage yet
And yes it does need that rubber cover to be in great shape without any tears in it. He is correct in telling you to get it fixed. The grease on the joint will become contaminated from the elements and fail when you probably need it most.
Most of us have the "Normal" Ujoint style. It looks just like the universal joint on your drive shafts. They do not need covers to keep them clean. They are also much stronger than CV joints.
ALL D30 axles can interchange with that style of axle.
Any way you look at it the hub bearing must come out. That is the blots holding it onto the steering knuckle the arrows are pointing at.
After the axle is removed from the axle housing you can either change it for the exposed Ujoint style or have your CV Joint "Boot" replaced if the joint has not suffered to much damage yet
Quote:
And yes it does need that rubber cover to be in great shape without any tears in it. He is correct in telling you to get it fixed. The grease on the joint will become contaminated from the elements and fail when you probably need it most.
Most of us have the "Normal" Ujoint style. It looks just like the universal joint on your drive shafts. They do not need covers to keep them clean. They are also much stronger than CV joints.
ALL D30 axles can interchange with that style of axle.
Any way you look at it the hub bearing must come out. That is the blots holding it onto the steering knuckle the arrows are pointing at.
After the axle is removed from the axle housing you can either change it for the exposed Ujoint style or have your CV Joint "Boot" replaced if the joint has not suffered to much damage yet
Originally Posted by Jamie57
That is the much rarer CV or Constant Velocity joint type of axle. And yes it does need that rubber cover to be in great shape without any tears in it. He is correct in telling you to get it fixed. The grease on the joint will become contaminated from the elements and fail when you probably need it most.
Most of us have the "Normal" Ujoint style. It looks just like the universal joint on your drive shafts. They do not need covers to keep them clean. They are also much stronger than CV joints.
ALL D30 axles can interchange with that style of axle.
Any way you look at it the hub bearing must come out. That is the blots holding it onto the steering knuckle the arrows are pointing at.
After the axle is removed from the axle housing you can either change it for the exposed Ujoint style or have your CV Joint "Boot" replaced if the joint has not suffered to much damage yet
thanks for all your insight, jamie. Could i swap the broken axle for this piece ( click the link below)? Will this resolve the problem? Is this the correct part that I would use to fix the problem? the price isn't bad. I'll probably end up paying more in labor since the whole wheel will have to be disengaged in order for the part to be swapped. If anyone else can help, please comment. thanks!
Here's the link below. AAP is having a sale and that axle is on sale.
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...lVehicle=false
CF Veteran
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Here's the link below. AAP is having a sale and that axle is on sale.
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...lVehicle=false
Your axle isn't broken and no that part will not swap into your Jeep. Give me a few more details on your jeep and I'll be able to find the parts for you. Need year model engine ABS Brakes?Originally Posted by Emarine88
thanks for all your insight, jamie. Could i swap the broken axle for this piece ( click the link below)? Will this resolve the problem? Is this the correct part that I would use to fix the problem? the price isn't bad. I'll probably end up paying more in labor since the whole wheel will have to be disengaged in order for the part to be swapped. If anyone else can help, please comment. thanks!Here's the link below. AAP is having a sale and that axle is on sale.
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...lVehicle=false
If you have a auto wreckers near you, you could get an axle off them pretty cheap. Then just put a new Ujoint in it. Never have to worry about a ripped CV boot ever again.
Do a google search on Jeep hub bearing replacement. It will show you everything you need to do to swap out a hub bearing. You need to do this just to get to the axle anyways and it will give you an idea of what is involved and the reason for the expense in labor. Or the way to do it if you want to tackle it yourself.
Quote:
If you have a auto wreckers near you, you could get an axle off them pretty cheap. Then just put a new Ujoint in it. Never have to worry about a ripped CV boot ever again.
Do a google search on Jeep hub bearing replacement. It will show you everything you need to do to swap out a hub bearing. You need to do this just to get to the axle anyways and it will give you an idea of what is involved and the reason for the expense in labor. Or the way to do it if you want to tackle it yourself.
Originally Posted by Jamie57
Your axle isn't broken and no that part will not swap into your Jeep. Give me a few more details on your jeep and I'll be able to find the parts for you. Need year model engine ABS Brakes?If you have a auto wreckers near you, you could get an axle off them pretty cheap. Then just put a new Ujoint in it. Never have to worry about a ripped CV boot ever again.
Do a google search on Jeep hub bearing replacement. It will show you everything you need to do to swap out a hub bearing. You need to do this just to get to the axle anyways and it will give you an idea of what is involved and the reason for the expense in labor. Or the way to do it if you want to tackle it yourself.
