Replacing front axle U-joints
Quick question, I haven't been able to find an answer. Can I replace my front axle U-joints on my D30 without draining the differential, or do I have to drain it before I can remove the axle shafts? Last weekend I replaced the diff fluid front and rear, so I'm trying to figure out if I kinda screwed myself by doing that.
Thanks!
Scott
Thanks!
Scott
Member
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 100
Likes: 1
From: Bakersfield, CA
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Be careful when you put the axles back in. The tubes collect a lot of dirt so don't scrape the axle on the way in otherwise you might contaminate your gear oil.
Hmm... Any suggestions on how to slide them in without scraping the inside of the tube? I doubt that'll be tough at all on the short side, but it sounds like a real pain on the long side lol.
CF Veteran
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 1,508
Likes: 5
From: Oregon Coast
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
If you are really careful you can use the outer lip of the tube as a pivot to support the axle as you install it and keep the end out of the dirt.
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CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 7,874
Likes: 100
From: Northern Ontario, Canada
Year: 1990, 1999, 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
i rest my hand inside the c knuckle and slide the shaft in keeping it up.
i also use a wire brush to clean the splines prior to reinstalling them.
and be very careful when sliding them through the inner seal. it can tear very easily. don't force it in when you feel it come into contact with the seal, i will slightly line it up center when at this point.
i also use a wire brush to clean the splines prior to reinstalling them.
and be very careful when sliding them through the inner seal. it can tear very easily. don't force it in when you feel it come into contact with the seal, i will slightly line it up center when at this point.
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2013
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From: Tarpon Springs, FL / Denver, CO
Year: '98
Engine: 4.0 I6
I actually just did this to my rig. As everyone else said, just go slow and rest your hand on the knuckle to keep the axle shaft steady.
Use some antisieze on the wheel-hub surface where it seats in the knuckle -- they will come out alot easier the next time you need them to.
Use some antisieze on the wheel-hub surface where it seats in the knuckle -- they will come out alot easier the next time you need them to.
Member
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 100
Likes: 1
From: Bakersfield, CA
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Your other option is to drain the front after cleaning the outside of the axle really well and reusing the fluid. As long as you don't contaminate the fluid it's reusable.
I highly recommend investing in a lube locker gasket next time you do your different fluid. That way you don't have to mess with rtv sealant again and they are reusable gaskets. I have them front and rear and love them.
http://www.4wheelparts.com/Drivetrai...pn=LULLLR-D030
I highly recommend investing in a lube locker gasket next time you do your different fluid. That way you don't have to mess with rtv sealant again and they are reusable gaskets. I have them front and rear and love them.
http://www.4wheelparts.com/Drivetrai...pn=LULLLR-D030
Last edited by InitialForce; Aug 3, 2015 at 08:53 PM.
Sincere apologies for the cruddy photo quality!
Wow, thanks for all the advice folks! I'll probably try a bit of a combination of everything to give myself the best chances of not screwing things up. Worst case scenario, I'll do as mentioned above and drain the diff, trying not to contaminate the oil and re-use it.
Thanks again!
Thanks again!
for anyone looking on how to do this in the future i recommend just cutting all 4 ends of the t off and then you hammer through the caps alot easier if you are stuck and with this method you dont have to deal with the clip either.
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