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Resurrecting the Dead....proud of myself, and OOPS x 2!

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Old Oct 17, 2010 | 08:29 PM
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Default Resurrecting the Dead....proud of myself, and OOPS x 2!

I posted another thread about ?transfer case? issues if anyone wants to throw in their $0.02 in that one!

I picked up the 1995 4 Dr. Cherokee Sport 178k miles, auto 4wd yesterday and had issues coming home (that lead to my getting it towed the rest of the way). The it had been sitting for 2 years (last inspection expired)...the guy who owned it lost his license. It had a frozen alternator and torn belt and no battery probably would still be sitting there if I hadn't shelled out the cash.

Wife's pissed off because it was a surprise (at $400, not much for her to complain about...)....getting it on the road quickly is imperative to her not so pissed off...

Now, it needs a good bit of work...and a lot of cleaning.

Today, I played with it some more....took the radiator cover off, and have it ready to come out (once I disconnect the Trans Cooler lines) and replace...the entire R side split open (hence the tow)...

Took the Water Pump out, Thermostat, and largest cooling hoses (to the Rad). I'll replace all of the above along with the radiator.

All that in less than 2 hours (for me that's pretty good)...I keep a 91 BMW 318is on the road as my daily driver, so do some work for it. The jeep is to replace a 98 Windstar...and in that vehicle, I think you have to remove the engine to get to the H2O pump...

So, as this is the tech section...a couple of questions...

First the Oops...two bolts (rear outside) snapped off in removing the front seats. How to replace (they snapped off level with the floor metal) or replace them with something (I took them out to scrub them down and remove the dirty carpeting and get access to the floor plates...they'll need welding)?

Second...what to get for the radiator. My factory radiator has a trans cooler (left side) and a "front part"...a separate radiator that looks like it's connected to the AC. Does the "front part" have to come out and be replaced? Want to keep this a relatively cheap project (keeps the wife off my back!), so cost is an issue.

And, finally...there's a leak (rusted portion) of the brake line leading from the Master Cylinder to the rear brakes (about where the rear passenger seat is)...I've done brake lines before (under protest!), and can probably bend/fit some generic lines to fit...however, is there anyone who stocks pre-bent (factory replacement) lines?

Thanks!!

AFARR.
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Old Oct 17, 2010 | 08:56 PM
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From: Broward County Fl.
Year: 1989 xj sport 2dr
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Engine: 12 hole bosch Injectors
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move the seat back one inch drill new holes install new bolts and washers that is the ac condensor leave it alone and chrylser might have the brake lines
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Old Oct 17, 2010 | 09:09 PM
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Originally Posted by freegdr
move the seat back one inch drill new holes install new bolts and washers that is the ac condensor leave it alone and chrylser might have the brake lines

I kind of figured that might be the case. I sprayed the connecting nuts/bolts on the top with oil (need some more PB Blaster) to remove them.

Figured on the moving the seat...although, I might be able to work it with the original holes, and re-drill only the hole where the bolt sheared off (or drill out the bolt itself and re-tap).

Have to peel the carpet (replace it as it's too dirty to salvage), and fix the rust holes (worse passenger side front/some in the drivers side front) and kill any more rust....

I'll check with Chrysler on the brake lines...can do the generic, but a pre-bent one is easier (sometimes)..

AFARR
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Old Oct 17, 2010 | 09:16 PM
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From: Broward County Fl.
Year: 1989 xj sport 2dr
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 12 hole bosch Injectors
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