96 Cherokee sport 4.0L. It does have abs brakes
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If you have a auto wreckers near you, you could get an axle off them pretty cheap. Then just put a new Ujoint in it. Never have to worry about a ripped CV boot ever again.
Do a google search on Jeep hub bearing replacement. It will show you everything you need to do to swap out a hub bearing. You need to do this just to get to the axle anyways and it will give you an idea of what is involved and the reason for the expense in labor. Or the way to do it if you want to tackle it yourself.
Originally Posted by Jamie57
Your axle isn't broken and no that part will not swap into your Jeep. Give me a few more details on your jeep and I'll be able to find the parts for you. Need year model engine ABS Brakes?If you have a auto wreckers near you, you could get an axle off them pretty cheap. Then just put a new Ujoint in it. Never have to worry about a ripped CV boot ever again.
Do a google search on Jeep hub bearing replacement. It will show you everything you need to do to swap out a hub bearing. You need to do this just to get to the axle anyways and it will give you an idea of what is involved and the reason for the expense in labor. Or the way to do it if you want to tackle it yourself.
96 Cherokee sport 4.0L. It does have abs brakes
CF Veteran
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I'm only coming up with Grand Cherokee's or really early Cherokees having CV Joints. Is your front axle a Low Pinion axle? Where the driveshaft yoke goes into the differential is below the axle centre line? Or High pinion, Above the axle centre line?Originally Posted by Emarine88
96 Cherokee sport 4.0L. It does have abs brakes
Maybe a previous owner swapped in a LP Grand Cherokee axle or just the axle shaft itself. They do interchange.
CV Boot Ebay. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Jeep-Grand-C...-/111064936446
Complete CV Joint left front axle ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/1993-1998-Je...-/300682776759
That seems like a really good price for a complete axle shaft and stub!!
And here is a Right axle CV joint style. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Front-Right-Jeep-Grand-Cherokee-1993-1994-1995-1996-1997-1998-CV-Axle-Shaft-/190684567228?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c65af96bc&vxp=mtr
And here is the style most of us use. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1988-2000-Front-Left-Right-Jeep-CHEROKEE-CV-U-Joint-Drive-AXLE-shaft-4WD-PAIR-/170977973014?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A1996%7CModel%3ACherokee&hash=item27cf14d316&vxp=mtr
If you were strictly going on price the CV joint style really seems to be the winner!
However through a lot of experience most guys will tell you NOT to use them on heavy trails.
Seeing as you aren't the CV style is the way to go. At that price you might as well change out your Hub bearings at the same time as they will be all disconnected. Great piece of mind for another 50k miles!
Jamie, may the Cherokee gods thank you. Your advice
And support has really helped. It could be a possibility that my mechanic swapped it and put a grand Cherokee part I'm it, I'm not too sure. Would it be possible to just replace the cv boot? Will that resolve the problem? Or will I have the replace the cv joint
And support has really helped. It could be a possibility that my mechanic swapped it and put a grand Cherokee part I'm it, I'm not too sure. Would it be possible to just replace the cv boot? Will that resolve the problem? Or will I have the replace the cv joint
CF Veteran
I'm going to figure it this way. You don't drive it much and defiantly do not thrash if 4 wheeling.
It's $15 for a boot and $70 for an axle with a new everything. The labour costs are going to be the same!!
Actually if it was in my shop it would be less to replace the axle because I wouldn't be getting dirty taking off the old boot, cleaning then inspecting the joint and re-greasing it and installing a new boot AND then putting it all back together.
Now if money was tight and you were doing it yourself I'd put a new boot on. You would gain a lot in knowledge for next to no money.
It's $15 for a boot and $70 for an axle with a new everything. The labour costs are going to be the same!!
Actually if it was in my shop it would be less to replace the axle because I wouldn't be getting dirty taking off the old boot, cleaning then inspecting the joint and re-greasing it and installing a new boot AND then putting it all back together.
Now if money was tight and you were doing it yourself I'd put a new boot on. You would gain a lot in knowledge for next to no money.
CF Veteran
Don't no if these are avalible for your year but it pretty easy install..
CF Veteran
A bad CV joint might "snap, crackle, and pop". Sometimes accelerating while turning. (that would be in a front wheel drive car) My bad front U-joint would crackel in 4 WD turning. (on gravel ). If it's quiet, short of cleaning it well and re-greasing, I might cut the old boot, get as much, (Lithium?) grease in there as I could, and install the boot Freedgr shows. If it were to go later, then install the new axle. OR...removed from the Jeep cleaning it well might be a thought.
I installed one of those boots on something at some point. Waz swearing at those little screws, getting them started.
Great thread! Sound info Jamie.
I installed one of those boots on something at some point. Waz swearing at those little screws, getting them started.
Great thread! Sound info Jamie.