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Replacing leaf springs tips & tricks?

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Old Dec 19, 2013 | 11:12 AM
  #61  
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If it's REALLY REALLY easy to turn you could try a reverse drill bit. Might catch before you dull it lol
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Old Dec 19, 2013 | 11:58 AM
  #62  
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Originally Posted by salad
If it's REALLY REALLY easy to turn you could try a reverse drill bit. Might catch before you dull it lol
I was thinking of doing this, but was thinking my inexperienced self should see what some more experienced people say lol thanks again to all for the help
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Old Dec 19, 2013 | 01:21 PM
  #63  
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This is what its looking like

Replacing leaf springs tips & tricks?-image-2044000760.jpg



Replacing leaf springs tips & tricks?-image-711059911.jpg
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Old Dec 19, 2013 | 03:14 PM
  #64  
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How did the cut portion of the bolt get IN to the hole?
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Old Dec 19, 2013 | 03:30 PM
  #65  
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Could you just thread it in all the way so it falls out into the frame rail?
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Old Dec 19, 2013 | 03:51 PM
  #66  
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Not sure if there's a hole behind it TBH, the mount is a piece of steel welded onto the frame rail, not part of the frame itself.
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Old Dec 19, 2013 | 04:49 PM
  #67  
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How about using a small Dremel tool to cut a slot in it and use a BF screwdriver, again assuming it is not too rusty and will turn easily.
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Old Dec 19, 2013 | 05:12 PM
  #68  
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I'd take a swag at a left-handed drill bit
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Old Dec 19, 2013 | 05:47 PM
  #69  
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I was thinking the left-handed drill bit would maybe do the trick, also it fell in there right when the cut went through the bolt needless to say I was not a happy camper
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Old Dec 20, 2013 | 05:19 AM
  #70  
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Originally Posted by ianpanderson
I was thinking the left-handed drill bit would maybe do the trick, also it fell in there right when the cut went through the bolt needless to say I was not a happy camper

perhaps I am missing something, but please explain something to me.

you cut the bolt on either side of the spring eye, and have removed the leaf spring, and now the only piece you have left is the threaded end of the bolt that is now recessed into the hole....

if it is threaded, it should not have fallen or slid back at all... I'm thinking it must have stripped the threads and the chance of it coming back out are slim... perhaps it can be pushed in to the rail?
BUT, then what do you do?
You can't drill it and tap it bigger, as the bolts aren't shouldered....

I think you may have to go in from the other side, or if possible, bottom, and after drilling, bolt the new one through the drilled nut and tighten it up to it...

or am I completely misunderstanding what has happened?
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Old Dec 20, 2013 | 07:26 AM
  #71  
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Originally Posted by nanuk
perhaps I am missing something, but please explain something to me.

you cut the bolt on either side of the spring eye, and have removed the leaf spring, and now the only piece you have left is the threaded end of the bolt that is now recessed into the hole....

if it is threaded, it should not have fallen or slid back at all... I'm thinking it must have stripped the threads and the chance of it coming back out are slim... perhaps it can be pushed in to the rail?
BUT, then what do you do?
You can't drill it and tap it bigger, as the bolts aren't shouldered....

I think you may have to go in from the other side, or if possible, bottom, and after drilling, bolt the new one through the drilled nut and tighten it up to it...

or am I completely misunderstanding what has happened?
Well, he's been working on this one bolt for days- I don't think he's in any hurry to finish the project. A situation like this for most of our community would be resolved within a couple hours, even with basic hand tools. It's hard to tell what's really going on here.
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Old Dec 20, 2013 | 10:10 AM
  #72  
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I'm not sure what I am looking at ... the threaded hole is part the leaf bracket or sub-frame?

I would punch or drill it out and use a through bolt and nut.

The 98 OE parts catalog shows replaceable parts for the front and rear leaf brackets, front and rear bolts and nuts.

For each side there are two bolts and nuts for the rear leaf bracket and one bolt and nut for the front bracket.


Front and rear brackets for leaf springs.

55001100 1 Right Front
55001101 1 Left Front
55001102 1 Right Rear
55001103 1 Left Rear

Using six bolts total ..

34202118 6 BOLT, Hex Flange Head, M14x2.0x120, Rear Spring Front and Rear, Mounting

And six nuts ..

NUT, Hex Flange Lock, M14z2 p/n - 11502814
4 Rear Spring Rear, Mounting
2 Rear Spring Front, Mounting
Attached Thumbnails Replacing leaf springs tips & tricks?-rearleafs1.jpg   Replacing leaf springs tips & tricks?-rearleafs2.jpg  

Last edited by Muddz; Dec 20, 2013 at 11:08 AM.
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Old Dec 20, 2013 | 11:08 AM
  #73  
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Originally Posted by nanuk
perhaps I am missing something, but please explain something to me. you cut the bolt on either side of the spring eye, and have removed the leaf spring, and now the only piece you have left is the threaded end of the bolt that is now recessed into the hole.... if it is threaded, it should not have fallen or slid back at all... I'm thinking it must have stripped the threads and the chance of it coming back out are slim... perhaps it can be pushed in to the rail? BUT, then what do you do? You can't drill it and tap it bigger, as the bolts aren't shouldered.... I think you may have to go in from the other side, or if possible, bottom, and after drilling, bolt the new one through the drilled nut and tighten it up to it... or am I completely misunderstanding what has happened?
Yeah basically I'm not very good at this stuff so I messed it up and I have to wait to work on it because of work and school and yes I'm inexperienced so I probably am over complicating this situation
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Old Dec 20, 2013 | 11:20 AM
  #74  
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Originally Posted by Muddz
I'm not sure what I am looking at ... the threaded hole is part the leaf bracket or sub-frame?

I would punch or drill it out and use a through bolt and nut.

The 98 OE parts catalog shows replaceable parts for the front and rear leaf brackets, front and rear bolts and nuts.

For each side there are two bolts and nuts for the rear leaf bracket and one bolt and nut for the front bracket.

Front and rear brackets for leaf springs.

55001100 1 Right Front
55001101 1 Left Front
55001102 1 Right Rear
55001103 1 Left Rear

Using six bolts total ..

34202118 6 BOLT, Hex Flange Head, M14x2.0x120, Rear Spring Front and Rear, Mounting

And six nuts ..

NUT, Hex Flange Lock, M14z2 p/n - 11502814
4 Rear Spring Rear, Mounting
2 Rear Spring Front, Mounting
Technically everything on the XJ is replaceable. The bracket and nuts are welded in. So is the frame, finding part numbers for those isn't very useful lol
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Old Dec 20, 2013 | 11:50 AM
  #75  
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Originally Posted by salad
Technically everything on the XJ is replaceable. The bracket and nuts are welded in. So is the frame, finding part numbers for those isn't very useful lol
Can't the welded nut can be done away with using a through bolt and separate nut?

or there is some sort of space constraint and a welded nut is used?

If the bracket is damaged it would need to be scarfed out and a new bracket welded on the subframe?

Last edited by Muddz; Dec 20, 2013 at 12:49 PM.
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