Tony_SS

The story goes, I bought this with a slight knock. All vitals were fine. One day I dropped the hammer and it blew, so this is me replacing the engine. I might need some help along the way too, and maybe this will also help others.

Here is the subject: 2000 XJ. 155k miles.


Looks nice, too bad a rod formed an escape route.


Makin' progress


Pretty much ready to pull the block (The battery tray and air box make GREAT tool holders!)


New casting from J&C enterprises.


New short block from a local engine builder: Shreves


Here's a good place to store all the stuff to put back on (its a lot more full now)


The front seat is housing all the new parts


Rock Auto magnet I get with the parts


My side work station


It's pretty cramped in here. 16" Moab's waiting to go on.


Some goon who thinks he knows what he's doing


Piston remains


This was all in my oil pan



Do you think I should get a new oil pan with all that metal that was in it, or just clean it out really good?

Feel free to offer any other advice as I pull the engine. I think I need to support the transmission with a jack or strap.

Also, since the head is off, I should be able to get to those E12's. I haven't tried yet.

motoo344

Jeep looks pretty clean which I am sure makes things a lot easier. I see no real reason to get a new pan unless its destroyed. As long as there aren't metal shavings everywhere it shouldn't be an issue.

cherokeelaredo'90

When I pulled my old motor I loosened up the transmission and took the motor mounts out so I could drop the whole thing down a little. It helped with getting a wrench on there since before I wasn't able to twist the wrench at all before I hit the firewall. You might have it easier with the head off already.

Pigeon

is that a rod cap bolt bent to a 45* angle!??!

Thanks for sharing .

playbass

You got the good rock auto sticker, I've got a refrigerator full of oldsmobiles...

Real clean XJ too!

SilverHaze

Are you doing all of that work and not stroking it?

Radi

That piston isn't so bad, a little JB weld.....

Cherockee

Just for reference how much money do you have wrapped up in this repair, including parts?

DFlintstone

X2^ what's the big deal? So it sounds a little rough.

I'm no help except be prepared for some pretty ignorant/cruel engineering. There might be times to walk away, and come back later.

Tony_SS

I'm looking in the pan and it's like glitter... I'm going to get a new one. $67. I'm not doing all this to get fine metal back into a new engine.

With the head off, I should be able to get to them. I havent tried yet, but there appears to be some room to work now. If not, I'll pull the mounts and drop the engine down.

Yeah! Can you believe that? Ha

I don't need a stroker.. I just want to get this thing back on the road so I can lift it and have some fun.

$1700 short block (tax in there + no core )
$420 new head
$200 parts so far (I expect to spend another $300)
$100 fluids + misc

So hopefully I can do this for less than $2800 when its all said and done. I could have got a junk yard engine but even they were wanting $1100 for a long block with 100k+ miles.... so why go through all the trouble for that?

It hasn't been all too bad. The monster bolts to hold the inspection cover on were a bit ridiculous LOL. Put with the oil pan off, I can get to the flywheel bolt a LOT easier at least.

94JeepCherokeeMan

Looks like fun!

84zmyfavorite

Hilarious, My Gold(Desert Sand) 2000 has the same thing goin, All filled up with her engine parts. Her engine block is actually in my 84, as I just picked that up from the machine shop this morning with her new cam bearings. My 2000s 213,??? mile 4.0 didnt throw a rod though, just was driven for who knows how long with severly Cracked 0331 head that dumped Tons of coolant, then later I think just straight water into the sump which Fried, I mean Fried the cam bearings. Everything else Is in Better condition than it should be. The crosshatching is still present on all 6 cylinder walls. Ball Hone job, New standard size Moly rings, new lifters, new oil pump, maby new timing chain and gears(though not worn much), and the Big Item replacement,...a 92(7120) cylinder head that has over 30 hours of porting. This is the "Current" Plan...

Hayden98XJ

Yeah those bolts suck. I had the head off mounts off and had the transmission angled a bit and still couldn't get at them. We ended up disassembling the shift housing and using several extensions to finally get them out.

00exjay

When I had to take out the e Torx bolts I had LONG extensions and a wobble and did it from under neith as a buddy guided it from above. Also heard a shorty wrench can do it

Tony_SS

I forgot to update, in order to get the oil pan off, I had to remove the front steering stabilizer and raise the body up a couple inches (since I don't have a lift) and I was able to drop the pan.

Also, I will update how I removed the e12 bolts. Thanks for the suggestions so far.